Quick Tutorial on doing Inlays

Andyjr1515

Hi

@TTony has suggested we include this in one  of the tips and tricks sticky as it is something that many potential modders would like to do to add a little 'polish' to their builds.  Below is an extract from my 2014 Challenge thread, specifically the inlaying bit.

I had started with a veneered and shaped headstock and wanted to add my signature 3 Swifts headstock moniker.  The headstock started like this:

 

The inlay I use is Mother of Pearl that is readily available from luthier suppliers in small and pre-thicknessed pieces:

 

My trademark is the stylised swifts which I print out in varying sizes.  I then cut out the templates and work out what positioning looks best for that particular headstock:

  

Next, I draw round the paper templates with a soft sharp pencil onto the Mother of Pearl.  Because I've done these a few times and they can be geometrically fluid, I do it freehand.  If it is an accurate geometrical shape I am after, I glue the template to the Mother of Pearl with thin superglue.

 

Next is to cut out the shape using a jewellers saw.  I use a relatively coarse blade (I say relatively because they are SOOOOOO tiny in the first place).  Buy plenty - they break frequently!

Note that my cutting rig is nothing more sophisticated than a bit of chipboard with a slot in it...

 

For cutting and filing, by the way, use a dust mask...you REALLY don't want to breath this stuff in...it's a bit like potter's clay dust - once it's in your lungs it doesn't come out again!

After a few blade breaks I have three inlays that are tidied up using fine needle files. 

 I'll post this bit first just in case I cock up something and lose it all...do not fear - the other stages will all be posted before the end of this evening  :-)

Andy

Andyjr1515

So, next is to position the inlays on the headstock and scribe / draw round them.  There are a number of ways of doing this (plenty of methods can be found on YouTube) but I find it OK for these simple shapes to do it directly onto the headstock with a very fine pencil.

Now we have the guide lines ready for routing the headstock itself:

For routing, I use a Dremel with the Stewmac (or equivalent) precision router base.  Dremel's own router base is too large and not rigid enough.

I use a 1.5mm router bit (sometimes a 1mm for particularly fine work) and position the depth just shallower than the MOP:

Then VERY CAREFULLY rout out the shape, stopping frequently to blow away the dust so I can see what I am doing.  I clear the bulk, well in from the pencil line, then gradually get closer to the inner edge of the pencil line.

Care is needed at very fine points where the rout is thinner than the router bit - stop short and finish off with a scalpel or modelling knife.

Do plenty of trial fits - you want to avoid going too far.  Once it's close, consider using the scalpel or sandpaper rather than the router (although I pretty exclusively use the router but I have done this a few times and have got a fairly steady hand)

You should end up with a rout something like this that the MOP goes into positively but close fitting:

Finish all the routing before gluing any of the inlays in - otherwise they get in the way of the router base!

Again, I'll post this to avoid losing it all and post the last bit in a few minutes.

Andy

Andyjr1515

Last bit - gluing them in.  

It is quite likely that it will not be a perfect fit but do not fear - there is another tip...mixing sanding dust from the top wood you are using with clear epoxy.  It works pretty well with light woods like this but it works unbelievably well with ebony!

So mix your epoxy well, and then add some sanding dust:

My confession is that, for this one, I forgot to save some dust so used some from a different build...not QUITE the same colour but close enough for the job.

Then fill the voids - you want to make sure, when you press in the inlay, that there is epoxy squeezed out at all of the edged so there are no gaps or voids...so use plenty and make sure the edges are well covered:

Now press the inlays in firmly.  by all means scrape away some of the overspill as it comes out but, given the option, leave it proud rather than creating an inadvertent hollow - it's going to be sanded down anyway (remember that we set the rout to be a little shallower than the inlay so the inlay will be sitting slightly proud)

 

Final bit is the easy bit.

Wait until the epoxy is fully cured (even for 5 min epoxy, best left overnight) then sand down the excess MOP and epoxy down to the headstock surface.  You can start with pretty coarse grit but then drop down to 400-600 at the end to make sure there are no scratch-marks left on the MOP surface.

The result, in the above example, is this:

  

Hope this has been of interest and help!  Like all new learned techniques, practice on any old bit of wood before attacking your pride and joy!!! 

WezV

good tutorial, pretty much the way i do it. the only thing I would expand on is glue choice.

Araldite is horrible epoxy.   Z-poxy or west systems are much easier to work with and clean up much better - but they are more expensive.   whichever you go for its much easier to mix if its slightly warm.  I was trying to mix some in a cold workshop on saturday and couldn't get anything out.  i dropped the bottles in some hot water for a few minutes and tried again with much better results

I often use super glue fir fixing inlays in place, although the process is slightly different.   You put a small drop on the back of the inlay to hold it in place, then push a load of wood dust into the gaps and put thin superglue on top of the dust.  only thing to be aware of it that superglue will polish up shinier than the surrounding wood.   this make it great for headstock inlays that will be lacquered, but epoxy is best for filling fretboard inlays 

also best to practice on ebony or dark rosewood, you can hide any goofs a lot easier on dark woods.  maple is very unforgiving.

Nomad

Any suggestions on where to get cutters and what to go for?

Andyjr1515

I use Small Wonder (they also sell jewellers saws and blades, MOP, etc)  Their web site is here.

Nomad

Cheers - looks like a handy shop. The bone nut blanks are a good price.

Loobs

Great thread. I'd love to attempt thos myself.

Nomad

Just got the router base from luthiertools.co.uk - really well made bit of kit.

What cutter sizes to get from Small Wonder? 1mm for the fine bits and, say, 2mm for roughing out? Are the really small ones prone to breaking? (Tiny carbide milling cutters can snap easily if they aren't used with great care on a manual mill.)

Andyjr1515

Nomad said:

Just got the router base from luthiertools.co.uk - really well made bit of kit.

What cutter sizes to get from Small Wonder? 1mm for the fine bits and, say, 2mm for roughing out? Are the really small ones prone to breaking? (Tiny carbide milling cutters can snap easily if they aren't used with great care on a manual mill.)

Hi @Nomad I have the 1 mm and 2mm bits. They are surprisingly strong, particularly as you are only going a mm or so deep for inlays...

Nomad

Cheers, Andy - I'll order those, then. (And some bits of bone, and maybe some inlay bits to practice with...)

JohnB

Do you have any experience of working with Paua shell? I bought some on holiday because it looked so spectacular but havent worked out how to use it yet

Andyjr1515

Hi, @JohnB. Haven't tried it but I would have thought it would cut and sand just like mother of pearl Anyone else tried it?

Sarge

Great tutorial mate, nice one!

I wonder if anyone here would undertake a small project for me sometime in the future?
I lost the serial number from the back of the headstock on a refinish recently, and I have this half baked idea that I'd like to have it inlaid with MOP, in the last fret position, but I'd like it done in a wee brass frame, so it'll be much easier to fit. Am I asking for the impossible here?

Jez6345789

Really great tutorial But any type of bird on a guitar will steal its soul Ha ha .

Andyjr1515

Jez6345789 said:

Really great tutorial But any type of bird on a guitar will steal its soul Ha ha .

Well - they do say that swifts are 'Devils's Birds'!   )

Andyjr1515

Sarge said:

I lost the serial number from the back of the headstock on a refinish recently, and I have this half baked idea that I'd like to have it inlaid with MOP, in the last fret position, but I'd like it done in a wee brass frame, so it'll be much easier to fit. Am I asking for the impossible here?

Well - to paraphrase a well known saying...maybe not impossible, but highly improbable   

WezV

Sarge said:

Great tutorial mate, nice one!

I wonder if anyone here would undertake a small project for me sometime in the future?
I lost the serial number from the back of the headstock on a refinish recently, and I have this half baked idea that I'd like to have it inlaid with MOP, in the last fret position, but I'd like it done in a wee brass frame, so it'll be much easier to fit. Am I asking for the impossible here?

you would be better off inlaying a rectangle of pearl ,brass or whatever else takes your fancy and engraving the serial number into it

JohnB said:

Do you have any experience of working with Paua shell? I bought some on holiday because it looked so spectacular but havent worked out how to use it yet

is it full shells?   the problem is the shells are very curved, and inlay blanks are generally flat.   some of the smaller shells are are too small and curved to be able to get good sized blanks from

anyway, generally you need to cut it into the flattest shapes possible from the raw shell, then mill it flat and admire the massive pile of calcium you have just created.   its easy to get a small flat bit for a dot, less easy to get a flat bit the size of a block marker

JohnB

Its pieces of shell - I will have to try to find a blade to cut it, seems very hard 

WezV

Jewelers saw