How to improve a Bigsby B50/B70, and make it feel more like a B6.

TheMarlin

This is a great fix for anyone with a Bigsby B5/B50 B7/B70, or any other 'tension bar' Bigsby.   

I'm a big Gretsch fan. I have some nice Pro Line models, but also have some Electromatics - my favourite of which are the Corvettes.

Unfortunately, these guitars come equipped with the dreaded Bigsby B50.  This is my least favourite Bigsby (and I LOVE Bigsbys); It's stiff in operation, and causes severe tuning problems.  This is caused by the break angle over the bridge, under the tension bar, and to the back of the Bigsby.  In addition, the tension bar has plastic bearing, and under the pressure of those string, it doesn't move, and severely restricts the movement of the strings.  This is the source of many a tuning problem (that, and a badly cut nut).

The good news is that I have found a solution to all these woes, and my B50 Bigsby is now a joy to use.  Light, sensitive, enthusiastic, and all with very stable tuning.  How it was done?   You use a Bigsby Tuning Stabilizer!!

I'll talk you through it.

The guitar awaiting surgery is my beloved White Corvette, which has already had extensive modifications. I love everything about this guitar, except for the Bigsby B50. 

So, here is my Corvettes, back on the operating table once again. 

I always do these jobs in my conservatory, as it's got good light all day long. 

Strings off, here is the Tuning Stabiliser waiting to go on. It consists of a top quality replacement tension bar with proper bearings. It rolls smoothly, where as the standard bar, with it's crappy plastic bearing, refuses to move under tension. Also included is a new tension clip to replace the PITA circlip.

Note, I stupidly had this part in my parts bin for over a year, this is the first version of the Tuning Stabiliser, which uses the existing bar on which the tension bar sits. The newer unit (version three) does away with that, removing all (and any) difficulty with fitting the replacement part. See the video at the end to see how Version 3 Of the Bigsby Tuning Stabilizer fits.

So, here is the B50 with the bar that runs through the tension bar, partially removed. Don't be a cheapskate like me, and buy set of circlip pliers. I used two small screwdrivers to remove the circlip - see the fresh scratches on the B50. I'm an ass.

note, the crappy plastic bearings on the stock tension bar.

More to follow:....stay tuned.....

TheMarlin

OK, so tension bar bearing removed, this just leaves the inner bar. This being version 1 of the B50 Tuning Stabilizer, my 11 gauge strings are a tight fit between the bar, and the replacement roller bar. So, the solution is to mark where the strings pass on this bar, and grind out some of the material (with a dremel, and a drill).

Again, note, Version 3 of this Tuning Stabiliser completely removed the following steps. I'll share a video at the end to show the improvements in the updated version.

The centre bar (which runs through the tension bar) is now marked up. I've set it in my drill, and fired up my neighbours Dremmel (cool bit of kit!, gotta get one of these), and in about two mins, ground down the tension bar to allow safe passage of stings under the new tension bar.

A Dremmel action shot for you

!

Next step, fit the Bigsby Tuning Stabilizer onto the modded centre bar.

and fit the tension clip (replacing the horrid circlip). Note, because of pot placement, it's easiest to a fit the centre bar from the opposite side from which it was originally removed.

(yet more to follow)....

TheMarlin

While the strings are off, I thought I'd do another job. I hadn't put enough neoprene sponge under the pickups, so height adjustment was not up to par. So, i cut up some more neoprene sheeting (5mm) and added a good layer.

Another mod I'd been planning to do.... 1 inch Bigsby spring. I find the B50 arm always gets in the way of my picking - it sits too low. The bigger spring gets the arm up and out of the way. Love the results.

Next step, get the strings back on. I use the 'needle nose pliers and capo technique'. Note, strings sit over the (now modded) centre bar, and below the tension bar. Sounds like there are too many 'bars', but the photos should help explain.

TheMarlin

First (low E) string on and tuned, using GHS Nickle Rockers which I picked up in the USA for around £2.80 a set - bought a few sets, was too good a deal not too! I haven't tried these yet.

Note, good clearance.

Handy tip for stringing a Bigsby:  This shows how the capo is used when restringing (removes requirement for a third arm!). Tuners are Sperzel lockers, and I keep my string ends nice and trim - as you will see at the end.... 

Strings on, wow, only slight tension on the stings. Heck of a difference in break angle behind the bridge. Very impressed.

TheMarlin

Better view:

And cleaned up:......

Conclusion to follow:....

TheMarlin

Conclusion:

This is an amazing the device. The string tension is a heck of a lot less than it was. And, the longer spring raised the arm out of the way. The improvement in function (of the Bigsby B50) is amazing. Rather than acting like a stiff detuning device, it now operates and feel like a proper Bigsby. It's got more of the B6 about it than a stock B50. Masses of arm moment, silky smooth operation, and much greater tuning stability. I'm hugely impressed. I just can't believe that I was such an arse, that I had this sitting in my parts bin for a year, while all the time bitching about the B50 at any given oportunity. 

Anyone who has a Gretsch with a B50 or B70, need one of these. It'll transform your guitar. Now, I need to get another to fit to my G Love Corvette. 

Here is the third version of the Bigsby B50 Tuning Stabilizer. It bypasses the need to modify the centre bar to fit heavier guage strings. Genius!

Hope this helps any of you who are struggling with a 'tension bar' Bigsby (Gretsch Electromatics, Epiphone Wildkats etc etc)

Marlin

ICBM

Presumably there is not enough break angle at the bridge to simply bypass the tension bar? I've never particularly liked these Bigsbys either - I've often found it's possible to not use the bar at all and just run the strings direct from the spring bar to the bridge, but that's on archtop guitars where the Bigbsy sits a bit lower relative to the bridge.

Just a minor word of warning... if you use a capo like that with the strings slack, you will mark the fingerboard.

Personally I can't really see why you need to faff about with pliers and capos anyway, I just kink the ball end round my thumbnail and learnt how to hold the string with both hands so I can keep tension on it at all times. I can restring a Bigsby almost as quick as any other guitar. No idea why everyone finds it such a hassle!

I've also had a lot of success replacing the springs with cut-down air rifle springs of the right diameter - they're stiffer than the Bigsby spring as well as any length you like.

TheMarlin

My eyesight is a bit pants these days - so the capo technique helps me locate everything in poor light.  It's nice and easy.  My fretboard hasn't been market yet, all good here.

Alas, no, on these guitars (and a lot of other models) you can't just bypass the tension bar, the strings just flop over the bridge like wet spaghetti.  You do need some kind of string tension/break-angle over the bridge.  The stock unit just add too much tension and causes tuning issues.   After the mod, it's a completely different beast.  Really easy to use, very responsive, and very stable.  I like it as much as a B6, which is high praise indeed!

The one inch spring worked great for me,  It just raised the arm enough to get it out of the way of my picking hand, but place it where I need it to be.  I think I'll put a Chet Atkins arm on the B50......

Cheers

Marlin 

paulnb57

Interesting write up - thanks!

TheMarlin

I mostly play gretsches (which usually have Bigsbys), but I know a lot of people use the B50 and B70....such as the Epiphone Wildkat players.  And, they'll have the same issues that I had.  I just thought it would be helpful to others, given that I was so impressed with the results.

Marlin

mart

So where do you get this kit from? Google wasn't very helpful.

TheMarlin

One of the chaps over at Gretsch Talk forum makes them by hand.  The new version 3 is super easy to fit - no drill required

It's best to email him, he's not get his website up and running yet.  His email is: bricksbiggsfix@gmail.com

I think he's made around 100 so far.  All happy customers.

Marlin

ICBM

Definitely a clever solution. In the past, as well as bypassing the bar on those which do have enough of an angle, I've tried removing the roller and just using the bar (which gives a small reduction in angle, but not much) and raising the front of the Bigsby on spacers (which works but looks unslightly) - you're completely right that there's just too much extra pressure on the bridge otherwise.

The only one I really got to work perfectly without altering the Bigsby was the factory-original Bigsby Tele I had, which has the Jazzmaster-type rocking bridge so it eliminates the friction that way.

TheMarlin

@ICBM

You're right.  Also, the Squier Vintage Modified La Cabronita somehow manages to get the B50 to work extremely well without excess pressure over the bridge.   These are fab guitars, right out of the box

Marlin

ICBM

TheMarlin said:

Also, the Squier Vintage Modified La Cabronita somehow manages to get the B50 to work extremely well without excess pressure over the bridge.   These are fab guitars, right out of the box

Yes, exactly - that has the Jazzmaster-type bridge.

Bigsby Teles also have the advantage of the lowest neck angle and bridge height of any guitar with one, so the angle over the bridge is inherently less to begin with.

TheMarlin

My favourite B50 on a tele is the 'hacksaw' model.

This is popular with the guys in California who are into old Bigsby style pickups (T.K Smith makes the best modern versions). They cut out the tension bar on the B5/B50, and grind down/polish the cut ends.  They then mount the butchered Bigsby as far back on the body as they can, and use a longer arm.   The results are supposed to be excellent.   I'm having one build with Charlie Christian pickups in the new year.  Will report back then

Marlin

ICBM

That's really cool. You've given me an idea...

The problem I have is that the one I want doesn't exist - I need a super-short B3, about half the length, to go on my Rickenbacker. There's just not enough distance between the bridge and the rim to get a normal one on, and I don't want to drill the top for a B5, even cut down like that. Vibramate don't make a bracket either.

But one of these shortened in the same way might work -

http://www.pmtonline.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1000x1000/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/t/1/t1_29_31/pmtonline-fender-st96948-31.jpg

It looks like the two screw holes might be inside the footprint of the original R tailpiece too.

Although it's a hell of a lot of money to pay for something that you'd cut off half of :-O.

TheMarlin

Funny you should show the Bigsby B16.   That's another one that get's the chop.   I believe it was TK Smitt buyh who first did it.

Here is a video of a TK Smith tele with butchered B16 and TK Smith 'Bigsby inspired' pickups. Wonderful woody tone.

The body is a one piece swamp ash, made for TK Smith by my favourite builder, Marc Rutters.  Marc Rutters and TK Smith make awesome teles.   I wouldn't buy a custom shop Fender tele, I'd spend my money with Marc Rutter and TK Smith instead

In fact, here are two of my Marc Rutters guitars.  Sadly, both are back in the USA now, I had to sell them when I lost my job.  Gutted....

Marlin

davedave

Hi @Marlin.
Thanks for posting this.
I'm a big fan of T K Smith's work too. He makes some stunning guitars.

TheMarlin

I think he's very unique builder.

xTheWiredTurtle

TheMarlin said:

My favourite B50 on a tele is the 'hacksaw' model.

This is popular with the guys in California who are into old Bigsby style pickups (T.K Smith makes the best modern versions). They cut out the tension bar on the B5/B50, and grind down/polish the cut ends.  They then mount the butchered Bigsby as far back on the body as they can, and use a longer arm.   The results are supposed to be excellent.   I'm having one build with Charlie Christian pickups in the new year.  Will report back then

Marlin