Rc3 remote switch

Skodadad

I bought 2 x momentary switches and a stereo jack cable to make an rc3 Looper remote switch. Both switches are tested and working. When I wire them up with a shared Sleeve , 1 tip to 1 switch ring to the other I can only get tap tempo working. The other switch is meant to scroll through preset banks. The bank select won't work unless I also hold down tap tempo though, on its own it does nothing. Anyone got a clue what I have done wrong?

steamabacus

Does it work something like like the Digitech FS3 switch perhaps? That involves a couple of diodes and a simple circuit to enable 3 functions - without the diodes, only one function will work. There are YouTube demos of how to wire up an equivalent to the FS3. Are there any similar for the Boss switch?

Skodadad

I followed one exactly and have rewired about 4 times with no joy

steamabacus

This video seems to suggest it's a basic momentary connection system. You can test the functions by plugging in the trs cable and shorting between tip & sleeve, ring & sleeve, etc and see what function, if any, it activates. Once you know what is what, wire up your momentary switches accordingly.

Note also, there are two types of momentary switch - press-to-make (the connection) and press-to-break (the connection). I'm guessing you'll need press-to-make?

Skodadad

I think I have the right kind of momentary switch as one works fine as per the video. The second when wired exactly the same way as the first doesn't. Tried swapping function on switches and the same thing happened.

m_c

From http://www.instructables.com/id/Boss-FS-6-Clone-Build-your-own/step2/Boss-FS-6-Clone-The-Plan/

"The basics:
You need the footswitches to be DPDT (Double-pole, Double-throw) and the toggle to be SPST (on-off-on). This allows the footswitch to be switched between 'normally open' or 'normally closed'. My RC-3 Loop Station needs 'normally closed', but since we are trying to make a solid clone, we want it to be able to switch like the FS-6. "

If that's accurate, you'll need Normally Closed/push to break switches.

NickL

Sounds like the bank switch is connected between tip and ring, and the only way to connect to the sleeve is by also pushing the tap tempo switch. Are you sure the stereo jack socket is wired correctly with two wires going to the sleeve, and one to each of the other two contacts?

Skodadad

I bought a stereo to stereo cable and cut one jack off. Left me with the sleve braid which connected to one side of each switch and the red and white core wires which I connected to the other side. I did buy two switches too but they are way to big for the pedal box. I may end up mounting the switches into my pedal board without a box to get around that.

m_c

Do you have a link to what switches you bought?

Skodadad

Switches : http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141848762394&alt=web

Toggle switches :http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121565901608&alt=web

I'm guessing all the wrong ones

m_c

The foot switches are Normally Open/push to make, so are wrong for this use.

Not sure why you've got toggle switches, but if they're On-On type from that listing and you were to get some NC/NO (changeover) push buttons, they'll be fine for making an FS6 clone, as per that instructables article I linked to.

Skodadad

Haha typical, that's pretty much my guitar history. Buy everything twice Cheers @m_c the switches are on off on I think

m_c

We all make mistakes.

Just had a quick search on ebay, and the only suitable momentary switch I can find is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Momentary-or-Latching-Rugged-Foot-Switch-DPDT-/161400782832?var=&hash=item25943c7ff0:m:mRPMeFZl5NfJM0NcnFJrXcA

Just make sure you get the momentary version.

You'll still be able to use On-Off-On switches, it's just in the Off position nothing gets connected.

m_c

And with all this talk, I'm almost tempted to build my own FS6 clone, but got far too many other jobs to get done just now.

steamabacus

This article seems to suggest that the RC-3 operates with standard push-to-make momentary switches and that the latching and polarity switches on the FS-6 aren't needed.

This can be easily tested by inserting the trs cable you have with one end stripped to bare wires. If you can operate the switching functions by touching the tip / sleeve and ring / sleeve wires together (probably - best to also test the tip / ring combination too), then this is the way to go. My gut instinct is that the RC-3 uses this simple switching but it's hard to say for certain without a pedal in front of me to test.

m_c

Just butchered an old cable to test, and it does need NC (aka Normally Closed/Push to break) switches. Treating the Tip/Sheild as a NO switch does allow you to set the tempo, but nothing else.

If the tip isn't shorted to the shield, then the second switch (up/down) doesn't work. Shorting the tip/shield allows you to move up (disconnect ring/shield briefly) and down (keep ring/shield disconnected). Disconnecting the tip/shield at any time stops any up/down changing.

steamabacus

m_c said:

Just butchered an old cable to test, and it does need NC (aka Normally Closed/Push to break) switches. Treating the Tip/Sheild as a NO switch does allow you to set the tempo, but nothing else.

If the tip isn't shorted to the shield, then the second switch (up/down) doesn't work. Shorting the tip/shield allows you to move up (disconnect ring/shield briefly) and down (keep ring/shield disconnected). Disconnecting the tip/shield at any time stops any up/down changing.

Wis'd for doing the testing.

Skodadad

I think I'll just stick with the tap tempo can't really spend another penny right now. Useful in itself though. Cheers guys