Archtop build number 2.

WezV

I was considering an ebony and walnut theme which could be matched in the binding.  I'm still undecided how fancy I want to go

Andyjr1515

Gosh.  Just caught up with this.  That back is sublime...

WezV

I got the internal blocks done.   


Sides and binding strips are now bent.   Lots of notes on which side to bend each curve on the wood


Bending walnut is a really pleasant job.   The mahogany i used on the last one was old and brittle.  It took me the best part of a day to do, and I snapped all my test pieces finding out how not to go too far.   This walnut has taken an hour to get to this stage, and that still felt like I was going carefully.

Obviously if I do bind it in walnut I will need to bend the cutaway into the treble side, but I will need a much smaller iron for that.   It will probably be  a blowtorch and copper pipe job.

PeteC

Nice job on the handplaning and bending - looking good. 

WezV

Anyway, this is getting a 3 piece birdseye maple neck, the twin to my DC build.    I found a nice speckled ebony board to use, and also cut some matching headplates.   

I'm contemplating doing a matching headstock face, back strap, and heel cap.... probably with a black veneer accent.   Fancy pants stuff

davros

Looking fantastic. How easy is bending sides and how much do the tools needed cost? I was thinking about a 335-like build but maybe it's simpler (and cheaper) to just hog out a big chunk of mahogany?

WezV

I'm using an ibex bending iron, which costs about £250-300.

The cheapest option is to make one out of a large diameter metal pipe and a blowtorch.   I did this first and in fairness it wasn't much harder to use than the ibex, but the ibex has a better shape to it.

I really want a big bending jig with heated blankets.... but that would at least double the investment needed.


Bending some woods is easier than others.   Some like to be wetter, some need to be thinner.... I'm still learning.    The walnut bent well at 2mm with just a spritz of water.   The mahogany needed to be thinner and wetter, and took a lot longer, it can crumple on the bends.   Maple is pretty easy, but can scorch easily


The ears on a 335 will be the hardest bit, but should bend nicely in maple or sycamore.


Another option, which would be suitable for a 335, is to use thin veneers that bend easily, and laminate them in a mold

WezV

A few other jobs done today.

I trimmed the sides, they are now being glued to the neck and tail block.

The fretboard blank was a bass one.   The offcut gave me enough extra length to make a tailpiece, but at only 6.5mm I decided to laminate 4mm of walnut on top.   I should be able to make something nice out of that.  I have some brass sheet that will be used to make the bulk of the tailpiece and allow the strings to be grounded,  but you will only see the wooden bit.

I'm going to carry on with this black and walnut theme and have ordered a lot of 0.6mm black veneer for some of the next steps.

  The fretboard will be bound in walnut with a black stripe underneath.   Headstock won't be bound, but will be capped with walnut over black veneer.   I may do the same on the back of the headstock with a back strap and carved volute.

Binding on the body will be 0.6mm black veneer purfling, then 2mm walnut binding.   I may do a line under the binding too.


So lots of walnut, all from the same tree. Lots of fine black lines.   Fancier than the idea I started out with, but hopefully not tacky.    

WezV

Time for a bit of drawing.


I started designing the tailpiece.   I think it needs a symmetrical design that sits somewhere between the original PAB influence for this build and a Benedetto.  I think it needs to be a bit shorter than a normal trapeze too.

I'm also still considering other PAB elements I can include, or whether I should move away from the idea totally.   But to give it a fair chance I drew out a PAB inspired guard.

Both are laid on the guitar in this post, along with the PAB pickup.   It could work... I may make a couple of guard designs once I'm further along

Second pic on the post is a rough idea on how to construct the tailpiece.   Essentially it will be a brass T shape, bent over the side, then hidden inside some wood pieces.  The brass will provide the main structure, wood will be epoxied to it for aesthetics and extra support.   Strings will be fully grounded

Jazzthat

Sounds like well planned and  interesting build .Following 

WezV

Definitely not well planned

Jazzthat

WezV said:

Definitely not well planned

It doesn't look chaotic either

WezV

I tend not to have a firm plan for non-commission builds... just let it take its own path and try some things out along the way

PhilKing

Hi Wez, this is the one I had built for the Languedoc copy to improve the looks


It just uses the brass as the anchor point

WezV

This is where I am at with it so far.... thinking I may be able to get continuous grain  on both facets

WezV

PhilKing said:

Hi Wez, this is the one I had built for the Languedoc copy to improve the looks


It just uses the brass as the anchor point

Is it grounded via the bridge instead?   If not you could add a conductive strup underneath and ground the hinge

PhilKing

Yes, it is grounded at the bridge (pita to get at to check though!).

WezV

Time to start carving the inside of the top and back plates.

I start by drilling  some guide holes to a consistent depth.  The drill is set up like this


And lots of holes are drilled


8 don't have enough throat depth on the drill to do those middle bits, so they get routed out to the same depth as the surrounding holes.

Rims are also nearly there.  Glued to the blocks and kerfing installed.   Now I need to do some side supports 

SteveRobinson

Beautiful work there

danishbacon

very interesting. The mid 30s Epiphone Broadway was available in spruce and walnut, not sure when they moved from 16 to 17” but the walnut ones are sought after.