Bass Bridge Problem (Gibson 3 point type)

JezWynd

The picture tells the story. Got this bass, an Epiphone EB-1, today. It was covered in nicotine so had to strip down and clean it. On reassembly, I strung it up with Pyramid Flats, all seemed fine but looking at it 30 mins later I noticed that the bridge post ferrules are lifting out of the body. It's occurring on both the rear posts and got a lot worse than the picture. The post slot pieces are actually a tight fit in the body, I can't get them back in place without a lot of force or a hammer but as soon as tension is applied via the strings it reoccurs. I've tried setting the bridge so that the single front foot is standing higher than the rear two but it makes no difference.

Any ideas on what I should do? Would supergluing the posts cure the problem or add to it?

Any advice or tips very gratefully received.

Funkfingers

The splines need something into which to bite.

Cribbing liberally from a Dan Erlewine repair book.

1. Draw the threaded posts fully out of the drilled holes.
2. Look down the holes to check that the bridge ground wire is in position.
3. Soak the walls of the drilled holes with Superglue. (I kid you not!)
4. Let the Superglue harden fully.
5. Lubricate the splined inserts.
6. Tap 'em in with a mallet.

JezWynd

Funkfingers said:

The splines need something into which to bite.

Cribbing liberally from a Dan Erlewine repair book.

1. Draw the threaded posts fully out of the drilled holes.
2. Look down the holes to check that the bridge ground wire is in position.
3. Soak the walls of the drilled holes with Superglue. (I kid you not!)
4. Let the Superglue harden fully.
5. Lubricate the splined inserts.
6. Tap 'em in with a mallet.

Thanks. So I don't actually glue the posts in but rather use the superglue to build up the hole. What lubricant would you recommend? Do you think if I got a Hipshot replacement it would have the same issue?

Bridgehouse

Slightly off topic - what do you think to it @JezWynd - any good?

JezWynd

Bridgehouse said:

Slightly off topic - what do you think to it @JezWynd - any good?

Apart from the bridge issue and that it came coated in nicotine, I've been pleasantly surprised. It's a fretless and I've always fancied trying one. The shape isn't as pleasing as the Gibson original (the shoulders are more sloping) but the build quality and esp the neck is quite good.

I haven't spent enough time with it plugged in to comment on the pickup but it looks the part -

Bridgehouse

You’re a brave man - unlined fretless and all! 

I’m thinking the next build needs to be an SG body - is it long or short scale?

JezWynd

Bridgehouse said:

You’re a brave man - unlined fretless and all! 

I’m thinking the next build needs to be an SG body - is it long or short scale?

Short scale. I don't think it's been played much, it was strung with rounds but the fretboard is unmarked.

Bridgehouse

JezWynd said:

Bridgehouse said:

You’re a brave man - unlined fretless and all! 

I’m thinking the next build needs to be an SG body - is it long or short scale?

Short scale. I don't think it's been played much, it was strung with rounds but the fretboard is unmarked.

Sounds like it’s not then - specially if it was rounds on a fretless. I wonder if the Hipshot bridge is worth a go anyway even if you could fix the one it has - I think the intonation etc is better?

JezWynd

Bridgehouse said:

JezWynd said:

Bridgehouse said:

You’re a brave man - unlined fretless and all! 

I’m thinking the next build needs to be an SG body - is it long or short scale?

Short scale. I don't think it's been played much, it was strung with rounds but the fretboard is unmarked.

Sounds like it’s not then - specially if it was rounds on a fretless. I wonder if the Hipshot bridge is worth a go anyway even if you could fix the one it has - I think the intonation etc is better?

At the very least it would stop the silks sitting on the saddles. I replaced the bridge on an SG bass with the Babicz model; that was a noticeable improvement but I wasn't that keen on the look of it, though it was very well thought out and easy to adjust. If I do go with a replacement I'll def go with Hipshot this time, it's a smaller unit but I need to check it will work with the EB-1 which has a slightly arched top. Intonating the Gibson 3 point wasn't difficult and my main criticism is that it falls apart if the strings are removed, but as a bridge; it works okay, even though it's standing on three pillars clear of the body.

Funkfingers

Bridgehouse said:
I wonder if the Hipshot bridge is worth a go anyway even if you could fix the one it has - I think the intonation etc is better?

Hopefully, the materials used in an aftermarket bridge will be better than the stock item. 

Er, does anybody make a bridge in that style with piezo saddles?

Bridgehouse said:

You’re a real man - unlined fretless and all! 

FTFY

Bridgehouse

I must admit I really do prefer bridges that allow individual string height adjustment

ICBM

Araldite.

1. The high-strength/slow-set type, not the quick-set.

2. Roughen the outside of the post inserts with some coarse sandpaper so the glue bonds to them properly.

3. Fit them with the posts screwed in fully and some grease on the ends of them to stop the glue getting back up into the threads.

4. Gently heat the whole area with a hairdryer, this will make the glue set harder and stronger.

JezWynd

ICBM said:

Araldite.

1. The high-strength/slow-set type, not the quick-set.

2. Roughen the outside of the post inserts with some coarse sandpaper so the glue bonds to them properly.

3. Fit them with the posts screwed in fully and some grease on the ends of them to stop the glue getting back up into the threads.

4. Gently heat the whole area with a hairdryer, this will make the glue set harder and stronger.

Mosquito glue! That sounds like the right way to go about it. You should write a book ICBM, you are the oracle of guitar maintenance. Thank you.

ICBM

JezWynd said:

Mosquito glue! That sounds like the right way to go about it. You should write a book ICBM, you are the oracle of guitar maintenance. Thank you.

I have a long history of having to think of solutions to this sort of thing .

OilCityPickups

ICBM said:

Araldite.

1. The high-strength/slow-set type, not the quick-set.

2. Roughen the outside of the post inserts with some coarse sandpaper so the glue bonds to them properly.

3. Fit them with the posts screwed in fully and some grease on the ends of them to stop the glue getting back up into the threads.

4. Gently heat the whole area with a hairdryer, this will make the glue set harder and stronger.

I've had a hell of a problem getting the 'original' slow setting Araldite. I find the quick setting stuff absolutely rubbish for anything really. 

Not for this job of course, but I have a new favorite 'trick' adhesive: Loctite Power-Flex, a slower setting, 'positionable' cyanoacrylate thats flexible. Quite amazing stuff. 

JezWynd

TheGuitarWeasel said:

I've had a hell of a problem getting the 'original' slow setting Araldite. I find the quick setting stuff absolutely rubbish for anything really. 

Funny you mention this. I've just returned from B&Q where they told me they've just taken Araldite off the shelves, shortly to be replaced by their own in-house brand. I've gone with a Gorilla Epoxy, hopefully that will be up to the job.

ICBM

TheGuitarWeasel said:

I've had a hell of a problem getting the 'original' slow setting Araldite. I find the quick setting stuff absolutely rubbish for anything really. 

That's annoying. I've relied on it for decades... I'm very used to working with it and its quirks. I have some left, but not much and I will need some soon.

I wouldn't be surprised if the quick-set stuff has finally tarnished the brand enough to hurt sales of the proper one - it is truly shit, I can't think of any application I'd actually want to use it for.

It's so bad it's even given 'epoxy' in general a bad name I think.

Paul_C

My approach has always been to mix wood dust and titebond and apply it to the sides of the hole before putting the insert in and leaving it to dry - not had any complaints so far but I'll bear the araldite in mind for the future if the dust/glue fails.

ICBM

Paul_C said:

My approach has always been to mix wood dust and titebond and apply it to the sides of the hole before putting the insert in and leaving it to dry - not had any complaints so far but I'll bear the araldite in mind for the future if the dust/glue fails.

That would probably work quite well, and even better if you heavily score the posts horizontally, so the glue/dust mixture sets around the grooves.

Those Gibson bridges really do put a lot of upward force on the rear posts though...

JezWynd

ICBM said:

Those Gibson bridges really do put a lot of upward force on the rear posts though...

Do you think the Hipshot replacement would be an improvement in that respect, noting that the Epi is not through body strung?



I've glued the bridge in place using Gorilla Epoxy, leaving it 24+ hours before putting any stress on it to allow it to set.

ICBM

JezWynd said:

Do you think the Hipshot replacement would be an improvement in that respect, noting that the Epi is not through body strung?

No, if anything it's worse because the ball ends are lower down so the upward force will be even greater.

You also can't put one on your Epi because it has an arched top.