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I recently got ShotScopenV2 so will be tracking a lot
more stats over coming months. Really impressed with it.
I use Taylormade woods and hybrids all regular flex, Nike Pro Combo forged irons and Nike Method M4 putter. carried in a Callaway Hyper Lite Zero bag.
I use a TM burner utility 3 and have taken the 3 and 4 iron out my bag.
My putter is a Slighter Tacoma Custom that I had made about ten to fifteen years back, when I was really into it!
I can't help about the shape I'm in, I can't sing I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you, I might not give the answer that you want me to
I would recommend getting professionally fit. A proper fit..not someone simply letting you try a few different clubs in an American Golf Discount, which is a complete waste of time. Find somewhere with a track man or a GC Quad, and someone who can optimise lie angles, launch angles, spin rates etc.
I have been invited by a mates wife (she works for Callaway) to go down for a custom fit but haven't been as don't really want to buy clubs at Callaway prices.
Really though to answer, I want steel shafts as mine are graphite and want a new, shiny box fresh set.
Next most important clubs in your bag are your scoring irons. 8 iron to sandwedge. Make or brand is almost irrelevant if they suit your game. Get the grips replaced every couple of years. Learn how to hit shots from 120 metres in using most of your irons. Hit it low or high, run in or pitch onto green.
Important clubs are what are described as utility woods - 5 woods, 7 woods etc. These are extremely versatile clubs and work equally well off the tee on Par 3 holes.
The least important clubs are the woods and long irons. Yet these are the clubs that are most promoted and cost the most. There might just be a connection! Macho but effective if your technique is spot on. Be aware that the driver is often the club that sends you scarpering into the woods. If you need to go long off the tee, a 3 wood is almost as long as a driver and a lot straighter.
Pro golfers assess every hole from the green back to the tee. So play to the position where you are comfortable hitting one of your scoring irons to the green. Less wows from your playing partners but you will end up taking their money home anyway. It is a price worth paying.
Nil Satis Nisi Optimum
Look the best and feel the best. Their JPX forged range are great if the MPs are a bit on the ‘bladey’/muscle side for you.
The most important clubs if you want to lower your scores are the driver and whatever you use for approach shots, be that irons or hybrids. Getting on or as to close to the green in 2 should be your aim. Being able to hit a driver 250 straight and follow it up with a 180 approach is so so much more important than putting.
I know which I prefer.
Nil Satis Nisi Optimum
I improved fairly quick but last few months I am not getting any better - just last sunday I had the worst game since December last year - I find that few visits to the range help a lot
Buts let’s assume we are just for shits and giggles.
http://datagolfblogs.ca/which-is-more-important-putting-or-ball-striking/
Long game accounts for 3 times more separation between pros than putting does over the long term,
and by long term we just remove the week to week variance in putting all golfers have.
Look at it another way thinking about what equipment is most important - you have to play a round tomorrow and you have a choice to use either a 50yr old putter or a 50 yr old driver and long irons. You would be foolish not to choose the putter (unless you were just trying to prove a point)
On any given day I can putt 30 in a round, occasionally. So can a pro. But I’m yet to occasionally shoot 65 - because I don’t have the long game to be able to score like that.
Sure you remember the putts sinking but that’s an emotional response which has little to do with improving you scores.
Im heading here next year -
https://www.thraciancliffs.com/golf.php