It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
Here's a pic of the guts and some, er, temporary graphics...
Hooked it all up with my amp to test and it's great, works fantastically as a boost with the expected crackle on turning the knob (transistor rebiasing?) but the LED is always on.
I'm sure I've just done something stupidly simple.
Edit - maybe the wire coming from the main board to the LED pad should be the other pad? LED right way around as well?
Nope definitely that one. That's coming from the CLR to the +ve of the LED. The -ve side of the LED should be switched out as far as I can tell.
The switch does this:
So in the upper position, the first column connects the input to the boost circuit, the second column connects the boost circuit to the output and the third column connects the LED -ve to ground.
In the lower position, the first and third columns connect the boost circuit straight to ground and the middle column connects the input straight to output. The LED should have no -ve at this point but it does. I have somehow shorted the top right and middle right pins of the switch, which remain connected regardless of the switch position. I suspect a solder connection underneath the switch daughterboard. The way the switch tags come through the board leave a fair amount of space, so I think I probably filled the void with too much solder.
A pic of the daughterboard atop the switch from my other kit so you can see what I mean.
I guess I'll desolder the switch so I can get under it to clean it up and replace the LED.
As an aside, the pedal sounds great.
The LED was fine to begin with for 20 mins of playing, I'm not sure how it failed. Would wiring it up backwards break it? I used a new battery clip when I started doing the faultfinding which is wired to a power adaptor type plug but I didn't realise it was +ve centred instead of negative until nothing was working! While testing I've been using another one croc clipped to the legs and it has been working fine. If wiring it backwards wouldn't do it then no idea!
Sure enough...
So I managed to wreck the little board taking it off (oops), but the boost circuit itself is fine so I'll just take the opportunity to practice wiring it up normally.
I just need to do something with the enclosure before I wire it in.
I also got started on my first Vero build. I've cut the board to size, done the links (carefully) and got the resistors on. It's a Lovepedal Eternity Burst clone:
I bought this as a kit from bits box so that I didn't have to faff hunting the correct components at the outset. It says the diodes should be 1N914, but the ones that were supplied were 1N4148. From what I've read, these should be interchangeable and have no issues?
Those greenies are big buggers, aren't they? But will do when you're short of a poly box. ;-)
Edit - I just realised the greenie cap must have come with the Bitsbox kit of parts. Maybe because it has longer leads for the stretch?
Awesome, got some on the way.
Started having a play around trying to come up with graphics and have this so far for the SHO boost clone. The drill marks aren't quite right so I need to play around some more, but this is my general idea. Not sure yet how I am going to actually apply the graphics - I have a few options.