What is the correct way to set up a Strat bridge?

RaymondLin

Is it picture 1 or 2?  It seems I seen some photos of the heel of it up and some are down.  Mine are currently down.  Is it a preference or there is a correct way?  Fender spec is 3.2mm which seems kinda high.  I think if I do that it will raise the action far too much and I will need a shim in the neck pocket.

John_A

All depends if you want upwards movement

Pros - Ability to do nice trem shimmers, tuning stability
Cons, double bends don't work as well, snap a string and you go out of tune

ICBM

For me 3.2mm is a bit high - I like to be able to pull up about a semitone on the top string, which usually needs it a bit flatter than that. But I do prefer them floating - I think they sound better like that.

The most important thing is not to overtighten the front pivot screws - you must be able to pull the bridge back to fully flat without the plate binding against the underside of the screw heads. It's easier to assess this without the strings on - and contrary to popular wisdom, there is no benefit to raising the middle four screws as long as they're all set correctly.

Chris_Bradley

if I do that it will raise the action far too much and I will need a shim in the neck pocket.

The action should be set with the saddle screws and not the tilt of the bridge. 

tone1

Inner screws raised slightly with 2 outer screws just touching... the photos look opposite to that 

https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/212774786-How-do-I-set-up-my-Stratocaster-guitar-properly-

RaymondLin

Chris_Bradley said:

if I do that it will raise the action far too much and I will need a shim in the neck pocket.

The action should be set with the saddle screws and not the tilt of the bridge. 

It is but the Low E is as low as it could go at the moment and it is at 1.75mm at the 12th fret.

RaymondLin

tone1 said:

Inner screws raised slightly with 2 outer screws just touching... the photos look opposite to that 

https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/212774786-How-do-I-set-up-my-Stratocaster-guitar-properly-

I haven't posted photo of my guitar, those are just photos showing the back of the bridge and one is touching and one is not. The question is which one is right/prefered really.

tone1

I like it just floating in Standard tuning but decks out flush to body in E-Flat 

guitars4you

flat or floating is a matter of taste

Some have it flat, with 5 springs and the trem will not  move - But they feel it adds more 'resonance'

Others still have it flat, but only a touch is required on the arm for down pitch

Others have a touch of up so only slightly raised

Others have more up pitch - J Beck amongst this preference

ref 3.2mm from Fender - I see nearly all C Shop models arrive like this and I adjust accordingly - I can't recall the last time any one required this option 

stonevibe

Usually, I would balance it determined on how much of an up bend/pitch up I want, as in a semi-tone for example. Or just deck it and get a little more sustain.

HandwrittenHero

Float, deck or block...floating let’s you shimmer with the bridge since got upward and downward movement but you have to bend further to reach pitch and a string break ends your night. Downtuning likely requires complete set up.

deck let’s you use the bridge purely downward, fixes some of the issues above.

block nothing is moving, it’s a hardtail basically. Gives you the most sustain.

All personal preference. I’ve literally just popped my strat to tech today and have it floating. If I was gigging it I’d have it decked. If I owned multiple strats I’d probably have a variety.

HandwrittenHero

Fun thing to do with floating by the way (ie picture 1) play the low e and let it ring, bend another string eg the G string at 15th fret bent up a whole step without plucking that string. 

ICBM

RaymondLin said:

It is but the Low E is as low as it could go at the moment and it is at 1.75mm at the 12th fret.

That sounds too low, assuming the rest of it is adjusted correctly. I usually end up with it around 2-2.5mm, although I don't normally measure it. 1.5-1.75mm on the top E would be about right.

You should be able to get it to about that with the bridge floating slightly and the saddle screws flush with the saddle tops for the Es, D and G, and just slightly above for the A and B. If not, a small shim fixes it.

Funkfingers

Floating, like OP photograph 1. Gap set to 3/32”. 

Yes. Raising the bridge baseplate will raise the saddles marginally. Adjust them downwards to compensate.

Neil

I have one floating and one screwed down.

If you hardly use the trem (like me) deck it.

stickyfiddle

I deck mine. I do enjoy a floating strat trem but I like double stops and those go to hell when you have the trem set floating. 

I obviously need a second strat...

RaymondLin

I can slide a piece of paper under it now...I kinda like it where it is so will leave it.

poopot

The correct way of course is:

1) remove trem arm
2) throw trem arm in bin
3) add five springs as below

4) deck the bridge flat to the body as below

5) enjoy the tonez - men will envy you - women will fall at your feet - you will become a guitar hero... ( works that way for me anyway )

axisus

Floating for the win

p90fool

I set them so that pulling the arm up all the way gives you a semitone up-bend on the B string and a whole tone on the G.

Great for country licks.