It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
Looking great as ever.
Instagram
Feedback
Instagram
These are 270x18x0.06cm
A lot more than I need right now, but it will all get used along the way. I can now proceed with veneering the headstock faces and heel, and I have plenty for purfling lines later on
Instagram
Instagram
Instagram
The back will have the same, just need to bend the walnut plate to fit the curve shown above. It will then get a carved volute showing the layers.
I also started on the tailpiece and got the main bits made
I need to trim the main wooden bit back a bit for a better match at the join, but its not looking too bad. Gonna fit a brass or bone saddle in front of the strings slots as I don't think the walnut will resist string wear.
I may also look into weight relieving the brass before epoxying the whole thing together. Currently it's 164g. A few holes drilled through the middle section might help reduce it without compromising strength.
One its a solid unit I can carve some bevels either side and make the whole thing a lot more graceful.
So far so good.
Instagram
It's still a bit thick, but I'm playing with ideas.
Heel had the same walnut/ black veneer scheme. Neck has been trimmed to depth and width. Fretboard is not glued yet, I need to cut my heel first. Going for a shorter tenon on this
Instagram
next jobs there will be to level off the top and back so once the plates are done i can glue up the box and tidy everything up
i also started bending the binding for the cutaway... probably should have got these thinner first. i have got it to match the template, but it springs back a bit for the pic so will go in the mold to cool down and hopefully hold its shape better. if it doesn't work, i have plenty more walnut to make some more.
I will be gluing the binding with hot hide glue so i can reshape as I go on the iron if needed, and remove easily if it does mess up
I really should have glued black purling on the body first, but will cut some to match the curves instead now
Its common with acoustic purfling to do mitered corners. Its fancy, I like it, but I am purposely doing things much simpler.
its the difference between these - my way on top, traditional mitered purfling on bottom
Instagram
the look of the wedge at the back
Instagram
the main considerations, according to Benedetto, are :
1 - space between f-holes. too close will reduce the main are of the top
2 - narrow f-holes can choke the acoustic sound and reduce its responsiveness
3 - Wide f-holes can reduce protection
4 - the mid points should line up with the bridge
I think I have the positioning pretty good on this one. There is a risk they are too narrow at the moment, but I would rather that, and be able to tweak as I go than have them too wide already.
I am not going to bind them. i much prefer un bound f-holes on this kind of thing. I'm also not going to do them big enough to pass pots and wiring through... so will need an access port on the back
Instagram