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PRS Custom - 22 vs 24?

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  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    crunchman said:
    thegummy said:

    As you say, though, there is such a better variety on the Custom 24 and a lot of special editions only on that model. I find that a real shame and also puzzling when PRS himself prefers 22 but maybe their C24 is their biggest selling guitar.

    That might be a bit of a chicken and egg thing though. I just looked on the Andertons Website, and I counted 23 Custom 24s (including the 35th anniversary model) vs only 4 Custom 22s.

    Someone looking at that is more likely to buy the 24, because there are no Custom 22s in the spec/colour they like.

    If there were more 22s available, I suspect they would sell more.

    Having said that, I'd go for a 594, or a DGT if I wanted a trem, ahead of a Custom.
    Great point.
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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4718
    The reason I bought my Cu24 is because I needed the versatility to have one guitar that could give me good humbucker tones and good single coil tones akin to LP and Strat like tones. I found that the 22s could do the former ok, but I was less convinced by the single coil tones. I also do like having the extra 2 frets as it gives me just that little bit more flexibility.  I did prefer the Cu24 tone.   

    But I've played 22s and I like these too...be nice to have one of each but can't justify it as I've got more guitars than I need.  I have another 24 fret guitar, a 1997 Patrick Eggle Berlin Pro that's quite different. It gives 9 pup positions but I do want to get a tone control added to it as I miss not having that.  
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71960
    I like 22-fret PRSs more than almost any other guitar for physical fit, but I wouldn't have a 24 at all - I find the too-far-to-the-left neck position awkward. If anything I would say the 24 feels more like an SG or a 335 in that sense - the front strap button is parallel with the 15th fret, whereas the 22's is parallel with the 14th. That doesn't sound like a lot, but makes a big difference to me.

    The only real advantage of the 24s for me is that the both-inner-coils sound is closer to a Strat in-between because the pickups are physically closer together - which makes the rotary switch useful. On the 22s it isn't so much, because the pickups are further apart and the inner vs. outer coils sounds are less distinct from each other. (I prefer the toggle anyway.)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12646
    I really wanted to like the 24... I didn't. At all. And it all comes down to the neck pickup sounds for me - it just sounded flat, lifeless and lacking in any real character. Perhaps thats why non-PRS people don't like them...

    I have a CE22 (and a 305, but thats a very different animal) and that thing is just fantastic. 
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • jeztone2jeztone2 Frets: 2160
    Stevepage said:
    You do get a slightly more rounded tone from the neck pickup on a 22 fret model. For me, I preferred the 22 fret because I rarely use the 23rd and 24th frets and you get get the Wide Fat profile (or what ever equivalent is nowadays) which I loved.
    This. I have large hands and the CU24 neck always gave me playing fatigue. 
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  • cm01cm01 Frets: 448
     The real sleeper model (and possibly best of the 80s-early 00s models) is the Standard 24, it's over-looked because it doesn't have the maple top, but they sound incredible.
    I'd echo this... my 80's Standard is just an all round awesome guitar
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71960
    I should never have sold my Standard 22...

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14034
    tFB Trader
    ICBM said:
    I should never have sold my Standard 22...
    The best Stds I played were the thin nitro satin finished models that had a slight 'coloured' stain to them - ie Vintage Cherry 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71960
    The best Stds I played were the thin nitro satin finished models that had a slight 'coloured' stain to them - ie Vintage Cherry 
    I don’t like nitro ;). Mine was a normal gloss-finished one (2002) - essentially identical to my Custom 22 but without the maple cap. I always preferred it. I’d buy it back if I ever find it...

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • LogieLogie Frets: 440
    I've had a couple of each and although I'd never had a 24 fret guitar before and don't normally venture that far up the neck, I much preferred the W/T neck profile of the 24. I also preferred the sound of the 24 neck pickup but that's probably more to do with the difference between a Dragon 2 and a VB rather than placement. One of my 22's actually had a W/T neck as an option but it just didn't feel the same to me as the 24's.
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  • ICBM said:
    I should never have sold my Standard 22...
    The best Stds I played were the thin nitro satin finished models that had a slight 'coloured' stain to them - ie Vintage Cherry 
    Yep, I bloody loved those! The satin finish felt great, but they don’t stand up to wear and tear very well so they frequently go quite cheap because people expect PRS guitars to be mint, the fools! :joy: 

    Another great but hard to find model is the DGT Standard, they were a fantastic limited run indeed. The new S2 594 Thinline looks to be pretty special as well.
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11413
    ICBM said:
    I should never have sold my Standard 22...
    The best Stds I played were the thin nitro satin finished models that had a slight 'coloured' stain to them - ie Vintage Cherry 
    Yep, I bloody loved those! The satin finish felt great, but they don’t stand up to wear and tear very well so they frequently go quite cheap because people expect PRS guitars to be mint, the fools! :joy: 

    Another great but hard to find model is the DGT Standard, they were a fantastic limited run indeed. The new S2 594 Thinline looks to be pretty special as well.

    I would like to try a DGT Standard.

    I'm also wondering about the maple topped S2 594.  The maple cap looks a lot thinner than on the "Core" model.  I'd be interested to see what it sounds like.
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  • Fishboy7Fishboy7 Frets: 2178

    I briefly owned a custom 24 – I remember the body was quite a bit thinner than the McCarty 594 I had around the same time.  I also remember the pickups were pretty hot and it was a lot more ‘modern’ sounding than the 594.

     

    I miss the 594 but not the Custom 24.

     

    Horses fuck horses I suppose.      

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  • I loaded my '87 Cu24 with a set of 85/15 pickups after auditioning 20 or so PRS models last autumn. They're a really good 'modern' set for anything that doesn't rely on chasing PAF tones. That's not to say they can't do classic, but they excel at gainier sounds. The other standout set I tried were the 58/15 low-wind set in a DC594 as well, that guitar had everything going for it and truly rang like a bell - it's probably the closest I've ever found to a 'holy grail' LP tone, including that some actual mid-50's les pauls!
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  • Well that's interesting... Got the chance to try both (in the SE range) today, and I think I might have preferred the less boomy nature of the 24's neck pickup overall. It's definitely a bit more modern in that sense, and I guess some would say sterile, but it's got a charm to it and indeed reminded me a tad of an SG neck tone Vs an LP.

    Big caveat in that both were tried in a store through an HT5, so I might reach a different conclusion with a more personal setup, tweak to pickup height etc.

    As for the neck, it did throw me off for a minute but coming from an SG it's ultimately pretty similar. If anything I struggled to readjust to the 22 afterwards!

    Incidentally, the quality on the new SEs from Indonesia is on point. I was able to do a direct compare of the same model with same specs, but one MIK and one slightly newer MII, and the latter had very noticeably nicer rosewood on the fretboard, and overall a more convincing and less thick finish. The MIK one was very much in the realm of posh Epiphone, the Indonesian had a little something extra. Probably luck of the draw to some extent but definitely not worth worrying about any lost mojo following the move away from World Musical Instruments.
    Click here to see me butchering some classic solos!
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  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    Well that's interesting... Got the chance to try both (in the SE range) today, and I think I might have preferred the less boomy nature of the 24's neck pickup overall. It's definitely a bit more modern in that sense, and I guess some would say sterile, but it's got a charm to it and indeed reminded me a tad of an SG neck tone Vs an LP.

    Big caveat in that both were tried in a store through an HT5, so I might reach a different conclusion with a more personal setup, tweak to pickup height etc.

    As for the neck, it did throw me off for a minute but coming from an SG it's ultimately pretty similar. If anything I struggled to readjust to the 22 afterwards!

    Incidentally, the quality on the new SEs from Indonesia is on point. I was able to do a direct compare of the same model with same specs, but one MIK and one slightly newer MII, and the latter had very noticeably nicer rosewood on the fretboard, and overall a more convincing and less thick finish. The MIK one was very much in the realm of posh Epiphone, the Indonesian had a little something extra. Probably luck of the draw to some extent but definitely not worth worrying about any lost mojo following the move away from World Musical Instruments.
    If "boominess", i.e. more bass, is something you dislike then I'd say definitely get the 24 because the only advantage of the 22 IMO (and the reason it's the only one I'd get) is that I desire that sound.

    As long as you don't mind the position of the frets (I actually liked that aspect, the first 5 frets were further away but I have long arms so that was fine and I liked having the 10th-16th fret right there in the middle rather than crowded up near the body.

    Add to that all the extra finish options available for that model (and the extra 2 frets if you ever want to play them) and I think you'd like the 24.

    I wouldn't worry about the factory move - as great a reputation WMI has (I've personally had very good experiences with them), I'm confident PRS wouldn't choose an inferior factory, I think they'd be very picky.
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  • PonchoGregPonchoGreg Frets: 764
    edited October 2020
    Re: the core models, what's the consensus on 2nd-hand pricing? Seems to a bit all over the place, probably to do with 10tops, age, etc plus probably people trying it on a bit with punchy prices...

    Would £1300-1600 depending on condition be a realistic target, or is that too much at the lower end and I should budget higher?
    Click here to see me butchering some classic solos!
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  • RaymondLinRaymondLin Frets: 11812
    Re: the core models, what's the consensus on 2nd-hand pricing? Seems to a bit all over the place, probably to do with 10tops, age, etc plus probably people trying it on a bit with punchy prices...

    Would £1300-1600 depending on condition be a realistic target, or is that too much at the lower end and I should budget higher?
    It depends on a lot of things, PRS market generally favour wacky colours, conditions matters more than Gibson and Fender and case candy, also unless it's pre-Maryland CU24, newer ones command more than older ones.  Rotatary switch goes for less than 5 blade.  Plain top goes for slightly less than 10-top (but that's just a perspective and opinion, some normal top looks like 10-tops and my 10-top looks like some Artist packs)

    £1500 is a good place for a used one, £2000 would be on the high side.

    But this was like 6 months ago, the market has moved a bit since.
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  • Makes sense - pretty much ties in with recent Ebay sales too. Thanks man
    Click here to see me butchering some classic solos!
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  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14034
    tFB Trader
    Re: the core models, what's the consensus on 2nd-hand pricing? Seems to a bit all over the place, probably to do with 10tops, age, etc plus probably people trying it on a bit with punchy prices...

    Would £1300-1600 depending on condition be a realistic target, or is that too much at the lower end and I should budget higher?
    I'm finding the prices of good Customs are rising - Talking about the core series here - Up to 12 months ago then up to £1500/1600 was common - I'm struggling to even buy them now around such prices, with a view to selling them for more - Increase is in part that a new Custom (core series) is now well over 3K - Plus  many are seeing it wrong that a good used Custom (core series) is selling for a price that is below that of a new S2 Custom 

    Price will depend on condition, case, tags and that figured maple top
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