Re-gluing Maple cap on body

danban

As title suggests, I’m picking up a Les Paul that will require the maple cap regluing to the body.

What would be the best route to do this?

guitargeek62

Probably some type of glue I suspect.

alexh

Clamps too I reckon, lots of them. Is it entirely detached or only partially?

danban

Only partially 

Andyjr1515

It will depend on how much is parted.  Post some photos when you get it.

I've done a couple of saves on 60's & 70's bass guitars where this has happened.  What you need to do is quite different depending if it is a small area or where it requires the total panel removing first.  The type of glue might need to be different in those cases too.

In all cases, you will need some suitable 'proper' G/C screw clamps - but again, how many will depend on the above.

When you post the photos I can give you a view and point you to some detailed threads on one of the bass forums of how I tackled them (including the inevitable surprise challenges )  

danban

.

danban

It’s parted from the lower horn/bout to just past the jack plate.
The rest of the top is attached and solid.

Andyjr1515

Hi @danban ;; - the pics help enormously.

First the normal cautionary note:  If this is a particularly sought-after guitar (ie 'vintage') then don't do anything.  In those cases, anything but a full pro refurb job by a competent vintage instrument restorer will potentially drastically reduce its value - even (sometimes 'especially') below reselling in its present condition.


Otherwise, yes - this is fixable.  There are a few ifs and buts.  And always remember that below is simply how I personally do this kind or job...don't assume it is the only way or even the best way.


Question - if you press reasonably hard at the sides, fingers round the back and thumbs pressing the raised maple from the top, can you completely close the gap?


If the answer is yes, then normally what I would use is -



- Titebond Original is probably the most used wood glue in guitar building.  Forget trying B&Q etc...quality builders merchant or ebay is your best bet


- a small syringe (I use 10mL ones they use for getting medicine down pets throats).  No needle!


- 'proper' steel screw clamps ...and the more the better


- shaped plywood or similar packers to spread the clamp load and protect the top from the not-inconsiderable clamping forces


As it is around the control chamber area, it would be best to take the electrics out first - not least because the chamber will end up with a lot of squeeze-out.  Popping a bit of masking tape round the inside of the control chamber will help reduce this. 

I would shine a torch into the gap and have a look at the state of the wood and how much displaced bits there are that might prevent the gap closing.  


Titebond works best when it is glueing wood to wood so I would use some emery cloth (Wilko do a great assorted grit pack dirt cheap) and 'floss' the gap as best I could.  I would then run a piece of printer paper through the gap to loosen any bits that might have accumulated and go at it with the hoover.  


I would cut my ply cauls to suit the areas I am going to clamp (both sides).  Note that this split is around the control chamber.  You must only clamp the areas where there is solid wood behind it.  Any clamping on the maple over chamber area itself will break the top.


I would then fill my syringe, hold it against the gap and squeeze as much glue in as far as I can along the whole split length (another reason to use masking tape in the control chamber )

Then clamp tightly, ensuring that the joint is fully closed, with as many clamps as you can get on it and leave a full 12 hours or more before unclamping.

This was one I did in the same area on a beautiful (and valuable) Sei bass.  This had some specific issues where more flexible MDF needed to be used - but note that the clamps are around the sides of the control chamber and not over the chamber.  It had a flat top and back and hence I could use large pieces of packing.  The Les Paul top is carved and so you would need to use strips of ply like in the first photo to go round the flatter edge.  This used four clamps for a split of only 6cm in length! 





Back to the 'ifs and buts'

If
- the inside of the joint is badly water stained, or there is clearly lots of dry glue and crud rather than wood showing

or
- try as you might, you can't physically close the gap with your thumbs and fingers


, then wood glue probably won't hold it.  In that case I would generally use a decent quality two part epoxy, mixed and syringed in the same way. 

The epoxy I would use would be from a decent quality medium strength one such as Zpoxy:



I've even used the old fashioned 24 hour original Araldite for maximum strength!  In both cases (ignore the '30 minute' badge above) leave a full 24 hours clamped.

Finally, for the gaps at the horn itself where the top hasn't actually parted - but might in the future, I would 'wick' some thin CA glue into the hairline gap - capillary action will suck the CA deep into the fissure and clamp in the same way (probably 30 minutes clamping time).  This should prevent the weakened joint splitting and moving in the future.


Hope this helps.  Let us know how you get on.

Doodlegame

Wow... good luck with that man, let us know how it goes!

danban

.

SteveRobinson

And? And...?

danban

Damn smart phones.

Sorted, job done. Thanks everyone.

Andyjr1515

danban said:

Damn smart phones.

Sorted, job done. Thanks everyone.

Excellent