Help Please: Any Plumbers or Heating Engineers.

Bellycaster

Sorry for the delay @spark240 I had a gig last night. Thanks for offering your advice.

Re the part, I do not know the name of the part being replaced. If I rang or text the guy I doubt I'd get a response, seems he's just waiting for his fingers to heal.

FWIW, the part is located at the top right hand corner of a Worcester Boiler

The Boiler is Upstairs and I'd say it is almost directly above it but just a couple of feet to one side.

Having seen further evidence, I can say without doubt that all these things are linked. When I was washing pots yesterday afternoon the flow increased into the drum and this morning when only using the cold tap, that was the point at which water started to appear in the drum.

So, it seems using the hot or cold water at the Kitchen sink, which is next to the Washer, increases the flow or starts the flow into the drum. I'm starting to doubt that there is water coming into the washer machine until I use the water at the sink.

I've no evidence that the shower affects flow into the washer but it appears not.

How much water goes into the washer before it manifests itself in the drum?

Bellycaster

This does still suggest there is a fault on the washer though @spark240 as it should not let any water in unless it's supposed to. Then there is a question of when the washer part gets replaced and the water can't get it, will this cause a potentially damaging pressure build up elsewhere....ie: It'll look for somewhere else to escape?

Roll on the bloody day this guy replaces the part. I think he is very wrong not to respond to me, broken fingers or not, he could at least talk to me and try put my mind at rest, just be good to explain the situation to him.

spark240

Agree something is amiss at the washer anyway, but it seems the problem occurred since the new tap was fitted?...

I assume your pal had to isolate the H&C water somewhere to fit the tap...any link there ?

boogieman

Have you already paid the heating guy to fix the boiler? If he’s not responding to messages and you’ve already got the part I’d just get someone else in to sort it out, rather than waiting around for his fingers to heal. 

The solenoid valve in the machine is definitely faulty if it’s letting water past. I can’t see any other way water can get in. Either get the lid off the machine yourself and get one ordered or get an appliance engineer in to sort it out. Xmas is coming up rapidly and you’re going to screwed for weeks soon. 

Bellycaster

The Boiler man has the part @boogieman and the washer repair man will contact Monday. I probably have to wait for the boiler man as he has the part.

I'll ask my mate about the tap later @spark240 although he has changed plenty of taps before.

Cheers guys.

grungebob

Could it be that when your mate replaced the tap he fully wound out the mains isolator adding a touch more pressure to the system? I wouldn’t have thought it’d make much difference unless it was only cracked open previous. 
The boiler and washer are two separate issues but why the washer fills on a pressure drop I can’t understand. The solonoid should fail closed making line pressure irrelevant, also most newish washers have plastic valves that are more resistant to scale deposits so a head scratcher. 

For the boiler id be tempted to call manufacturer themselves, mines the same make and they came round next day £90 job done. 

Bellycaster

There are isolator valves under the sink @spark240 they were isolated before changing the tap fitting.

Bellycaster

The physics of it all is upside down @grungebob the washer still functions normally so I assume the solenoid works as it fills and shuts off during the cycle.

robgilmo

The solenoid works, the valve it opens and closes doesnt, they are usually one part combining both. Have you tried cleaning it? Take the feed off the back of the machine after isolating it via the blue valve and look in , there should be a gauze in there, remove that and see if there is anything behind it causing the valve not to shut properly. Those valves will handle the strongest mains pressure with ease, I doubt its a pressure problem,  if it were you would know through water hammer and stupidly strong tap pressure.

Bellycaster

I'll let the Washer Engineer do that @robgilmo I'll explain stuff to him and he'll examine it anyway. You're most likely correct re the valve, but ain't it weird that water flows into the drum more when the taps are on, you'd think it would be the other way round.

robgilmo

Is it a pumped system?

Bellycaster

As to whether it is pumped or unvented, I don't know @robgilmo I am a bit of a numpty with these things.

I do have some pics though if this helps.

On the Boiler pics, the old tide mark you can see is from when the manifold went about 3 years ago, that's fixed now obviously. The tide mark is nowt to do with this problem.

Pics:

https://i.imgur.com/MFnjTqK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AlZkKt1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Wt7n0Y4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KXpEkvi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7xAbU9C.jpg

And a pic of the washer for good measure

https://i.imgur.com/Md9oveo.jpg

.

Do you think that @Perdix might have a point with his post earlier in the thread?

Ta.

Almach

Looks like the grey pipe to right of pix 4 & 4 is below the level of the water in the U-Bend. When water goes down the sink it also goes back to the washing machine via the grey pipe. Maybe turning the white bit it is connected to so it is vertical will raise it high enough.

Bellycaster

Appreciate your input @Almach but that pipe has always been in that position. It was never a problem before so I doubt it is now. The pipes aren't blocked under the sink either, all water is draining away fine.

I think @Perdix has likely found the answer in that the valve on the washer inlet might actually release slightly when the water pressure drops. Although this doesn't explain why the water does not flow into the washer drum whilst I'm having a shower, which uses a lot more water than washing the pots.

I'm as intrigued as anyone to find out the answer

Almach

Pour some vinegar or bleach down the plughole. See if your washing machine smells of bleach or vinegar when you open the door.

Almach

jesus h titty fucking christ did nobody listen to the physics teacher

boogieman

I’m guessing if the water was getting into the drum via the sink waste then the water would be soapy/dirty/smelly. OP has never mentioned that. He’s also already said several times it’s not water backing up from the drain-out pipe. 

hywelg

The washing machine solenoid valve will be like a torbeck cistern valve, where the water pressure holds the valve shut. Great until like a (plumber as it happens) mate of mine, going away for a long spell decides to turn off the water. Only the main stop cock let's a dribble by, the torbeck in the heating header tank doesn't seal so the dribble overflows into the airing cupboard. Disaster......

Bellycaster

The water is in the drum before I pour the water down the sink @Almach plus the water in the drum is cold as opposed to warm/hot.

Just to be 100% later, I'll fill the bowl so water doesn't run down the sink and I'm sure I'll still see water in the drum.

That sounded like a nightmare for your mate @hywelg and you and @Perdix I think have the likely explanation.

Bellycaster

After my little experiment, as I expected, the water crept into the drum when using the kitchen taps. I made sure no water went down the sink and only went into the bowl.

When I poured a full bowl of water down the sink, the water level in the drum remained the same.

Only thing confusing me now is that no water creeps into the drum whilst using the Bathroom shower or bathroom sink? The pressure in the system still has to drop and that's a lot of water usage?