Hi
I referred to this in a recent thread. It's the latest and last in a bit of a run of bass guitars before I go back to a couple of 6-string electrics.
It's a modern-shaped 4-string 34" bass with a number of challenging features. This is the general concept:
It will be convex at the top and concave at the back, a bit like this (the geometry determines a few variations but this is, again, the general concept):
Other features:
- It will be thin - maximum body depth 30mm
- The fretboard will be full body length and flush with the radiused body
- Piezo undersaddle plus hidden custom cylinder electric pickup running through a blend pre-amp
- Headless tuner system (hidden and rear mounted with stylised headstock)
- Hidden controls, rear mounted
- White (at least as white as practicable) natural finish with sycamore body and maple fretboard
- Maple / ebony 5-part neck (through neck)
I'll post some progress shots shortly
Comments
To test the concept, I had to make up a jig. This was the concept:
...and this was the concept test rig I made for it. To my great surprise, it worked!:
It will have an acoustic-style saddle with a piezo element underneath. With the strings going through the headstock into the clamps, the headstock can be any shape Mick wants
In the 'neck' position will be a magnetic pickup hidden under the flush fretboard:
At first I was going for a conventional humbucker (like this but with adjustable pole-pieces) inserted from the back :
But in the end have opted for some custom cylindrical coils, again inserted from the back:
With the concepts sorted and tested, it was time to start cutting and gluing wood
Then, after cutting and routing the various access slots and cable runs, cut the sycamore body wings:
..and then sorted the housing for the tuner assembly:
...and added a fillet at the back:
...and cut and slotted the full-length fretboard:
That's pretty much up to date.
Next task is to radius the fretboard, then I can radius and flush-sand the body top to the same curvature and then scoop out the back for the 'contact lens' look
The wood is invisible to the magnetism, but potentially creates a further distance of the coil and slug from the string to normal which would reduce the volume. However, because the fretboard is continuous, the surface over the pickup is only 3mm away from the string, then I can probably get the slug a couple of mm lower and the coil itself another mm - so it would be like a standard neck humbucker at 6mm from the string - which isn't bad ... if that makes any sense
Got all my exercise for the month sanding the radius on the extra-long and wide rock maple fretboard blank:
...and eventually:
Then started on the initial carving and sanding of the top, which will be eventually the same 20" radius and flush...this kind of look:
Literally days more sanding (and that's just the top) - as this is nowhere near 20" yet - but you get the general idea?
Will probably fret it before I fix it...or failing that, finish that side of the fret properly and then leave the overlap at the treble end to tidy up...or failing that, find a bodge as is more usual
Bit disappointed to see (what looked like) a proper workbench there though ... what's happened to the trusty workbench?
And I managed to winkle MrsAndyjr1515 out of the cellar with her potters wheel! So now I have a WORKSHOP. Well, to be honest, a small area in a dark dank cellar but it's big enough for a proper workbench YAAAAAAAYY!!!
And MrsAndyjr1515, poor thing, been relegated to the purpose built potters shed out in the sunshine in the garden.
Oh hang on.....wait a minute......
......BUGGER!
Jokes on her, we don't get Sunshine in this country.
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A case in point is the playing hand clearance because the strings are soooo close to the fretboard/body. So there is a very subtle drop-away just after the 24th fret that might at least give a couple of mm. But then too much and the hidden neck pickups, fitted into the back with blind chambers carved into the fretboard, are also another few mm away from the strings.
Love it
At its slimmest (widest) this is the sort of cross section I'm looking at aiming for:
That section is across here:
So basically, the top curve of the body is 20" radius (ish) and flush with the fretboard.
After sharpening my block plane and joiner plane blades, I set about the carve of the top.
I made two reference points - I did a quick roundover on the back edge:
...and a soft pencil line so I didn't inadvertently plane away the joint line where it will be flush with the fretboard:
After a day's planing, off and on and taking it very carefully, the lower bout is starting to get there:
I also spoke to the guy who is winding me the four individual magnetic coils that will be fitted from the back and sit hidden underneath the fretboard in the positions shown here:
Bit more carving to do - you can see the slight hump on the upper bout compared with the fretboard here:
...and then I will be routing the controls chamber and hidden controls bay before starting the carve of the back
Truly weird & wonderful.
The tuners will stick out of the back a bit, but I expect it'll be fine in a well padded gigbag...
And yes - it is a bit 'weird and wonderful'