Since becoming a Junior 'nut' a few years ago, I've literally not played anything else and managed to be lucky enough to have a few vintage Juniors and 2 top spec replica's in my collection, including a '55 Single Cut and a stripped '59 TV Double Cut Model.
I have studied vintage Gibson juniors to cork sniffing detail and decided to set out to build my own. I didn't have the time/inclination to start from scratch so
I managed to snag a DC Jnr husk from Grahame @ GSP Basses before he stopped supplying us 'mere mortals' and set about researching Gibson's finishing process for their cherry red juniors (also the colour used on the rear of vintage 'bursts) using the correct aniline dyes.
Here's how it arrived:
I requested sharper edges which were found on the '58 models. Now, it's a superbly built guitar and a great lightweight piece too. It's not as vintage accurate as i'd like but essentially this is a prototype for the finishing process and a business idea I have brewing...more of that some other time...
So it was off on a trip to see Simon at
@RothkoAndFrost - who is very knowledgable and a great chap to boot - for some Aniline Dyes & Nitro Lacquer which were promptly dissolved in alcohol thinners.
After many test mixes, taking advice from MLP Forums amongst others, I reverted to a straight Red dye added directly to the grain filler. The aniline dye staining the wood while the filler fills the grain at the same time. Once the lacquer is applied, the dyed filler also leaches into it thus giving an extra 'cherry' hue to it (and why some of the CS Les Paul's had the red dye leaching into the neck binding on mid/later 2000's guitars so Gibson changed the method again due to complaints).
Now, first deviation away from 'vintage correct' as I used a dark grain filler (like the Gibson Custom Shop do currently) and not a light filler as they would have done in the 50's - it was what I had to hand.
Anyway, I added the bridge studs which are vintage correct long studs by Mojoaxe in the US and the body and neck were sanded to 240 grit:
The dye and filler were mixed together - I don't have pics of this as I was working fast and it would have been far too messy - and applied with a 'burlap'/Hessian rag....as was done in '58 (told you it was cork sniffy...!)
Comments
- Pickguard, Studs, Pointer Washer and Knobs all imported from MojoAxe in the US.
- Aged Faber Compensated Bridge and Posts
- Oil City Firewatch P90
- Aged Kluson Tuners
- Switchcraft Jack, CTS Pots and Grey Tiger Repro cap courtesy of Shugz Loomz.
I'm going for a 'closet classic' type finish. A lot of relic or replica guitars look like they have been dragged behind cars and then polished with a belt sander and just scream fake to me. The various vintage guitars I have seen and handled apart from the very heavy gigged guitars, generally, only have minimal dings, lacquer cracking and more of a dull patina about them.(formerly miserneil)
(formerly miserneil)
(formerly miserneil)
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/61134/sarge/p1
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(formerly miserneil)
It's good to see one of my guitars being build. Especially one that looking really good. I’m semi retired now so really don't have that much time in the workshop to take on custom work any more, I'm only supplying to trade customers now, making about 30 guitars a year.
However if I have a bad day and I end up with a “B” grade guitar I do still sell them off on here. The photo below is a “B” grade LP Junior not much wrong with it. I used a 9.5mm round over on the edges ( I believe the vintage ones had this anyway ) it should have been 5mm. It’s a bit over weight come’s in at 6 lb. A bit of TLC should make it in to a nice guitar. If any one wants it £310 inc P&P that’s about £130 off the trade price. SOLD
Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.
https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/