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It's become more difficult now because many modern power supplies produce "hum" interference which sounds buzzy - but it's fairly easy to tell them apart -
If turning the guitar orientation round alters or cancels the noise, it's hum (from pickup coils), and if it doesn't but touching the strings or metalwork on the guitar alters or stops the noise, it's buzz (from unshielded wiring).
Most humbucking pickups do also have shielded cabling, so it's normally only any exposed wiring in the control cavities which causes buzz, but uncovered pickup coils do also contribute.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I assumed Peter Belt and his ludicrous nonsense had long since disappeared, but apparently not!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
One of my strats is fitted with Kinmans. If I have a problem, I use that one, or a humbucker equipped guitar. If buzz (or hum or whatever) is a big enough issue at a gig (for example with induction hearing loops which are a nightmare) then shielding won’t make enough difference imo.
That's true up to a point, but recently the guitar player in my band bought a humbucker guitar which sounded great and didn't hum, but it did buzz - badly and annoyingly, with any amount of gain. I found that it was fitted with unshielded wire from the jack to the control cavity - simply replacing this with shielded cable fixed the problem completely.
Most Gibson-style humbucker guitars are *also* shielded properly from the factory - usually with fully shielded cable throughout - and most vintage-style Fenders are not, so you might think they are the same problem, but they're actually not.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Check the switch cavity and see if it's the same there too.
If that doesn't make enough difference, foil on the back of the backplate and round the walls of the cavity will probably do it, as long as you make sure they're both connected to ground - it doesn't work at all otherwise.
The amount of unshielded wire which was causing the trouble in the guitar I mentioned was about the same as the combined length of unshielded wire there, if it matters.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If you play live regularly, surrounded by lights/equipment and therefore more susceptible to interference, then a good idea.
But only if you get interference.
ie. if it's not broke, don't try to fix it.
https://sixstringsupplies.co.uk/
Our YouTube Channel for handy "How-To" Wiring Tutorials
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I dont know why but I wipe them with tumble dryer anti-static sheet like Bounce and it goes away for a few days