Getting into cycling

Axe_meister

Question on gear shifters.
I have Microshift derailiors on the bike with what I would class as flappy paddle shifters .
If at some point I upgrade to a different Cassette (with more gears) would I have to get a new break/shifter combination?
Not thinking of upgrading yet just trying to work out the mechanics of modern bikes.

littlegreenman

Axe_meister said:

Question on gear shifters.
I have Microshift derailiors on the bike with what I would class as flappy paddle shifters .
If at some point I upgrade to a different Cassette (with more gears) would I have to get a new break/shifter combination?
Not thinking of upgrading yet just trying to work out the mechanics of modern bikes.

Yep, new brake-shifters and a new rear deraileur.

Axe_meister

In the old days with the frame mounted lever you just had to upgrade the cassette.

Axe_meister

I am already going down a rabbit hole watching YouTube videos on carbon frames from China that are identical to really expensive brands (that happen to be manufactured in China) for £300.

crunchman

littlegreenman said:

Axe_meister said:

Question on gear shifters.
I have Microshift derailiors on the bike with what I would class as flappy paddle shifters .
If at some point I upgrade to a different Cassette (with more gears) would I have to get a new break/shifter combination?
Not thinking of upgrading yet just trying to work out the mechanics of modern bikes.

Yep, new brake-shifters and a new rear deraileur.

Different chain as well.  7 / 8 speed chain is different from 9 speed, which is different than 10 speed, which is different from 11 speed!

Axe_meister

Surely that's dependent on the largest rear cog only?

BigMonka

Axe_meister said:

Surely that's dependent on the largest rear cog only?

No it’s the width of the chain that changes (gets narrower as there are more gears to fit in the same space) - and considerably more expensive too!

just get out and ride with what ever you’ve got, enjoy it without GAS ruining it!

Axe_meister

Just interested in the engineering of it all.

AlexO

Rules

1.  // Obey The Rules.
2.  // Tan lines should be cultivated and kept razor sharp.Under no circumstances should one be rolling up their sleeves or shorts in an effort to somehow diminish one’s tan lines. Sleeveless jerseys are under no circumstances to be employed.
3.  // The bikes on top of your car should be worth more than the car.
   
4.  Shave your guns.Legs are to be carefully shaved at all times. If, for some reason, your legs are to be left hairy, make sure you can dish out plenty of hurt to shaved riders, or be considered a hippie douche on your way to a Critical Mass. Whether you use a straight razor or a Bowie knife, use Baxter to keep them smooth.
   

The most important rule, you will meet lots of these guys the more you get into it.

Please don't be that guy

Axe_meister

Well I am a hairy bastard at the best of times. My cars are both new and not cheap. By bike is a cheap Decathlon and my mamil outfit is again cheapest of the cheap and short sleeve. 

ewal

I really wouldn't bother with any upgrades until you've got a fair few miles under your belt. A 24 speed is going to have a decent range, unless it's got a silly cassette on it currently. If you think you need a wider range then there's loads of 8 speed cassette options, none of them expensive. If you want a reeeeeaaaally low gear, then you might need to change to a long cage rear derailleur - but this still would be cheaper than changing the shifters to anything decent. A decent bike shop will be able to advise.

And you can run 9 speed chains on an 8 speed cassette, or 10 speed chains on a 9 speed. Some would say the changing is not as crisp. I've never noticed this, as long as it's properly adjusted and nothing is worn out.

strtdv

You should have plenty of range on a triple, even if the cassette is pretty narrow ranged.

To change to a 11 speed you will need:
New shifters
New rear derailleur
New cassette
New chain

You'll probably also need:
New front derailleur

And possibly even new front chainrings and a new freehub.

All this is fairly pricey even second hand, and most bikes that come with a 3x8 setup tend to be fairly low end.

You'd likely be better off using what you have until you get fed up with it and then waiting until decathlon or Halfords have a sale on (both decathlon bikes and Boardman bikes offer very good equipment levels for the money, and if you get them on sale are likely to be about the same price as the groupset alone).

joneve

Axe_meister said:

Well I am a hairy bastard at the best of times. My cars are both new and not cheap. By bike is a cheap Decathlon and my mamil outfit is again cheapest of the cheap and short sleeve. 

The Decathlon bikes are generally solid and well made, so you'll be fine with it for a while.

Mine is one of their mid-range models which cost less than £700 brand new....if you compare to other brand bikes with similar spec (not entry level wheels, Shimano 105 Groupset, internal cabling etc), you're looking at well over £1000. They provide EXCELLENT value for money and their frames are generally considered some of the best in the lower-end market. 

Axe_meister

Mine is a Triban RX120. Had it wrong on the gears, It's 8+2 so a 16 Speed
Microshift 11 x 34 cassette
(11/13/15/18/21/24/28/34)
Shimano Tourney double chainring 50/34 bottom bracket.
Cranks: XS, S, M: 170mm.L, XL: 175mm
Bottom bracket with integrated bearing
Carbon Fork

Mark1960

I enjoy cycling but get a tingling sensation at the end of my knob after about 15 minutes, and if I carry on it goes completely numb. I've tried adjusting the seat, bought a gel seat, but nothing seems to sort it.  At my age this is not a good thing so I stick to 10 minutes max in the gym. Ah well such is life.

LastMantra

My advice would be always head off up-hill/into the wind. That way it's easier coming back 
I live on the west coast of Scotland...it's always hilly and windy!

I use cycling for my physical but also (possibly moreso) my mental health. I don't do roads though. Not busy ones anyway. 

Don't do lycra either 

Axe_meister

Have to say the padded Lycra shorts are a god send. Even on a padded saddle by bum seems to bruise within seconds

joneve

Axe_meister said:

Have to say the padded Lycra shorts are a god send. Even on a padded saddle by bum seems to bruise within seconds

Padded saddles are fake news. On longer rides you'll find it chafes more. 

Once you've done some regular riding for 2 weeks or so, your bum will be come accustomed to the saddle. The padded shorts definitely help, but I can cycle 50+ miles in a tri suit which as a pad as thin as a lady's monthly sanitary towel thingy without any issues as your bum just gets used to it. 

littlegreenman

Axe_meister said:

Mine is a Triban RX120. Had it wrong on the gears, It's 8+2 so a 16 Speed
Microshift 11 x 34 cassette
(11/13/15/18/21/24/28/34)
Shimano Tourney double chainring 50/34 bottom bracket.
Cranks: XS, S, M: 170mm.L, XL: 175mm
Bottom bracket with integrated bearing
Carbon Fork

With 34/34 for the ups and 50/11 for the downs, you won't need more gears.

crunchman

littlegreenman said:

Axe_meister said:

Mine is a Triban RX120. Had it wrong on the gears, It's 8+2 so a 16 Speed
Microshift 11 x 34 cassette
(11/13/15/18/21/24/28/34)
Shimano Tourney double chainring 50/34 bottom bracket.
Cranks: XS, S, M: 170mm.L, XL: 175mm
Bottom bracket with integrated bearing
Carbon Fork

With 34/34 for the ups and 50/11 for the downs, you won't need more gears.

It's not just the top and bottom - it's the gaps between the gears.  When you have more gears, it's rarer to find that situation where one gear is slightly too low and you are spinning a bit too fast, but the next gear is that little bit too hard to push.