Martin neck bow

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  • crunchman said:
    "The best first step with an issue like this is to do research and ask for advice, which is what you have done. Happily nowadays you can watch youtube videos on stuff to reduce risk of misunderstandings and errors."

    As I have said before, this is fine if you have a cheap second hand guitar and want to make it more playable, but the OP is talking about a Martin 0018 less than three months old, bought new from a shop!

    New guitars can take a while to settle in.  There may also have been a change in atmospheric conditions.  Maybe the shop was storing the guitar in a cold, dry warehouse, and the OP's house is quite humid.

    Checking the neck relief, and adjusting the truss rod if necessary, is the sensible thing to do.  If he checks the neck relief, and it turns out that the truss rod doesn't need adjusting, then there is definitely a problem, and it needs to go back.

    He also needs to check that there isn't significant bellying of the top.

    However, the likelihood is that a truss rod adjustment will go a long way towards fixing it.

    It's possible the saddle will need a reduction in height as well.  Guitars tend to come from the factory with a reasonably high action and the manufacturers will err on the side of the saddle being a bit high.  Some players like their action high, and it's easy to take material off of a saddle if necessary.  To raise the action you would ideally need a new saddle, which is much more of an issue, so they generally come new with the saddle quite high, with room to reduce it if necessary.

    It's very unlikely for a new Martin to have a structural problem, and almost certain that this can be fixed through a combination of a truss rod adjustment and the saddle height being reduced if necessary.  If the OP is happy to drive for two and half hours and spend twice as much on fuel as a truss rod wrench would cost, then that's his prerogative, but if it was me, I'd give it a tweak myself first.  As others have said repeatedly in this thread, every guitarist should learn how to check relief and adjust a truss rod.  It's not difficult.
    I think it's safe to say that most of us know all of this already, but that's not really the point. Every time I have bought a brand new guitar, the shop has invited me to come back after six months for a free setup. If a problem has developed in the first few months of ownership, it is the responsibility of the shop to put it right whether it is a simple adjustment or a full replacement because the instrument has a serious fault.
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 3677
    edited July 2021

    <snip>
    I think it's safe to say that most of us know all of this already, but that's not really the point. Every time I have bought a brand new guitar, the shop has invited me to come back after six months for a free setup. If a problem has developed in the first few months of ownership, it is the responsibility of the shop to put it right whether it is a simple adjustment or a full replacement because the instrument has a serious fault.
    I think this is the salient point; it’s a new guitar. Adjusting a truss rod is easy and something any guitarist should be comfortable doing. But I accept others may prefer to have a professional do it. Plus, as I said it’s a new instrument. 

    If you give me a pile of parts I’m perfectly comfortable turning them into a bicycle (yet to build a wheel though) but if I have a new bike I take up the shop’s free service. Similarly when my 2015 Martin needed adjustment I got out the Allen key and gave it a tweak - but given I got it at Oxfam I doubt I’d have had much luck if I’d taken it back to the shop lol:  
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  • KilgoreKilgore Frets: 8600
    The OP has chosen not to respond, which suggests he has resolved the issue himself, will return the guitar to the retailer or has decided we are bunch of contrarian idiots whose advice cannot be relied upon either way.  ;)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16644
    edited July 2021
    Guitars are most likely to need adjustments at certain points in their life
    • When they are new and settling in
    • When you make a drastic change to setup/string gauge
    • when there environment (humidity and temperature) changes significantly

    I would fully expect to adjust the truss rod on a 3 month old acoustic.   I would expect to do it less often as the guitar ages and settles in

    you never used to need to worry about seasonal changes in most of the UK, but it does seem that the swings are getting more noticeable.   In other parts of the world its not uncommon to need a summer and winter saddle. Those touring with classical string instruments often carry bridges of different heights for the same reason


    Its perfectly safe to adjust a truss rod as long as you always use the correct tool, and never force.   I always loosen before tightening just to ensure the rod isn't seized.  You can also loosen string tension and make tiny adjustments at a time, but these are belt and braces precautions that most who are familiar with a truss rod wont need to bother with. 

    the most common damage you see  is a worn adjustment nut from someone not following the above advice

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  • meltedbuzzboxmeltedbuzzbox Frets: 10339
    Jesus wept some of the replies on this thread...
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • guitarjack66guitarjack66 Frets: 1830
    It sounds like this guitar might be expensive therefore having an experienced person take a look at it might be the safest idea. I imagine most Martin guitars are north of 1k and I personally wouldnt tinker with anything so expensive.
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  • maltingsaudiomaltingsaudio Frets: 3116
    This is a good read! 
    My tuppence on it is:

    The confidence to assess and adjust a guitar comes from experience, if you spend your whole life doing it then there is very little mystery, if you have only possessed one guitar and have sold your soul to get it then it’s only reasonable to be very cautious, seek advice and get help when you feel the need to have something done. Once having been mentored then crack on and do it yourself or not.  

    Adjusting a truss Rod is nothing to be scared of, however due to the stories and myths that abound it can seem this way. These fears can only be allayed by actually doing it and getting the experience. I would suggest that there are as many on here who spend their time tinkering with their guitars as there are those who daren’t. And if you ask these people who do, I expect they will say they were bricking it first time they took an Allen key to a truss Rod .

    Finally quick word on Martin Guitar lifetime warranty. I actually know someone who had a neck reset done under their warranty after 25/30 years of owning one in the UK. Original receipt proving  sole ownership was provided at the time and Martin weren’t happy but did end up paying!
    www.maltingsaudio.co.uk
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    I'd go back to the store. As it is you have a year's warranty or what's left of it, so that you're covered if it's more serious than thought. But if you do try a diy fix and it goes badly wrong, you won't have a leg to stand on. Just my opinion. 
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  • AlbertCAlbertC Frets: 932
    Gosh, I missed that this thread had carried on collecting posts including a bit of handbags.

    To update it the situation, being under warranty I decided to take it back to the shop (I happened to be headed that way on another matter so it made sense). I left it with them for a couple of hours and came back but I wasn't at all happy that after the adjustment they made that the action was as good as it was before - the neck still didn't look right to me. Something else they actually mentioned was that the fingerboard seemed to had swollen slightly so it was a little bit proud of the neck on both sides.
    They said they would send the guitar back to Martin and have it sorted out - put in a drying room. It's still with Martin at the moment. Martin have apparently reported back the guitar has - I think it was -11% humidity. I have no idea what a normal % would be so I don't know if that's really bad or what.
    I didn't think I had a humid house and I've certainly never had another guitar suffering with a similar problem in 15 years here.

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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6385
    Good luck ! 

    Imagine something sharp and witty here ......

    Feedback
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  • Well done, that was the correct course of action. I'm still amazed at the number of people who vehemently disagreed with me when I suggested it on the day of your first post.
    I hope it works out for you in the end.
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    The Martin factory advises 45-55% humidity. mate. 






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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 3677
    edited August 2021
    Mellish said:
    The Martin factory advises 45-55% humidity. mate. 

    That’s for the air, I think the 11% figure quoted was for the wood.  If I understand correctly wood for guitars should be in the range 6-9%. 
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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Oh right. Well it seems a low figure which made me think it didn't need drying out. I keep my Martin at 50% humidity and 72F.

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  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    @drofluf. Yes, you're right. I misunderstood the OP. 
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  • HottubesHottubes Frets: 394
    If you're going to do it yourself, you only turn it a fraction at a time either way.
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  • boogiemanboogieman Frets: 12346
    Gibson include a truss rod tool and instructions on how to do the adjustment (or at least they certainly did with the last two Gibsons I’ve had). So they obviously expect an owner to be able to do the job themselves. 
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  • This has been such a controversial topic I would love to know if it was ever resolved?
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  • BillDLBillDL Frets: 7159
    edited November 2021
    So would I.  I wasn't here at the inception, but it was bumped up the recent list again from your comment and I've just read through every comment.  I have always approached advice on anything from the angle of assuming that the person asking a question has little or no experience in the subject being asked about and never to assume that he or she is as conversant as I am if I have the prerequisite knowledge or skill to answer the question or offer guidance. It is far easier in the long run to establish the person's level of skill and knowledge first and then tailor an answer based on that person's self-assessment, or else give a full and comprehensive answer at the outset in the full knowledge that the person asking might already know many of the absolute basics being suggested and can simply choose to skip forward until he or she reaches the point of learing something new.
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  • Jeez the hostile responses were totally unnecessary! Just a guy asking for advice, who clearly doesn't have much experience. 
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