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Lesson of the day: How to relic hardware in 4 (easy) steps

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So I'm building a '52 blackguard partscaster and decided to relic my own parts.
Did a bit of reading online and lots of places offer pre-reliced bits for high prices, so I DIY'd it.
Thought I'd share my findings to save some of you guys some trouble/money.
Please do not enter the whole "relicing is shite" debate... this thread is made with good intentions!
It is literally the easiest thing in the world...

Step 1. Buy bog-standard nickel hardware.
Step 2. Buy 250mL Hydrochloric acid (£8 delivered)
Step 3. Leave hardware in closed tupperware with some acid in an little pot.
Step 4. Take hardware out after desired look achieved.

Boom.

image


1979 Tokai TE-85
1980 Tokai LS-80
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Comments

  • TimmyOTimmyO Frets: 7392
    5. Attach to a guitar body that has been belt-sanded then had some poo smeared in
    Red ones are better. 
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  • TimmyOTimmyO Frets: 7392
    (although that hardware does look very good I must say)
    Red ones are better. 
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  • monoaminemonoamine Frets: 506
    edited February 2014
    haha :) i've seen some terrible/tragic examples on ebay as well
    luckily for me I grabbed a tastefully done one off of eBay so won't be offering tips on that!!
    1979 Tokai TE-85
    1980 Tokai LS-80
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  • whatever happened to just playing 1 guitar a lot?


    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • Not a 'realistic' relic man myself but...

    ... That looks very good.  Just be careful - HCl is pretty nasty stuff, though I'm assuming you've not used the fuming stuff, and it's just the fumes that have done the work for you rather than dipping the hardware in it.  

    I'll remember that if ever I do a partscaster with a 'ruined' theme.  
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16647
    looks good

    this is the method you need to use for chrome to get any ageing occurring.   Nickel can also be aged with circuit board etching solution (ferric chloride??), but that stuff won't touch chrome 
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  • I can tell you from experience it works with both nickel and chrome parts.
    Chrome requires more time exposure and can start to green if left for too long... hard to get a dull patina without knocking the shiny coat off with sandpaper prior
    1979 Tokai TE-85
    1980 Tokai LS-80
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16647
    i wasn't saying you couldn't, just that you have no other really good option with chrome, whereas nickel can be done a couple of ways.   

    Just adding to the completeness of the discussion rather than criticizing your approach!   It pays to know more than one method as it allows you to choose the most appropriate one for a given situation

    this is a pair of pickups i aged with ferric chloride.  as the pickups were potted i was able to do it without taking them apart first just by wiping a bit of the solution on.   I would not have been able to do these covers using hydrochloric acid without removing them first. these were cheap pickup so the copper showing through is completely wrong, but you get the idea

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  • Did you take precautions with your tuners?
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  • axisusaxisus Frets: 28285
    Did you take precautions with your tuners?
    Yeah, he put them in a condom first. Nice relic stuff - I'm gonna try that next time.
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  • stonevibestonevibe Frets: 7133
    You can get the same effect using white vinegar. Used in the same way i.e. on a little tray in a sealed box so the fumes tarnish the nickel.

    Win a Cort G250 SE Guitar in our Guitar Bomb Free UK Giveaway 


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  • haha i didn't put them in a condom!
    basically you want the fumes to have good access to the metal but not submerge it... so i had a little open plastic pot holding the acid in the same tupperware as the loose hardware
    1979 Tokai TE-85
    1980 Tokai LS-80
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  • Looks great.
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  • jaygtrjaygtr Frets: 218
    So just to get this straight you don't put the hardware in the acid it's self, you put the hardware in a sealed container with the acid and the fumes tarnish it?

    Nice job by the way.

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  • exactly. and then take it out and let it air dry (should have some condensation in it which will turn into patina)
    1979 Tokai TE-85
    1980 Tokai LS-80
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  • jaygtrjaygtr Frets: 218
    monoamine;158884" said:
    exactly. and then take it out and let it air dry (should have some condensation in it which will turn into patina)

    Thank you .

    I will definitely try it on my next build.

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  • DannyPDannyP Frets: 1676
    Can I ask where you get your HCl at that price and what strength you're using?
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  • off of amazon... says "36%" but fumes and behaves like the 16molar strong stuff i had at school! don't inhale and avoid skin contact. also, if you need to dilute, add acid to water, not water to acid!
    1979 Tokai TE-85
    1980 Tokai LS-80
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  • DannyPDannyP Frets: 1676
    Righto, many thanks!
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  • DannyPDannyP Frets: 1676
    Actually mate, if you've finished with it and have half a bottle left, are you interested in punting it on to me?
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