S Curve in neck

Richardrichard

HI All, strange problem looking for thoughts. 12 string acoustic sat on a stand relatively unused for a year or two, noticed on a recent playing that the high frets were too high, most stuff played towards the end of the neck was just fretting out. Was clear that the higher frets were sort of collapsing into the sound hole. I' had to loosen the truss rod to get it to the current playable position but you can see in below pic the clear S shape of the curve.

Have read about resetting the neck but not sure it applies here. Any thoughts on solution?

ESBlonde

I can't tell from the single photo properly, but it could be that the soundboard has started to 'belly up' and therefore the end of the fingerboard is sinking.

Can you hear or feel any loose supports in the body, it might beone or more are loose allowing the face to move.

I think an in the hand appraisal by a proper luthier is in order. Then you will know the symptoms and the cure. It might make your wallet sick, but could be quite reasoanable if it's just a loose strut and a reset of the truss rod.

brucegill

Looks like you have a ton of relief. Most fingerboards slope off at the body by design. 

artiebear

Thats a lot of relief. Too much relief will cause the upper frets (usually noticeable around 14/15th ) to fret out. A neck reset is more a fix for the body bellying up behind the bridge, causing a high action which can no longer be alleviated by lowering the saddle.

Kittyfrisk

ESBlonde said:

I can't tell from the single photo properly, but it could be that the soundboard has started to 'belly up' and therefore the end of the fingerboard is sinking.

Can you hear or feel any loose supports in the body, it might beone or more are loose allowing the face to move.

I think an in the hand appraisal by a proper luthier is in order. Then you will know the symptoms and the cure. It might make your wallet sick, but could be quite reasoanable if it's just a loose strut and a reset of the truss rod.

Agreed about the bellying, surprising it doesn't happen more given the tension that 12 strings exert.
Also the neck relief needs looking at. Trip to an experienced technician/luthier   

Richardrichard

The relief isn't the issue, I had to do that to stop it fretting out, otherwise there's basically 0 action at that high point.

artiebear

Where exactly is it fretting out ? Just to see what's going on, you could try shimming the saddle and taking some of that relief out of the neck. If the strings aren't clearing the fretboard tongue frets, that would suggest that either the fretboard hump as the body and neck meet has increased ( every guitar displays this to some degree as the tongue trails away to the sound hole, or there has been some sinkage around the bridge area meaning that the saddle is no longer adequately clearing the hump. Soundboard bellying would normally mean that you have an increased action ( not uncommon on 12 strings ) along with potential extra relief due to the prolonged effects of string tension.

ICBM

That looks like it has both a nasty s-bend in the neck and a bad belly in the top combined with sinking in front of the bridge.

What make/model is it?

Richardrichard

Thanks all useful thoughts, I guess a tech is probably required. Guitar is a Fender DG41 paid maybe £300 used 10 years ago so not entirely convinced it's worth throwing money at, though it is proper wood rather than laminate. @SteveRobinson isn't too far away and was thinking of taking a couple of self build electrics over there for a setup anyway so maybe I'll bring it along for an opinion.

ICBM

Richardrichard said:

Thanks all useful thoughts, I guess a tech is probably required. Guitar is a Fender DG41 paid maybe £300 used 10 years ago so not entirely convinced it's worth throwing money at, though it is proper wood rather than laminate. @SteveRobinson isn't too far away and was thinking of taking a couple of self build electrics over there for a setup anyway so maybe I'll bring it along for an opinion.

Unfortunately I think you're probably right. Steve will be able to give a hands-on opinion - always better when you can actually see it in person - but if it needs a neck reset and/or the top re-bracing then it will exceed the value of the guitar. If it looks like it can be pulled back into shape with a combination of the truss rod and/or a 'Bridge Doctor' brace then it would be worth trying.

artiebear

Sounds good. Let us know how you get on, It would be great if it could be sorted.