Music room renovation

WiresDreamDisasters

Well I'm in. Haven't got panels on the walls yet. Haven't got a door yet. Surrounded by tools and rubbish, lmao. But I'm in.

WiresDreamDisasters

BTW, the floor has worked out amazingly well. Really prevents sound from going downstairs. Very happy.

ToneControl

Stuckfast said:

hotpickups said:

I may have to do this in my new house when I find it. I feel I might have to do the walls though too as I’ll have neighbours and probably paper thin walls. I wonder what one can do about that ?

Probably a mistake to buy a house that has poor sound isolation with the idea that you might be able to 'soundproof' it later -- it doesn't really work like that. Stopping sound transmission through walls and so on is really hard.

Or buy an isolation booth, again not cheap

ToneControl

I'm a bit late to this thread

I added secondary glazing to my windows, with a large air gap, worth thinking about in the long term

Also: I had a lot of trouble in the last house: the neighbour over the road complained when I was using a Carr 9W amp at a reduced wattage setting at 8pm. Eventually I realised that my upstairs studio window used to have wooden panelling beneath the glazing, which had been hidden by roof tiles when the front was extended 2 metres. The sound was finding an easier path out than through the bricks and double glazing.
Looking at your photos, I'm thinking you may have wood panelling on the outside under those windows, it so - be aware of that

 I assume you'll be putting something like Auralex foam pads under speakers and drums

WiresDreamDisasters

Fucking bastard fucking shit wank. My plan to mount my panels has failed thus far. I was trying for a 100mm air-gap. Did it in a really dumb way. Used too much wood, couldn't get the long ass 120mm screws into the rawl plugs, ripped away a chunk of plaster. Have just filled it with some easifill.

Then I realise ... DUHHH.... attach 50mm wood to the wall... then attach some small chunks of 50mm to that to get my 100mm..... less wood needed, shorter screws, and less risk of damaging the wall.

Bit of a minor inconvenience, but should be able to resolve soon.

ToneControl said:

I'm a bit late to this thread

I added secondary glazing to my windows, with a large air gap, worth thinking about in the long term

Also: I had a lot of trouble in the last house: the neighbour over the road complained when I was using a Carr 9W amp at a reduced wattage setting at 8pm. Eventually I realised that my upstairs studio window used to have wooden panelling beneath the glazing, which had been hidden by roof tiles when the front was extended 2 metres. The sound was finding an easier path out than through the bricks and double glazing.
Looking at your photos, I'm thinking you may have wood panelling on the outside under those windows, it so - be aware of that

 I assume you'll be putting something like Auralex foam pads under speakers and drums

I think it's all brick, because I've done plenty of drilling under the windows and never hit wood. Interesting thought though, not sure how I could confirm.

Yes I've got some fake Auralex pads for my speakers, and I gonna build a mini riser for the e-kit when it gets here.

ToneControl

WiresDreamDisasters said:

Fucking bastard fucking shit wank. My plan to mount my panels has failed thus far. I was trying for a 100mm air-gap. Did it in a really dumb way. Used too much wood, couldn't get the long ass 120mm screws into the rawl plugs, ripped away a chunk of plaster. Have just filled it with some easifill.

Then I realise ... DUHHH.... attach 50mm wood to the wall... then attach some small chunks of 50mm to that to get my 100mm..... less wood needed, shorter screws, and less risk of damaging the wall.

Bit of a minor inconvenience, but should be able to resolve soon.

ToneControl said:

I'm a bit late to this thread

I added secondary glazing to my windows, with a large air gap, worth thinking about in the long term

Also: I had a lot of trouble in the last house: the neighbour over the road complained when I was using a Carr 9W amp at a reduced wattage setting at 8pm. Eventually I realised that my upstairs studio window used to have wooden panelling beneath the glazing, which had been hidden by roof tiles when the front was extended 2 metres. The sound was finding an easier path out than through the bricks and double glazing.
Looking at your photos, I'm thinking you may have wood panelling on the outside under those windows, it so - be aware of that

 I assume you'll be putting something like Auralex foam pads under speakers and drums

I think it's all brick, because I've done plenty of drilling under the windows and never hit wood. Interesting thought though, not sure how I could confirm.

Yes I've got some fake Auralex pads for my speakers, and I gonna build a mini riser for the e-kit when it gets here.

it looks like the wall is recessed under the windows, not sure what it's like on the outside. Is it single skin brick there? Or some different cladding

LastMantra

Gon yer sel big yin.

WiresDreamDisasters

Getting there!

PolarityMan

Grey and red scheme is looking sweet.

WiresDreamDisasters

ToneControl said:

WiresDreamDisasters said:

Fucking bastard fucking shit wank. My plan to mount my panels has failed thus far. I was trying for a 100mm air-gap. Did it in a really dumb way. Used too much wood, couldn't get the long ass 120mm screws into the rawl plugs, ripped away a chunk of plaster. Have just filled it with some easifill.

Then I realise ... DUHHH.... attach 50mm wood to the wall... then attach some small chunks of 50mm to that to get my 100mm..... less wood needed, shorter screws, and less risk of damaging the wall.

Bit of a minor inconvenience, but should be able to resolve soon.

ToneControl said:

I'm a bit late to this thread

I added secondary glazing to my windows, with a large air gap, worth thinking about in the long term

Also: I had a lot of trouble in the last house: the neighbour over the road complained when I was using a Carr 9W amp at a reduced wattage setting at 8pm. Eventually I realised that my upstairs studio window used to have wooden panelling beneath the glazing, which had been hidden by roof tiles when the front was extended 2 metres. The sound was finding an easier path out than through the bricks and double glazing.
Looking at your photos, I'm thinking you may have wood panelling on the outside under those windows, it so - be aware of that

 I assume you'll be putting something like Auralex foam pads under speakers and drums

I think it's all brick, because I've done plenty of drilling under the windows and never hit wood. Interesting thought though, not sure how I could confirm.

Yes I've got some fake Auralex pads for my speakers, and I gonna build a mini riser for the e-kit when it gets here.

it looks like the wall is recessed under the windows, not sure what it's like on the outside. Is it single skin brick there? Or some different cladding

I'm pretty sure it's all brick based on the drilling I did for the skirting board. If single skin means a single brick, then I don't think it's single skin. The wall looks way thicker than that.

WiresDreamDisasters

PolarityMan said:

Grey and red scheme is looking sweet.

Yeah, I'm loving it! Proper moody!

duotone

WiresDreamDisasters said:

Getting there!

I didn’t know you were an interior designer!

Seriously it’s looking great.

Cirrus

Room looks great, I still think you should consider having a door though 

WiresDreamDisasters

Cirrus said:

Room looks great, I still think you should consider having a door though 

Come round and build me one. If it's done properly, I'll fill you with beer and sweet lovin'

Barnezy

poopot said:

WiresDreamDisasters said:

Well.. skirting is a bastard.

Don’t mitre the internal corners... they won’t fit and you’ll be there ages trying to make them look good...

ive only got one scrap piece of skirt left so you’ll have to pretend that the bit of paper is another piece of skirt!...

cut one piece to length and leave the end square... place an off cut against the second board like below:

Draw the profile of the end of the offcut onto the second skirt:

So you end up with this:

Cut out that shape from the end of the second skirt with a jigsaw...





It will then fit snug as a bug and won’t matter if your wall are pissed (which they will be)

Use “sticks like shit” and nails to pin the skirts to the wall... fill any gaps with caulk...

you will have to mitre the corners around the chimney stack but that will be a doddle compared to trying to mitre internal corners...

Mitre the skirting and then use a comping saw to cut along the skirting profile. 

I used to be a carpenter. This guy does it right. 

WiresDreamDisasters

Skirting is done

The bit I thought would be the hardest - the circular bay window - was actually the easiest!! Kerf cuts for the motherflippin' win!!

Whistler

Will you be putting up a cloud, a first reflection point broadband trap just below the ceiling?

Keefy

Barnezy said:

poopot said:

WiresDreamDisasters said:

Well.. skirting is a bastard.

Don’t mitre the internal corners... they won’t fit and you’ll be there ages trying to make them look good...

ive only got one scrap piece of skirt left so you’ll have to pretend that the bit of paper is another piece of skirt!...

cut one piece to length and leave the end square... place an off cut against the second board like below:

Draw the profile of the end of the offcut onto the second skirt:

So you end up with this:

Cut out that shape from the end of the second skirt with a jigsaw...





It will then fit snug as a bug and won’t matter if your wall are pissed (which they will be)

Use “sticks like shit” and nails to pin the skirts to the wall... fill any gaps with caulk...

you will have to mitre the corners around the chimney stack but that will be a doddle compared to trying to mitre internal corners...

Mitre the skirting and then use a comping saw to cut along the skirting profile. 

I used to be a carpenter. This guy does it right. 

The second method looks like a lot of work - I'll use @poopot 's method next time I'm doing a skirting board in my own house.

WiresDreamDisasters

Whistler said:

Will you be putting up a cloud, a first reflection point broadband trap just below the ceiling?

Yeah, wanna build a few more panels for the ceiling. 

Barnezy

Keefy said:

Barnezy said:

poopot said:

WiresDreamDisasters said:

Well.. skirting is a bastard.

Don’t mitre the internal corners... they won’t fit and you’ll be there ages trying to make them look good...

ive only got one scrap piece of skirt left so you’ll have to pretend that the bit of paper is another piece of skirt!...

cut one piece to length and leave the end square... place an off cut against the second board like below:

Draw the profile of the end of the offcut onto the second skirt:

So you end up with this:

Cut out that shape from the end of the second skirt with a jigsaw...





It will then fit snug as a bug and won’t matter if your wall are pissed (which they will be)

Use “sticks like shit” and nails to pin the skirts to the wall... fill any gaps with caulk...

you will have to mitre the corners around the chimney stack but that will be a doddle compared to trying to mitre internal corners...

Mitre the skirting and then use a comping saw to cut along the skirting profile. 

I used to be a carpenter. This guy does it right. 

The second method looks like a lot of work - I'll use @poopot 's method next time I'm doing a skirting board in my own house.

You do that, we all have different standards. I was just explaining how the professionals do it. In the 10 years I was a carpenter I never saw anyone draw the profile on a piece of paper, and if I did I would ask where they did their apprenticeship. 

Cutting a piece of skirting at 45 degrees then following the profile with a coping saw is pretty straight forward and is how you get the best result. On very intricate skirting or coving the DIY paper method would not work.