How do YOU restring your guitar?

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RolandRoland Frets: 8713
I've always done it the Martin way on both acoustics and electrics: pass the end through the post hole, half a turn backwards, hook it under the string, tune up to lock in place and cut off the excess.

This is morning I came to restring a Taylor, which hasn't been restrung since it left the factory, and found that they do it differently: cut to length, put the end in the post hole, and wind it around two or three times. 

The advantage of the Martin method is that you don't have lots of turns around the post wherein tension losses can occur. With the Taylor method you do have turns, and they lower point at which the string leaves the post, increasing the nut break angle.

Which method do you prefer, or do you do something different?
Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72380
    I use the Martin method. In my opinion it's the best - it's better for tuning stability than any other way except locking tuners, and once you get the hang of it it's actually the quickest too.

    The only time the break angle becomes an issue is on Fender-type guitars on the G string if there's no second string tree - but these often have slotted posts so you can't use the Martin method anyway. On those I vary the amount of wrap in order to get enough break angle - except for the top two strings, where I do a variation of the Martin method by taking the string back around the post the wrong way for half a turn, then across the slot.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • NelsonPNelsonP Frets: 3395
    I use the Taylor method for both electric and acoustic. I had no idea it was called that though. 
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  • HoofHoof Frets: 491
    The Martin method. In regards to the Taylor method; increasing the break angle across the nut isn't neccesarily a good thing. You wouldn't want to increase it on a Gibson, for instance as the break angle is a bit much anyway and the extra pressure/friction at the nut can lead to tuning issues, especially if the nut is anything less than perfect.
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  • stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 27048
    Martin for me too. I actually learnt it from a little printed instruction thing that came with a Gibson explorer.

    Ive done it that way every string change for 14 years now. The only exception is with locking tuners or Fender split posts. 
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
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  • ElectroDanElectroDan Frets: 554
    i pull the string through then do up the locking nut!  :)
    When I was doing non-locking guitars in the shop, I used Mark Arnquists Technique.
    I'd pull the string through.. measure 3 fingers worth hanging out the other side.. then pinch that with my left hand and push the excess back to the post.
    The first wind of the string would go arond the post ABOVE the string and all others would add UNDERNEATH. Don't forget to stretch a little and retune.
    The guy is on youtube.
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30291
    Martin method.
    Can't remember the last time I had any tuning problems unless it was down to a badly cut nut or crappy tuners.
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  • bingefellerbingefeller Frets: 5723
    Martin method.  
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  • Jack_Jack_ Frets: 3175
    I have my butler do it, restringing is for peasants.
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  • martmart Frets: 5205
    edited June 2017
    Jack_ said:
    I have my butler do it, restringing is for peasants.
    So how do you re-string your pheasants?
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  • DiscoStuDiscoStu Frets: 5514
    Martin method. I haven't heard it referred to it as that until now, I got the technique from an old magazine, probably Guitarist.
    It needs less windings and gives greater tuning stability as the strings can't slip round the post.
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8713
    mart said:
    Jack_ said:
    I have my butler do it, restringing is for peasants.
    So how do you re-string your pheasants?
    By the feet, and hang them for up to two weeks depending on ambient temperature. I caught one eating my cabbages yesterday.
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • GuitarZeroGuitarZero Frets: 254
    edited June 2017
    I use the Bill Baker method. Tuning is always solid with neat winds around the post and no faffing about with wrapping the strings over etc.


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  • LegionreturnsLegionreturns Frets: 7965
    I'm a noob, so I do it whichever way it turns out, using trial and error. (Emphasis error) ...until I've got around to actually watching someone good do it up close and personal I think that's my lot in life!

    My Trading Feedback    |    You Bring The Band

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  • MoltisantiMoltisanti Frets: 1133
    Mike Hickey method:


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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8713
    NelsonP said:
    I use the Taylor method for both electric and acoustic. I had no idea it was called that though. 
    I don't think it is. It's the method that Taylor use.


    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • AlvinAlvin Frets: 416
      I have been unknowingly using The Martin Method  for years .
       I thought it was something original i had come up with  .
       I have seen loads of  restringing guides in mags but never seen it shown  this way  , it is a great and easy way of self locking a string. 
      Still think it should be called The Alvin Method .
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  • cruxiformcruxiform Frets: 2556
    edited June 2017
    I use the Bill Baker method. Tuning is always solid with neat winds around the post and no faffing about with wrapping the strings over etc.



    Me too. Works a treat.
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4724
    edited June 2017
    I have always used the method in the Taylor vid for both electric and acoustic, and it works perfectly. It's also the way Clapton & his techs restring - so if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me - and I've never had a string slippage/tuning issue on any of my guitars, ever. only slight difference is I cut the string after it's wound not before (except on my 69 Strat that has cross-head posts, and my PRS Cu24 and 611VFM that have locking machine-heads) I've never tried the up/over method but I'm sure it's a good method too - however, although I watched the vid a few times I still couldn't see clearly the second part of what he was doing.   
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • boogiemanboogieman Frets: 12375
    i pull the string through then do up the locking nut!  :)
    When I was doing non-locking guitars in the shop, I used Mark Arnquists Technique.
    I'd pull the string through.. measure 3 fingers worth hanging out the other side.. then pinch that with my left hand and push the excess back to the post.
    The first wind of the string would go arond the post ABOVE the string and all others would add UNDERNEATH. Don't forget to stretch a little and retune.
    The guy is on youtube.
    Wis'd. That's the way I've always done mine too, except on my Strat with split post tuners. 
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  • LestratcasterLestratcaster Frets: 1087
    I do the Martin method and making sure the string locks and all winds go underneath. And I do 3 strings off 3 on as well to keep the tension in the neck.
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