Buying a car

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Emp_FabEmp_Fab Frets: 15651
edited May 4 in Off Topic
It only occurred to me tonight that I'm going to have to buy a bloody car !  I've had a company car since 1993 and now I've been given the boot, they're going to want their car back!

I have no idea where to start - what's crap these days, what's good etc.

The last car I owned was a 1986 Toyota Corolla !

I'm pretty good mechanically, so I'm confident at checking out potential purchases - I just have no idea what car to look for to begin with.  I haven't even considered a budget - I have no idea of how much they are these days!  Help!!
Trump: A narcissistic luminous orange ball bag and Rome burning in man form.
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 21369
    More information required.

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  • Emp_FabEmp_Fab Frets: 15651
    I would like a car with 4 wheels that will cost me under £4,000 and won't cost me tons in tax, fuel or insurance but equally isn't a Ford Ka or other tin scooter.

    Better ?  :grin: 
    Trump: A narcissistic luminous orange ball bag and Rome burning in man form.
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  • RaymondLinRaymondLin Frets: 4399
    You need to know

    1 - how many miles you do

    This lead to whether you go petrol or diesel

    2 - what kind of journey is it

    Similar to Q1

    3 - how many seats and space do you need

    This will determined the style of car

    4 - what tech do you want

    self explanatory 

    5 - how much you want to spend or afford to spend

    Buy outright, lease? PCP? Bank loan?

    6 - do you want it to be fun or purely practical


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  • SCRelicsGuitarsSCRelicsGuitars Frets: 3080
    tFB Trader
    We have a 2007 vw Passat sport. Unreal car, moves like greased shit, looks great, very very reliable and the perfect size for us. A few grand would buy one or similar in the range 
    Formerly lonestar • Owner of SC Relics Guitars • www.screlics.co.uk • aged boutique partcaster bodies and necks
    Trading feedback - http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/99272/
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  • RaymondLinRaymondLin Frets: 4399
    edited March 29
    My suggestion.


    5L, V8, 2doors, 4 seats and a boot, only £2k. :trollface: 

    https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201903045518347
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  • Emp_FabEmp_Fab Frets: 15651
    You need to know

    1 - how many miles you do
    A: Dunno yet !  I was clocking up 30K+ annually but I've been made redundant and have no idea what my future mileage might be.

    2 - what kind of journey is it
    A: Similar to Q1's answer!

    3 - how many seats and space do you need
    A: 4 doors, 4/5 seats.  Space is not that important other than I don't want to drive a tiny hatchback.

    4 - what tech do you want
    A: Don't care.  Air con would be nice, as would LED headlights (but these aren't essential)

    5 - how much you want to spend or afford to spend
    A: Dunno !  I'm hoping under £4K might get me something that hasn't got ripped seats, 100K on the clock and an unidentifiable smell.  Cash purchase.

    6 - do you want it to be fun or purely practical
    A. Practical.  It's a machine for getting from A to B.

    Additionally, reliability is important, but equally the cost of replacement parts (even non OEM).  I don't want to be under the bloody thing every weekend.  For that reason, I'm looking for full service history - ideally from a main dealer.  Mileage is less of a concern if it's had regular main dealer services.  I will inevitably be doing any work on it myself, so serviceability is very important too.
    Trump: A narcissistic luminous orange ball bag and Rome burning in man form.
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  • RaymondLinRaymondLin Frets: 4399
    My suggestion then...serious one.

    Honda Civic, Toyota Auris (it is like a Corolla), old Lexus too are good value.

    stay away way from French personally and Vauxhalls too.  Cars like VW comes with a scene tax and it’s no more realisable than a Japanese. Korean cars in the last few years are good value.  Kia or Hyundai.

    btw, a lot of modern cars are nothing like the old ones, you will need a laptop these days to diagnose some faults when the engine throws a wobble, like to clear a light etc.  Gone are the days where you can do it all yourself.

    if you don’t know how many miles you do (less than 10k) then get a petrol.

    before you buy any car, put the plate through this link and see it’s MOT history.  

    https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/


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  • steveledzepsteveledzep Frets: 396
    My suggestion then...serious one.

    Honda Civic, Toyota Auris (it is like a Corolla), old Lexus too are good value.

    stay away way from French personally and Vauxhalls too.  Cars like VW comes with a scene tax and it’s no more realisable than a Japanese. Korean cars in the last few years are good value.  Kia or Hyundai.

    btw, a lot of modern cars are nothing like the old ones, you will need a laptop these days to diagnose some faults when the engine throws a wobble, like to clear a light etc.  Gone are the days where you can do it all yourself.

    if you don’t know how many miles you do (less than 10k) then get a petrol.

    before you buy any car, put the plate through this link and see it’s MOT history.  

    https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/


    Excellent advice, agree with everything said.
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  • olafgartenolafgarten Frets: 1495
    I'd recommend an Auris, you can get a good 2009 one for around £4000.

    Toyota build their cars like tanks, it's quite common for them to run for over a million miles. 
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 21369
    edited March 30
    Honda Civic.

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  • BellycasterBellycaster Frets: 3242
    Ironically, a 1986 Toyota Corolla with decent mileage and one careful owner will probably still be your best bet :)
    Four Legs Good, Two Legs Bad
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  • HAL9000HAL9000 Frets: 4759
    • +1 for Japanese. Had four Toyotas (including an Auris). Not very exciting cars, but utterly reliable. Nothing ever went wrong. Currently driving a Civic, but haven’t had it long enough yet to comment on reliability. Nicer to drive than the Toyotas though, and a more pleasant cockpit. Boot is huge.
    It might look like I'm listening to you, but in my head I'm playing my guitar.
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  • skunkwerxskunkwerx Frets: 2215
    Don't buy a Nissan, cos the staff at the dealership on the end of my road are wee pricks and always park over my drive. 

    Mark Wahlberg reckons driving a Prius is like riding around inside a vagina. 

    German cars don't come with indicators.

    French ones appear to be biodegradable, but they do run on hopes and dreams for a bit. 



    No, buy something sensible, like a Trabant or a Sierra Cosworth. 


    The only easy day, was yesterday...
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  • stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 11514
    I’m pretty sure the answer is a Mazda MX5. 
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  • vizviz Frets: 5464
    stay away way from French personally


    Their cars are rubbish too. 




    Couldn’t resist it :)
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  • EricTheWearyEricTheWeary Frets: 8145
    My suggestion then...serious one.

    Honda Civic, Toyota Auris (it is like a Corolla), old Lexus too are good value.

    stay away way from French personally and Vauxhalls too.  Cars like VW comes with a scene tax and it’s no more realisable than a Japanese. Korean cars in the last few years are good value.  Kia or Hyundai.

    btw, a lot of modern cars are nothing like the old ones, you will need a laptop these days to diagnose some faults when the engine throws a wobble, like to clear a light etc.  Gone are the days where you can do it all yourself.

    if you don’t know how many miles you do (less than 10k) then get a petrol.

    before you buy any car, put the plate through this link and see it’s MOT history.  

    https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/



     octatonic said:
    Honda Civic.

    HAL9000 said:
    • +1 for Japanese. Had four Toyotas (including an Auris). Not very exciting cars, but utterly reliable. Nothing ever went wrong. Currently driving a Civic, but haven’t had it long enough yet to comment on reliability. Nicer to drive than the Toyotas though, and a more pleasant cockpit. Boot is huge.

    My old Civic is probably the best car I’ve ever owned (although the competition in this category isn’t particularly strong). Quite low on gadgets but fairly practical and easy to drive. 
    Let us realize the arc of the moral universe is long, but it bends toward justice.
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  • stevebrumstevebrum Frets: 4804
    I’m pretty sure the answer is a Mazda MX5. 
    Assuming the question was - I’m a hairdresser what car shall I buy?

    Someone had to.  ;)
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  • stevebrumstevebrum Frets: 4804
    edited March 30
    It’s a shame you don’t know what mileage you’ll be doing as a lease might suit you better - if you’re accustomed to a company car I don’t think you’ll be happy about owning an old car and the associated hassle.

    Not many folk seem to agreee with me but leasing is the way forward. No worries fixed cost motoring driving a brand new motor that is much less likely to break down, won’t cost a penny in repairs, won’t need an MOT, and if you pay a bit more per month included servicing/tyres.

    Oh and the other bonus is you don’t own a car so when the time comes you don’t have to sell one either.

    Selling cars is one of my most hated activities. Chop in with a dealer you lose a load of money - stick it in the autotrader and you have to deal with some right idiots trying to buy. 
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 4906
    I'd go Japanese.  We bought our Toyota four and half years ago with 60k miles on it.  Apart from MOTs and routine servicing, the only money I've had to spend is wiper blades, tyres and maybe a light bulb or two.  Total contrast to the Citroen I had before.

    Unless you know for sure what kind of driving you will be doing, I'd go petrol.  Unless you are certain that you will regularly be doing reasonably long motorway journeys, then you run the risk of a DPF on a diesel clogging up and costing a fortune.  Also, if you are planning to keep it a while, then a diesel might fall foul of the anti-pollution charges that are coming in to drive into cities.  London is leading the way on that, but other cities will follow.  Even if you don't personally drive into those cities, the charges will affect resale value on a diesel.
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  • boogiemanboogieman Frets: 5994
    You can do routine servicing as a DIY job... oil changes, filters, brake pads and discs are all do-able at home so I wouldn’t discount that side. More modern cars end up in the scrapyard because of electronic and electrical problems than anything else as some are a nightmare to diagnose and/or hugely expensive to repair. Rust seems to be the least of the problems now.

    I agree on the Civic or a Focus can be had cheap and are pretty decent value for money. 

     
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  • 57Deluxe57Deluxe Frets: 6671
    you better make your mind up quick cos the value of second hand cars is going through the roof right now in light of:


    <Vintage BOSS Upgrades>
    __________________________________
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 38999
    Emp_Fab said:

    Additionally, reliability is important, but equally the cost of replacement parts (even non OEM).  I don't want to be under the bloody thing every weekend.  For that reason, I'm looking for full service history - ideally from a main dealer.  Mileage is less of a concern if it's had regular main dealer services.
    If you've had experience of having your car 'serviced' by a main dealer and then found things they claimed to have done but actually didn't, you wouldn't think that was so desirable.

    The worst one I've come across is my wife's Suzuki (one previous owner) which was always main-dealer serviced from new, although we actually bought it from an independent dealer. We recently had a problem with brake fade... when my trusted independent mechanic looked at it he reckons the brake fluid had *never* been changed, despite it having been through at least one and probably two services where that should have been done.

    Slightly less serious, my daughter had her Kia serviced at the Kia main dealer recently (necessary to keep the 7-year warranty valid), and when it came back they had ticked a box marked "all wheels removed, inspected, refitted and re-torqued". No they didn't... or not unless they could have replaced the cable ties I fitted to hold the wheel trims on with identically old and dirty ones! So what else didn't they do, that they ticked?

    Speaking from experience of having bought about half a dozen cars from small independent dealers over the last 20 or so years, and a couple from main dealers... main dealers are utter cowboys. Stay away, and go to a small independent with a good reputation - they're not all crooks, check online reviews - and who offers a warranty that you *don't* pay extra for to a third-party company, they're usually not worth the paper they're printed on either.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
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  • midlifecrisismidlifecrisis Frets: 1529
    buy privately from a middle aged + family man,  15 year old car with 10 months MOT left and service history, pay about £500. probably never have to do anything until the next MOT, and keep until something fails, then scrap it for £150 and repeat.
    in the past i have owned brand new and nearly new and tbh unles you are image concious about it, this is the most economical way to go, no monthly charges or expensive servicing.
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 11949
    buy privately from a middle aged + family man,  15 year old car with 10 months MOT left and service history, pay about £500. probably never have to do anything until the next MOT, and keep until something fails, then scrap it for £150 and repeat.
    in the past i have owned brand new and nearly new and tbh unles you are image concious about it, this is the most economical way to go, no monthly charges or expensive servicing.
    This is what I do. Contrary to the belief of most company car types, 15 year old cars are no less reliable than new ones these days, but it's safest to buy something reasonably big and unstressed if you go that route. 

    My last Volvo but one is still going strong in the hands of my bass player, who I sold it to for a hundred quid four years ago after I fancied a change. I'd only paid 250 a couple of years before that. If he is unlucky enough to get an expensive fault he can just walk away. 

    Unless you get a new job which requires a massive commute, don't waste multiple thousands on simple transport, there's simply no need these days. 
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 18278
    Renault Wind.
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  • grungebobgrungebob Frets: 1287
    You haven’t owned a car since the late 80’s so I’m guessing that’s the last time you serviced a car yourself as rest was done by lease company?

    apart from brakes and tyres I think you’ll have a hard time adapting to the world of plastic covers and diagnostic plugs. 
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  • NunogilbertoNunogilberto Frets: 1503
    I’d look at a Skoda from the past few years. Reliability and refinement. 
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  • grungebobgrungebob Frets: 1287
    I’d look at a Skoda from the past few years. Reliability and refinement. 
    Chuck Honda and Mitsubishi into the hat too. 
    The older Honda Civic diesels where chain driven , decent mpg and quick-ish. 
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  • ESBlondeESBlonde Frets: 2831
    Another vote for Japanese. Parts are more expensive IF you have to buy any. Also skoda, they are tried and tested VW technology but have better reliability than their parent co overall.
    My Octavia estate did 56 to the gallon and had a huge boot.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 38999
    ESBlonde said:
    Another vote for Japanese. Parts are more expensive IF you have to buy any.
    Suzuki seem cheaper, both for parts and for used values in general, than the other Japanese companies - I don't know why. We've been extremely happy with both the ones we've had (main-dealer 'service' issues aside) and I'd happily buy another.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson
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