I'm a bit behind on some of my posts! I'll update this over the next few days but following the evolution of lightweight designs I've been tinkering around with over the past year or so, I was asked by a bassist friend, Neil. to build him a full-scale bass following the same concept. He has a shoulder issue and has had to give up one of his regular bands due to issues with a heavy bass and long gigs. He was interested in the concept of something a lot lighter on the shoulder than his American Standard Fender Jazz.
A reminder of my tinkerings, this was the progression up to that point. All are in the 5.75 to 6.75 lbs weight range:
L to R: Pete's multi-scale piccolo bass; my 6-string electric version of the same thing; sis-in-law's variation of my 6-string
Ignoring the headstock, this was the basic design draft I agreed with Neil:
Target spec is:
34" scale,maple neck and fretboard. Ebony block inlays. Thru neck
Target weight 6.5 - 7 lbs
Nordstrand Jazz pickups, master vol, blend, master tone
Poplar Burl top; swamp ash back
This is the top wood:
In real time, I've just started the finishing process - I'll do a summary catch up of some of the critical progress stages over the next couple of days for anyone interested in such things
Comments
The blocks for the fretboard was a bit of a challenge. I got a G&W block template:
Then rigged up a plywood base for my little drill press with a locating pin:
Then popped in a 1.5mm router bit and put the drill press to its fastest setting - still slow but just about fast enough!
After some very careful hand fitting of the sizes and the heights, managed to cut the ebony sheet and fit the blocks:
One example is that I use the fancy and expensive top wood AS the routing template. So I must stress again that this below is simply how I do it - new builders, please do NOT assume this is the way it should be done!!!!
Neck blank laminated with centre walnut strip. Cutaway for the top to slot in, with neck angle incorporated, bookmatched top joined and cut/sanded to finished shape:
Rear swamp ash wings cut over-size and glued flush with the neck cut-out, using redwood veneer as the demarcation strips:
Lightening chambers and cable routes routed. The back will be significantly scooped out so very careful note is made of where the chambers are and how deep they are. The back of the 'f' hole is lined with redwood veneer to make the assembled chamber look physically deeper:
Another sheet of redwood veneer glued to the back of the top and the top glued on and rear wings routed to finished size using the top as the router trimmer bit template (I re-iterate - this is NOT the recommended method):
And that carve starts:
And continues. Now you can see why I needed to know EXACTLY where those chambers were and how deep...:
While the top was still flat, I cut out the pickup chambers. I hate using routers and only use on to tidy up the bottoms. For the main pickup carve, I drill the radii:
Then hog out with a Forstner:
Then tidy up the sides with a chisel:
...and only now do I let a router anywhere near it - using a short bearing trimmer, fully captive in the chamber and not able to wreck the rest of the bass!!! (Did I say how much I hate routers ) :
If you remember, I had some real challenges with the fretboard of @impmann 's Alembic-esque electric and, since then, I've tried the alternative of radiusing, shaping, trimming and fretting the fretboard before gluing to the neck. I think it works a lot better (hope yours is still doing the biz, Tim, but any issues, let me know because I know now how best to replace it!).
And then the top could be carved and curved:
Next was carving the neck using templates taken off Neil's favourite playing bass. Every bass has its own feel but this approach usually gives the owner at least a familiarity of feel:
Next, a couple of wings and a slice of poplar for the headstock plate:
And the inevitable swifts - this time using NZ paua:
Another slice of poplar for the control chamber cover:
And some home-made knobs using the same woods:
Final playing weight is going to be between 6.25 and 6.5 lbs, depending on how much of the finish (Osmo polyx) is absorbed
The Osmo has had it's last coat last night and I've just got to level the frets and add the final finish to the fretboard and I can start assembling it all.
As always, thanks for looking
Andy
Love the top - really nice piece of wood that, and brilliant job as ever...
I'm really pleased there is a second, 'Tell me again....WHY do bass guitars have to be so, so heavy????' experimental build on the go
Thanks!
I've had some issues in the past with the gloss version of Polyx, but the satin version is super easy to use - real bedroom builder stuff - and produces a nice result quite quickly:
These things are always a compromise tho - it will be fascinating to see how it compares sound wise to a good solid body...
Here's a sneak preview - final playing weight 6lbs 6oz
Two more jobs to do - soldering the wires and fitting the strap buttons. However, took the advantage of a little bit of cloud (not often in the UK we say THAT!) to take the arty-farty shots - taking photos in full sunlight is not an easy thing to do!
Before those shots (and forgive the self-indulgence!), someone asked me why I've started scooping the back. Two reasons that can be seen in these two shots:
Anyway, enough of the technicals - here are the fancy shots:
As always, thanks for your kind words and encouragement - always very much appreciated
Andy