Stupid switch question?

RobertW

Hi, was wondering if someone would be good enough to help me; I'm just about to start to do my first pickup replacement, I bought the below switch: Could someone please let me know the direction I put the switch in please? Does the number 1 go towards the neck or the bridge end?

gringopig

gringopig

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FelineGuitars

Instal it and use a multimeter to see which contacts are active in which switch positions and wire it accordingly

RobertW

gringopig said:

Hmmm. I would imagine you put the switch in with the 'P' of 'Patent' nearest the bridge  er neck

I'd 100% agree with you but the diagram I'm working off looks like it's the other way around, that's what's confusing me, I've emailed Irongear about it, I was just hoping for a definite answer while I had my iron out so to speak. 
Cheers though. 
This is the diagram that's causing the issue: 

Andyjr1515

As @FelineGuitars says, they will work either way round, it's a symmetrical switch either side of the centre position.

 So if using output pole 1, the connections of 2&3; 4&5; 6&7 will have exactly the same effect as using output pole 8 and connecting 6&7; 4&5; 2&3

Andyjr1515

Andyjr1515 said:

As @FelineGuitars says, they will work either way round, it's a symmetrical switch either side of the centre position.

 So if using output pole 1, the connections of 2&3; 4&5; 6&7 will have exactly the same effect as using output pole 8 and connecting 6&7; 4&5; 2&3

Correct that bottom bit....

So yes - it's going to be symmetrical, so doesn't matter which way round.

But having picked up a similar Alpha switch from my bits box and my multimeter I probably have which pole does which wrong.  On mine, all the poles are separate and the two output poles are 4 & 5.

On mine, but using your picture above, with switch starting fully right and moving to the left, the 5 positions are:

Measuring from output pole 4

4 to 3
4 to 3&2
4 to 2
4 to 2&1
4 to 1

Measuring from output pole 5

5 to 8
5 to 8&7
5 to 7
5 to 7&6
5 to 6

As @FelineGuitars says, a multimeter (cheap one will do fine as long as it measures ohms resistance) is very useful when working out what switches are doing...and for diagnosing when you finally plug in and hear no sound

Andyjr1515

Just had a look at the Axetec site....the switch function photo you posted didn't come through on my tablet.   

So yes - that is an exceptionally unhelpful diagram....but actually is saying the same as I have described above.  Crucial, though, is that the second photo shows that poles 2&3 and poles 6&7 are UNjoined.  Easy to do with a file or wire cutters if your actual switch has them joined.

So, assuming the switch is in your guitar exactly as your first photo, with the bridge at the right and the neck to the left (envisaging you holding the guitar in playing position):

Output goes to 4
Bridge to 3
Middle to 2
Neck to 1

Hope this helps

ICBM

Also, ignore the pot descriptions in that picture above - it shows Linear pots for the tone control. This is wrong, unless you deliberately want all the sweep in the bottom quarter of the turn - otherwise, tone controls should always be Log (A) taper. Volumes can be either, although Log is more common.

Why this mistake persists, I'm not sure - I think it can only be because most people don't actually use the tone controls.

SteveRobinson

I don't understand the picture in the O/P.

Presumably "5P" is five position, yet lugs 2/3 and 6/7 are jumpered so it wouldn't work in, say, a Strat type guitar.

Andyjr1515

SteveRobinson said:

I don't understand the picture in the O/P.

Presumably "5P" is five position, yet lugs 2/3 and 6/7 are jumpered so it wouldn't work in, say, a Strat type guitar.

Yes, indeed - the photo from the Axetec site page to buy the switch, which is the first photo the OP posted, is wrong.  Axetec have an accompanying photo on the same page with the pole designations and that one shows the poles  unbridged, which is as they should be.  Not sure whether what they have sent the OP is the (correct) unbridged one... @RobertW ?

Funkfingers

The basic 5P switch can operate either way about. I would orient the PCB towards the outer edge of the control cavity. 

4 and 5 are the outputs for each pole of the switch. They are always in circuit. Hence, the jumper can remain in situ.

The internal contact wipers for each pole revolve about a central axis. When the lever is towards the end of the PCB marked with the 1, terminals 1 and 6 are in circuit. When the lever is central, terminals 2 and 7 are in circuit. When the lever is towards the 8 end, terminals 3 and 8 are in circuit. For the two "in between" lever positions, adjacent terminals are bridged.

SteveRobinson said:

I don't understand the picture in the O/P.

Presumably "5P" is five position, yet lugs 2/3 and 6/7 are jumpered so it wouldn't work in, say, a Strat type guitar.

Well spotted.

Ironically, those factory-made jumped connections would be perfect on a 3P switch for Telecaster.

SteveRobinson

Funkfingers said:

SteveRobinson said:

I don't understand the picture in the O/P.

Presumably "5P" is five position, yet lugs 2/3 and 6/7 are jumpered so it wouldn't work in, say, a Strat type guitar.

Well spotted.

Ironically, those factory-made jumped connections would be perfect on a 3P switch for Telecaster.

Yes and I have seen them made like that.

I thought the OP must be either (i) a real switch incorrectly assembled from incompatible parts or (ii) an image composite.

Andyjr1515

I think it's just wrong photos on the Axetec website.  https://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_049.htm

The 2 photos of the back and front of the SW006 show the jumpers across 2&3 and 6&7, which is not correct against the description of what is being sold.  The third photo, illustrating the contact arrangement, is actually different and is the correct switch...which I presume is what they are actually sending.

Funkfingers

If the switch is exactly as per the OP photograph, it could serve in a Stratocaster by breaking the jumped connection between terminals 2 and 3.

1 = bridge PU
2 = middle PU
3 = neck PU
4 and 5 = output to master volume pot
6 and 7 = connection to lower tone pot
8 = connection to upper tone pot

gringopig

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SteveRobinson

The connection from switch to volume pot is wrong in that diagram

SteveRobinson

And the tone pots require an earth connection

ICBM

SteveRobinson said:

The connection from switch to volume pot is wrong in that diagram

Yes, it should go to terminal 5 and not 6. That wiring will not work at all unless the switch is in the bridge or bridge+middle position.

6 should have no connection for vintage Strat wiring. 6 and 7 can be linked if you want the lower tone control to work on the bridge pickup as well as the middle.

SteveRobinson said:

And the tone pots require an earth connection

Presumably ignored on the basis that it will be completed by the shielding foil, but we've done that already .

SteveRobinson

ICBM said:

SteveRobinson said:

And the tone pots require an earth connection

Presumably ignored on the basis that it will be completed by the shielding foil, but we've done that already .

That might be a rash assumption. Here is a Tokai ES I've just taken a look at as it's "a bit buzzy". How is this tone control supposed to work? It looks like original unmolested wiring too.

Also it has unshielded wires to the switch, will fix that too.

gringopig

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