Rickenbacker 101

UnclePsychosis

Hey guys

I've always loved the aesthetic of rickenbackers and a lot of guitarists I like have used them but I know almost nothing about them. 

I really love the 620 and the 330/360 in particular. 

1. Is there much difference between a 330 and a 630 360 other than looks? 
2. How does a 620 differ in sound to a 330/630 330/360?
3. Has the spec changed much over the years? Are the neck shapes etc consistent across the years? 
4. Anything a rick noob should be aware of before trying some out (post lockdown)...

Edit: 

I realise I messed up my model numbers. 

What I meant to ask was whether a 330 and a 360 sound basically the same, because I'm interested in either a 620 or a {330/360}

AlexO

Doesn't really answer your questions directly but my experience and a nice little story.

My first proper guitar was a Rickenbacker 330. I was obsessed with The Jam and Paul Weller as a teenager and fancied myself as a bit of a mod. 
I got a 330 in a sonic blue colour, new for about 800 quid from a shop in Chester. I was just gravitating to lead playing and joined my first band. 

I loved it but really struggled to play it. I found the nut and neck very narrow and the pups very vintage sounding. I didn't really know what I was doing tbf, not that I know now either 15 years later.
 I soon got offered a Gibson 335 in a trade for it which became my main guitar for years.

I always found the Ricky a bit of a one trick pony and my playing certainly wasn't strong enough to go down the Johnny Marr route with it at the time.

I worked in a posh designer clothes shop in Manchester throughout Uni and Paul Weller came in shopping one day( he was playing the arena that evening) I had a bit of a chat with him and told him I was struggling with this Rickenbacker. 
He asked if I played Rhythm or Lead and I said lead and he said thats the issue, they aren't built for that.

Funkfingers

1 - Not as much as Mr. Hall would have you believe.
2 - Solid versus semi-hollow is one difference. The type of pickup is another. A third pickup introduces sonic variety but at the expense of speed of changing between sounds.
3 - Some spec details change year on year. Others seem locked in a time warp. Necks finished by hand-guiding sanding are slightly variable.
4 - Take a raw onion with you. This will excuse your tears when you see the retail prices and order turnaround waiting period.

ICBM

UnclePsychosis said:

1. Is there much difference between a 330 and a 630 other than looks? 
2. How does a 620 differ in sound to a 330/630?
3. Has the spec changed much over the years? Are the neck shapes etc consistent across the years? 
4. Anything a rick noob should be aware of before trying some out (post lockdown)...

1. Yes.

2. The 620 is a small solidbody, has a sharper/brighter tone and is usually slightly headstock-heavy. The 330 is semi-hollow and has more of the classic Rick chime. Both come with the modern High Gain pickups rather than the vintage ‘Toasters’ - louder and much more midrangy. The 620 also has stereo wiring (like the 360), but you don’t have to use it. The 330 is mono only.

3. No, and no! The widths have remained completely consistent since the dawn of time, but the profile and to some extent the depth has varied enormously.

4. Good question... the necks are narrow, which a lot of people don’t get on with (but I love). The controls are odd if you’re used to Gibsons - both the positions and the taper of the volume controls, and the small 5th knob (which is very useful when you understand it). The strings feel ‘high up in the air’ relative to the body on both these models (but not the 400 series).

Beyond that, you probably just need to try one - you either love them or hate them immediately, usually.

And forget the idea that they’re ‘only rhythm guitars’ - it’s true that they’re not as suitable for modern high-gain lead as something like a Jackson, and they don’t have the smooth sustain of a Les Paul, but you very much can play lead on them if you want to.

stickyfiddle

I've never played a 620, but have really liked every 330/360 I've played, and had custody of a mate's 325 for a while which was great fun. I don't find the narrow nuts a big issue, it just takes a little getting used to. They sound almost a cross between a good Gretsch and Tele but with more chime all round, and now I think about it I'm not quite sure why I've never had one.

I also don't understand the 5th knob, despite having read descriptions at least half a dozen times.

EDIT: I just found this on youtube. Seems clear now, particularly as a hangover from vintage models where the neck pickup was considerably louder than the bridge

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjAd69A5ZyU

SRD81

I’ve had two Rickenbackers, both 325s, so I’m not that qualified to comment on other models, although I’ve played a few 330s/360s over the years.

I’m a massive Beatles fan and was hankering after that early rhythm sound and iconic looks. Unsurprisingly the 325s nailed the sound perfectly through my Vox AC30, but I just couldn’t get on with the narrow nut width. I should mention that 325s are also 3/4 scale which undoubtedly had a huge influence on how difficult they were to play.

I eventually sold both guitars with the plan to try out a 330 instead. But when I played a few, I found the same issues down at the nut end that made even playing open chords trickier than it should be, even for someone of my questionable ability!

I would definitely recommend playing as many as possible before pulling the trigger, not always easy though as many UK stores tend to not have a huge selection in my experience.

Overall my experience of Rickenbackers has been - excellent build quality, fit and finish. Beautiful to look at, but just too much ‘fight’ to play and quite a niche range of sounds.

Cheers

dogload

I used to have a 610 (which is to the 620 what the 330 is to the 360, if that makes sense. ie mono and without binding etc). It was a great-sounding guitar - tight and punchy - but had a ridiculously narrow neck which used to cause my fretting hand to cramp, which is why I felt compelled to move it on.

The necks on 360s are quite comfortable really, although the 12-strings do take a bit of getting used to. My main reservation of the neck is the lacquering, which can feel a bit 'sticky'. 

The pickups are a lot darker than you might expect and you may find that you need to dial in much more reble on your amp than you would for a Strat for example.

And as ICBM says, they do  make excellent lead guitars; just of a different kind!

TonyR

I’ve owned a number of Rickenbackers over the years, my first was a 1998PT Pete Townshend (which I still have and still love). I then got a Jetglo 330/6, a Fireglo 381/12 and a Jetglo 620/12.

The 330 had the standard hi-gain pickups which are beefier than the vintage pickups on the PT. In terms of playability there wasn’t a great deal of difference between the two guitars.

The 381/12 was a beautiful guitar but I called it “The Beast” as it was a heavy lump! 

The 620/12 was bought on a bit of a whim and after I’d had it a while I decided I didn’t like the body shape, so I sold it.

I sold the 330 and the 381 (thankfully I kept the PT) after falling in love with Gretsch, however I discovered I’m actually a Rickenbacker man. 

So I now have a mapleglo 330/6 and a mapleglo 4003 bass, I just need a (mapleglo) 360/12 and I’ll be sorted.

A lot of people don’t get on with Rickenbackers as the necks are very slim, but that’s not a problem for me as I have relatively small hands. You asked about consistency of the necks and I can honestly say all of mine have been pretty much identical.

Something else to bear in mind is they also have gloss necks, again, not to everyone’s taste.

Forget the idea that they are a one trick pony, they’re not, they just have their own sound.

If you are considering one, I wouldn’t buy new, they are ridiculously priced. There are plenty of nice second hand ones about. I paid £1250 for my mapleglo 330 and it’s absolutely mint.

Wazmeister

I've owned 20 - 30 across the years, due to being a Weller/Jam fan/Mod and later into The Smiths, Icicle Works etc.
Here are some of my thoughts to try and answer your questions;

1. Is there much difference between a 330 and a 630 other than looks? 

Lots of difference. The 620 is a solid body Ricky, which has a less 'chimey' sound. My 620 was def duller than my other Rickies, BUT still had its own solid body sound. I absolutely loved the neck on my 620.

The 330 gives you that jangly and aggressive tone which they are famous for.


2. How does a 620 differ in sound to a 330/630?

See above


3. Has the spec changed much over the years? Are the neck shapes etc consistent across the years? 

There is always a degree of hand finishing across all Rickenbackers, but post 2000 models do seem more consistent and similar to me. Having said that, I do seem to prefer the older ones and I do think that they age well; in terms of looks AND sound and feel...

I have only one now - a 1994 (year) 360/12 WB. This is very stable indeed, and really seems to hold its tuning. The pick ups have incredible output on this particular one for some reason; I think it was @ICBM who said that some of the 80s and 90s models were wound louder.


4. Anything a rick noob should be aware of before trying some out (post lockdown)...

They vary incredibly in terms of tuning stability. In fact, a small minority are absolute dogs to tune. Playing them is essential to see how in tune they stay...

The necks are sticky and glossy, and combined with a glossy fretboard on some, makes for a 'slower' play.

Parts are pretty easy to get hold off on the whole, except for the TRC name headstock covers. You will pay a fair amount for one of these (best to get a supply of em if you can - when they come up cheap)

They still remain THE best looking guitar ever made, imho.

Here's mine;

UnclePsychosis

Thanks guys. 

I realise I messed up my model numbers. 

What I meant to ask was whether a 330 and a 360 sound basically the same, because I'm interested in either a 620 or a {330/360}

I love the sound of the 12 strings but a 12 string at that price just isn't on the agenda. 

Oh, and the "not for lead" thing---I have too much good taste and not enough talent to be interested in widdly widdly lead guitars. 

Wazmeister

Ok, now I think that the 360 is generally a better guitar and a better play.

Maybe its the binding, Im not sure, but Id always lean towards a 360 over a 330. It is a more deluxe model, naturally.

However, the 330 looks are pretty iconic, with both sharp horns.

Soundwise, I cant say Ive ever noticed a difference....

Id def buy a 330/360 over a 620 anyway.

lasermonkey

Not a huge amount to add, but I have a 1990 330/6 and a friend recently bought one from '94. Whilst the neck widths feel identical, mine is shallower and feels very different. I can't say I prefer one over the other though.

I don't get the one trick pony label either. The high gain pickups have plenty of poke end go from incredibly bright to incredibly dark, with none of that horrible quackiness you get from *some* guitars I could mention. You can do a very convincing Sabbath on a 330/6!

JD50

If anyone thinks Ricks are only for jangle have a listen to Fugazi.

ICBM

UnclePsychosis said:

What I meant to ask was whether a 330 and a 360 sound basically the same 

Yes, they're essentially the same guitar except that the 360 has a rounded front edge, binding, fancy inlays and stereo wiring - but also can be used in mono - other than that they're identical, and ones from the same era with the same pickups should sound more or less the same.

The pickups have varied quite widely, but the design was stable throughout most of the 90s and 2000s, and are the ones like Wazmeister's. It's the earlier 80s-very early 90s ones which have a much hotter neck pickup (yes, neck!), and don't have the two black strips either side of the polepieces. Recent ones have Allen-key polepieces not plain studs, but I'm not 100% sure if they're actually adjustable, and given the fragile internal construction of RIC pickups it would be unwise to try without being certain... @OilCityPickups will know if he's had to repair any.

dogload

ICBM said:

UnclePsychosis said:

What I meant to ask was whether a 330 and a 360 sound basically the same 

Yes, they're essentially the same guitar except that the 360 has a rounded front edge, binding, fancy inlays and stereo wiring - but also can be used in mono - other than that they're identical, and ones from the same era with the same pickups should sound more or less the same.

The pickups have varied quite widely, but the design was stable throughout most of the 90s and 2000s, and are the ones like Wazmeister's. It's the earlier 80s-very early 90s ones which have a much hotter neck pickup (yes, neck!), and don't have the two black strips either side of the polepieces. Recent ones have Allen-key polepieces not plain studs, but I'm not 100% sure if they're actually adjustable, and given the fragile internal construction of RIC pickups it would be unwise to try without being certain... @OilCityPickups will know if he's had to repair any.

I've got hex-pole pieces in the pickups on my 360/12 and - not knowing any better - screwed them down a bit to try and 'de-beef' the sound a little. I can vouch that they still work (maybe just lucky!).

NervousJohn

Not a huge amount to add - I’ve only really played my own 1995 330/12 which was a dog to keep in tune but after about 10 years stabilised beautifully and is rock solid now. 

Something to bear in mind is that 330s and 360s are quite big guitars, and your physical size may influence your decision. I’m 6’1” and would look at a 620 as it would be comically small on me. 

There is this myth you can’t play lead on a Ric. What folks mean is, you can play pentawank blues scales and expect them to be the same. If you allow the guitar to influence what you play something gloriously original pops out and you suddenly have a sound of your own.

In short though I wouldn’t be without mine. 

pmg

I say get a 330 unless you want stereo and extra “bling”.  Personally I prefer the look of a 330.  Love my Ric 

Teyeplayer

pmg said:

I say get a 330 unless you want stereo and extra “bling”.  Personally I prefer the look of a 330.  Love my Ric 

Agreed, it’s one of only two guitars out of dozens that I regret letting go. Wonderful guitars.

iheartreverb

Hello.
Rics are some of my favourite guitars and my main is a 330 so although most people have covered this very well for you, I’ll just add my experiences,

yes the necks on all models you’ve listed are tiny- I actually found it to be more comfortable for me after getting hand cramps with vintage radius Fender. So not everyone’s experiences are the same.

the pickups are incredible versatile and someone has said “from very very dark to bright”- for me the 5th knob isn’t key to this. Someone else can explain how it’s  actually wired more than I can but it in effect “turns down” the neck pickup to allow it to balance with the bridges better in both the middle and isolated (neck) position. I would consider this to be a lost like blending a humbucker from a single coil given it’s so much louder and bassier in the all the way on mode. I find is massively useful and use it a bit like the rhythm circuit in a Jazzmaster if that makes sense.

some have commented on a 620 size but also consider that the wide horns on a 330 make it quite a big guitar. I’m considering selling mine to get a 620. 

In all they are a very versatile single coil guitar. You can play anything on it as long as you personally gel with it. There was quite a lot of use of them in the Seattle hardcore/ pre grunge bands- they aren’t just for jangle pop

I’ve been told 620 sound more like a tele given it’s solid construction. This has never really occurred to me on the occasions I’ve tried them as it just sounded like a Ricky. Worth noting that a 660 has a wider neck should this be useful to you. 

Hope this helps 

ICBM

iheartreverb said:

the pickups are incredible versatile and someone has said “from very very dark to bright”- for me the 5th knob isn’t key to this. Someone else can explain how it’s  actually wired more than I can but it in effect “turns down” the neck pickup to allow it to balance with the bridges better in both the middle and isolated (neck) position.

That's exactly what it does - it's often thought to be somehow mysterious or a 'blend' control for the two pickups (not helped by RIC's descriptions), but it's really much simpler than that - it's an extra volume control for the neck pickup, in series with the main one, that works in reverse and goes from full down to half... no more and no less.

But that means that in a two-pickup sound where the neck pickup is inherently louder than the bridge, it does act as a sort-of 'balance' control because it goes from the neck pickup dominating to the bridge pickup dominating as you turn it up from low to high.

Its original purpose seems to have been to compensate for the volume difference between the two pickups when the bridge pickup was fitted with the bass-cut 'vintage' cap, but it's still useful without that. The late-80s overwound neck pickup may have been part of that thinking too, but it still works well even when the pickups are the same output.

iheartreverb said:

I would consider this to be a lost like blending a humbucker from a single coil given it’s so much louder and bassier in the all the way on mode. I find is massively useful and use it a bit like the rhythm circuit in a Jazzmaster if that makes sense.

I actually add a treble-pass cap across the pot on mine, to make that more pronounced.

I also found the rhythm circuit very useful on my Jaguar, so it's obviously something that clicks with some players and not others!

thermionic

What causes the tuning problems with Ricks more than any other type of guitar then? I bought my first Rickenbacker about 3-4 years ago (a more or less pristine ‘99 330) and not noticed any tuning problems, apart from a Les-Paul style occasional flat G, which I would guess is caused by a less than perfect nut slot.

Funnily enough I’ve never really noticed the narrow neck thing, and the profile and depth feel more substantial than other guitars I own (Epi Les Paul, or MIM Classic 60s Strat for example).

The Hi-Gain pickups sound great to me - beefier than Fender single coils to get you into mid-period REM or Blue Aeroplanes sounds, but sweet and jangly, especially in the middle position. It’s not that you can’t play lead on a Rick, but like a Jaguar, I’m far more likely to play jangly arpeggios on it than I would on a Strat or Les Paul.

Prices are nuts though. There are a few beat-up instruments around at reasonable prices but you have to be very patient to get a clean one at a recent price. I got lucky.