Run out of acetone and need to strip your Gibson?

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p90foolp90fool Frets: 31577
edited July 2019 in Guitar
Use gaffa tape!

I just lightly scored a line in the finish, stuck a strip of gaffa tape on it and lifted the nitro straight off. 

The gold and the sealer come off with just a little light sanding, no fuss, no mess.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2ebwoef.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2hg8v7l.jpg
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Comments

  • King85King85 Frets: 631
    :open_mouth: 

    How are you going to refinish it?
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31577
    No idea!
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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18729
    Great tip.
    Two questions,
    1) Why do it at all, looks like you had a nice aged patina going on?
    2) Are you going to Mick Ronson or Marc Bolan finish it?  :3

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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31577
    Great tip.
    Two questions,
    1) Why do it at all, looks like you had a nice aged patina going on?
    2) Are you going to Mick Ronson or Marc Bolan finish it?  :3

    1) Got bored 

    2) Probably the latter, if you mean a car crash, I'm rubbish at this :)
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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18729
    Stick with guitar staining & avoid Mini's & trees  ;)
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  • merlinmerlin Frets: 6674
    Reminds me of the old saying, "If you can't fix it with gaffer tape, you're not using enough". 
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  • victorludorumvictorludorum Frets: 1014
    Will they ever invent gaffer tape that's strong enough to rip the finish of a poly finished Fender though? That's the question!
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7027
    tFB Trader
    What?! Isn't this your #1?
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31577
    Yes it is @SteveRobinson ;

    The truth is it was ageing but not in a nice way, you only had to look at it (or have a lead singer bash it with a tambourine every other gig) for chunks of finish to fall off. 

    The forearm wear was greening nicely and the lacquer has worn through on the back of the neck in places through sheer workload, but every accidental chip or ding just looked a bit crap tbh. 

    Anyway, it's done, and it appears to have a one-piece top with a bit of a Jupiter's Storm thing going on, which I quite like. 

    I was expecting all kinds of horrors from a recent LP which was selected to become a goldtop, but it's tidier than most stripped solid colour standards I've seen, including a few famous ones. 

    Initial thoughts are Black Top if I can be arsed, or just slap some clear or tinted nitro on it and bung it back together, bearing in mind I only have one weekend off gigging. 

    http://i63.tinypic.com/2m4zvaw.jpg
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  • earwighoneyearwighoney Frets: 3494
    p90fool said:
    Yes it is @SteveRobinson ;

    The truth is it was ageing but not in a nice way, you only had to look at it (or have a lead singer bash it with a tambourine every other gig) for chunks of finish to fall off. 

    The forearm wear was greening nicely and the lacquer has worn through on the back of the neck in places through sheer workload, but every accidental chip or ding just looked a bit crap tbh. 

    Anyway, it's done, and it appears to have a one-piece top with a bit of a Jupiter's Storm thing going on, which I quite like. 

    I was expecting all kinds of horrors from a recent LP which was selected to become a goldtop, but it's tidier than most stripped solid colour standards I've seen, including a few famous ones. 

    Initial thoughts are Black Top if I can be arsed, or just slap some clear or tinted nitro on it and bung it back together, bearing in mind I only have one weekend off gigging. 

    http://i63.tinypic.com/2m4zvaw.jpg
    That's actually a really nice looking piece of maple. 

    Great work so far, look forward to seeing how it progresses. 
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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18729
     That is a rather nice looking top, seems a shame to bury it again?
    I know, get a Harley Benton to gig with for a while & take some time to finish this   D
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7027
    tFB Trader
    You can always seal with a coat of lacquer then come back to it when you have more time.
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  • IvisonGuitarsIvisonGuitars Frets: 6838
    tFB Trader
    Oooh, nice! I think I’d go aged/faded plain top burst or an aged gold top but with the proper bronze powders :)
    http://www.ivisonguitars.com
    (formerly miserneil)
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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18729
    ^ +1 aged/faded plain top burst. Bit of a cliche, but would look great & you'd keep the wood visible.
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  • skullfunkerryskullfunkerry Frets: 4168
    Orange sparkle! :D 
    Too much gain... is just about enough \m/

    I'm probably the only member of this forum mentioned by name in Whiskey in the Jar ;)

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  • KittyfriskKittyfrisk Frets: 18729
    Orange whip.
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31577
    edited July 2019
    Well here we are, two days later and it's nearly done. I've just mocked it up to see if I like it and it's looking ok.

    It's a two piece centre-joined top with a bit of subtle flame in the right light and although not the prettiest it's generally quite a pleasant surprise to find it under a modern gold top - I was expecting multiple joins in awkward places and knots everywhere. 

    So, one can of Northwest Guitars amber nitro (which was a scarily baked bean orange when first applied) and a bit of elbow grease and I'm quite pleased with my amateurish efforts, though I'll be happy never to have to hand scrape any binding ever again. 

    EDIT; It's not quite that lemony in real life.

    http://i65.tinypic.com/2zejfuv.jpg
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  • JD50JD50 Frets: 658
    edited July 2019

    Looks great

    I'm still undecided on what colour to refinish my Musicmaster, I had thought of using a Wudtone stain/dye but would prefer a solid colour as the wood figuring is not great.

    Just looked at the Northwest Guitars website & they state that their Nitro Aerosol should need no sanding between coats.... Is that your experience?

    I'm tempted by either their Vintage white or Lake Placid Blue.

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  • TINMAN82TINMAN82 Frets: 1846
    Great plain top figure, looks fantastic
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7027
    tFB Trader
    JD50 said:

    Just looked at the Northwest Guitars website & they state that their Nitro Aerosol should need no sanding between coats.... Is that your experience?

    There is no need to "key" between coats because lacquer dries by evaporation and each subsequent coat partially redissoves the previous one so bonding with it.  Only sand if you get a run or dust in the finish.
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