Bike handlebars - possible to change them?

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John_PJohn_P Frets: 2749
Apologies if this is a stupid question (as I suspect it is).   

I have a trek crossrip - like a road bike with slightly fatter wheels/tyres and drop handlebars.   
Bought it a couple of years ago and it’s been a great bike and I think the shops recommendation was spot on for a practical commuting bike I can use in trails.     
But I never use the drop bars and it would actually be more comfortable with mountain / hybrid bike bars for the upright position that doesn’t hurt my back on longer rides.    

Can I change it or would the shop laugh at the idea and I either accept what it is or get a new bike?    
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Comments

  • JezWyndJezWynd Frets: 6053
    Changing handlebars is usually a simple job you can do yourself. You might need to get new brake handles as the drop versions may not work with standard bars.
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 3679
    Yes you can but you’d need new stem, brake levers and shifters as a minimum. Also the geometry of road and mountain bikes is different so the handling may be compromised and the bike not as comfortable to ride. 
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  • strtdvstrtdv Frets: 2427
    Doable? Yes

    Does it make practical and economic sense? No

    As @drofluf has said, you'll need new brake levers, gear shifters and probably stem to avoid the geometry being ridiculous.
    Even then, the geometry will be significantly different, not only will your riding position change, but stem length will alter how stable the bike feels too
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  • John_PJohn_P Frets: 2749
    Thanks chaps.    I’ll leave it alone, I may have a play with raising the height of the bars a little though and see if that helps while I debate a longer term change.   
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  • What kind of brake calipers do you have, these may need changing too if not compatible with MTB/hybrid type brake levers. If you have hydraulic disc brakes this may end up being quite expensive.
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  • mrkbmrkb Frets: 6776
    Might be worth looking at flared drop bars. Extra width with less drop and a comfy angled hand position- I love them. On one or Plant Xshould do cheap versions..
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14411
    The change that might make economic sense is NPVC foam handlebar grips. 

    The removal/installation process is a bit of a faff but worth it. 

    Back pain or strain issues suggest that your bicycle geometry needs some adjustment.
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31519
    I changed my drop barred road bike to MTB bars, levers and changers a couple of years ago. It wasn't that big a deal really, and means I jump on it far more often than I used to. 

    Work out how many gears you have and start checking compatibility, you don't have to go crazy, price wise these days. I think I spent about 80 quid, which was better than having an expensive bike sat idle. 
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 3679
    p90fool said:
    I changed my drop barred road bike to MTB bars, levers and changers a couple of years ago. It wasn't that big a deal really, and means I jump on it far more often than I used to. 

    Work out how many gears you have and start checking compatibility, you don't have to go crazy, price wise these days. I think I spent about 80 quid, which was better than having an expensive bike sat idle. 
    That reminds me of another potential pitfall; both the gears and brakes may have a different “pull” (the amount the cable needs to move to change gear or make the brakes bite) between road and MTB components. 
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  • John_PJohn_P Frets: 2749
    Yeah the gears and brakes will be a nightmare as the gear changer is built into the brakes.  I might have a chat with the bike shop and see what they say.  
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  • JohnnysevenJohnnyseven Frets: 907
    edited August 2020
    John_P said:
    Yeah the gears and brakes will be a nightmare as the gear changer is built into the brakes.  I might have a chat with the bike shop and see what they say.  
    It shouldn't be a nightmare just to fit new seperate gear and brake levers, the complications (and cost) arises if flat bar gear and brake levers aren't compatible with your brake calipers and front/rear mech. If not you're going to have to replace the whole groupset, it would probably be more cost effective to buy a new bike.
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  • Flipping heck it’s all dead complicated than when I had cow horns put on my Raleigh 
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  • Revolting1Revolting1 Frets: 295
    Rather than changing the bars will fitting them upside down get you anywhere close to you want to be?
    When logic and proportion
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  • strtdvstrtdv Frets: 2427
    I presume you mean fitting the stem upside down? I don't see how you could fit drop bars upside down
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  • the_jaffathe_jaffa Frets: 1795
    Another option would be to buy a pair of the wider but less dropped bars and fit a pair of crosstop brake levers so you have more space on the tops and can brake from that position. 

    Something like an On-One Midge Bar or a Salsa Bell Lap. 
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 3679
    strtdv said:
    I presume you mean fitting the stem upside down? I don't see how you could fit drop bars upside down
    How is easy :) it’s the why I don’t understand.

    Just remove everything, spin the bars through 180 degrees along the axis of the bike like a propeller. Then refit brakes etc..

    Problem is you get a really bad angle to use the brakes and gears. 
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  • Revolting1Revolting1 Frets: 295
    drofluf said:
    strtdv said:
    I presume you mean fitting the stem upside down? I don't see how you could fit drop bars upside down
    How is easy :) it’s the why I don’t understand.

    Just remove everything, spin the bars through 180 degrees along the axis of the bike like a propeller. Then refit brakes etc..

    Problem is you get a really bad angle to use the brakes and gears. 

    It gives you a more upright riding position, useful in a city, if you can move the brakes along the bars you can get them extra travel in a single position, but not so great for the gears.
       Used by some early disptach bikers because they're narrow.
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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31519
    John_P said:
    Yeah the gears and brakes will be a nightmare as the gear changer is built into the brakes.  I might have a chat with the bike shop and see what they say.  
    It really isn't a nightmare, you just buy the right parts and fit them, it takes about an hour. 

    You need gear levers which are indexed for the correct number of gears, and different style brake levers. 

    It can seem intimidating, but I spent about an hour checking compatibility and ordering, and an hour fitting them. In fact, due to my tendon issues using MTB levers with my road bike brakes has made them vastly more powerful. 
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11446
    edited August 2020
    Have a look at your stem.  You should be able to get the bars in a higher position by doing something with the stem.

    It might be as simple as turning it over.  They normally have an angle on them, and are normally installed with angle down.  If you take it off and turn it over so it's angled upwards then you will raise the bars, and bring them fractionally closer to you.

    You could also buy a new stem.  It is possible to get them in different lengths, and different angles, so you can change the geometry that way.

    You can get adjustable ones as well:


    Some of the adjustable ones are designed for mountain bikes so you would need to check it fits.


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  • TTBZTTBZ Frets: 2894
    edited August 2020
    I'd probably get a bike with more suitable geometry tbh. Yours will probably have been designed with drops in mind so flat bars might feel weird in the same geometry. If you get a shorter stem your steering will be twitchier, you can counter that with wider bars but then you'll be a bit less upright and probably no better off.

    Or just don't use the drops and keep your hands on the flat bit or the hoods. I rarely use the drops on my road bike, the hoods are the comfiest place for me and less twitchy feeling than the flat bit of the bar.

    You could also try some different less aggressive bars like Salsa Bell Laps, or those horrid Planet X Moustache handlebars which seem popular amongst the middle aged hipster fixie and fat bike crowd.
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