Archtop build number 2.

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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Really appreciate you sharing these insights on the arch top builds @WezV ;
    Looking great as ever. 

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    very interesting. The mid 30s Epiphone Broadway was available in spruce and walnut, not sure when they moved from 16 to 17” but the walnut ones are sought after. 
    i wasn't aware of that.. looking at them its identical wood choices to this one, with a figured maple neck and ebony board
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6389
    Looking as tasty as ever !  loving it ! More ! More !!!!!!!
    Imagine something sharp and witty here ......

    Feedback
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    Another thing to note on this one is I have wedged the back of the neck block. It's longer on top where it will hold the pickup. doesn't need to be as long on the back so i cut a big chunk away i could probably get away with a much smaller neck block, but i like this method of construction. The only bit i am not sure about yet is that it will leave me with an obvious mahogany section showing in the cutaway. ideally I will want to show the construction, but if it stands out to much it may get disguised in finish
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    Just taken delivery of some black tulipwood veneer.

    These are 270x18x0.06cm


    A lot more than I need right now, but it will all get used along the way.   I can now proceed with veneering the headstock faces and heel, and I have plenty for purfling lines later on
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  • kaypeejaykaypeejay Frets: 777
    Cool cat!
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    Yeah, he likes to be involved.
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7028
    tFB Trader
    Do you get cat hairs in your finish? It's the bane of my life.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    Normally he doesn't loose much hair, the coat on maine coons is a bit different to normal cats.    Losing a lot now its spring though.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    Head stock face is veneered with black tulipwood and walnut.  

    The back will have the same, just need to bend the walnut plate to fit the curve shown above.  It will then get a carved volute showing the layers.

    I also started on the tailpiece and got the main bits made



    I need to trim the main wooden bit back a bit for a better match at the join, but its not looking too bad.   Gonna fit a brass or bone saddle in front of the strings slots as I don't think the walnut will resist string wear.

    I may also look into weight relieving the brass before epoxying the whole thing together.   Currently it's 164g. A few holes drilled through the middle section might help reduce it without compromising strength.

     One its a solid unit I can carve some bevels either side and make the whole thing a lot more graceful.

    So far so good. 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    New headstock design for this, for straighter string pull than the Gibson style I have been using recently.


    It's still a bit thick, but I'm playing with ideas.

    Heel had the same walnut/ black veneer scheme.   Neck has been trimmed to depth and width.  Fretboard is not glued yet, I need to cut my heel first.  Going for a shorter tenon on this 







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  • Jez6345789Jez6345789 Frets: 1783
    As always lovely build to watch come together
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  • JazzthatJazzthat Frets: 163
    Good progress and I like the headstock shape .
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    Rims are done, not have all kerfing and side supports in place, and a few aesthetic touches have begun


    next jobs there will be to level off the top and back so once the plates are done i can glue up the box and tidy everything up


    i also started bending the binding for the cutaway... probably should have got these thinner first.  i have got it to match the template, but it springs back a bit for the pic so will go in the mold to cool down and hopefully hold its shape better.   if it doesn't work, i have plenty more walnut to make some more.   

    I will be gluing the binding with hot hide glue so i can reshape as I go on the iron if needed, and remove easily if it does mess up

    I really should have glued black purling on the body first, but will cut some to match the curves instead now



    Its common with acoustic purfling to do mitered corners. Its fancy, I like it,  but I am purposely doing things much simpler. 

    its the difference between these - my way on top, traditional mitered purfling on bottom




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  • PeteCPeteC Frets: 409
    Looking great.  Really like
    the look of the wedge at the back 
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 3127
    Yes - nice work :)
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  • joeWjoeW Frets: 462
    Really great to watch an arch top build through the stages.  Looking really tasty
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    rough cut the f-holes.   I draw them on first, drill some holes at the circles and points, and cut it by hand with a coping saw and sharp knife.   Still a bit of evening out and tidying up to do, but a good start


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  • davrosdavros Frets: 1328
    They are some really elegant f-holes!
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16671
    davros said:
    They are some really elegant f-holes!
    I do like to keep them quite slim and elegant, but there are a few things to consider that may still see them open up a bit more.

    the main considerations, according to Benedetto, are
    1 - space between f-holes.  too close will reduce the main are of the top
    2 - narrow f-holes can choke the acoustic sound and reduce its responsiveness
    3 - Wide f-holes can reduce protection
    4 - the mid points should line up with the bridge

    I think I have the positioning pretty good on this one. There is a risk they are too narrow at the moment, but I would rather that, and be able to tweak as I go than have them too wide already.


    I am not going to bind them. i much prefer un bound f-holes on this kind of thing.   I'm also not going to do them big enough to pass pots and wiring through... so will need an access port on the back

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