Home made cables

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I spent a short while this evening taking some unused cable (like instrument cable, but two core - it used to have an XLR type plug on one end, and a stereo jack on the other) and some jack plugs, and making a couple of cables. They seem to work just fine, but is there any issue with using a two core cable? I just twisted the two centre cores together at each end so it's functioning as a single core, and then used the outer mesh for ground as per usual.

And on a related note, what cable would anyone recommend for making one's own cables? Both patch cables and a regular instrument cable.
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  • mrkbmrkb Frets: 6636
    I’m sure I’ve seen that done in the past but they joined one core to the shield rather than join the two cores together. Not sure is that’s because the shielding has more impedance. Any experts know why?
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  • MusicwolfMusicwolf Frets: 3627
    edited July 2021
    Guitar cables (unbalanced) require only a core + shield.  The reason for not using twin core is essentially cost since the second core is redundant, although not the case if you already have the cable.

    When making an XLR to 'mono' (TS) jack cable it is the norm to bridge the second core (negative) to shield, typically at the jack end, or you can bridge pins 1 & 3 at the XLR.

    I roll my own when it comes to balanced cables (virtually all XLR - XLR) and I always use Neutrik connectors.  I've found that cheap connectors tend to wear and become a lose fit in a relatively short space of time.  For cable I use Sommer Cable (Stage 22) which I get from Thomann (£0.82 per meter).  It's available in a range of colours and I use different colours for different lengths to make identification easier.  I never use black which also makes it easier to identify all my leads at the end of a gig and help spot when someone is making off with one of mine.

    If I'm after patch cables then I'm quite happy to go with cheap moulded off the shelf ones since they aren't going to be plugged and unplugged very often (but then I rarely use seperate pedals as I'm a multi effects guy).
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    mrkb said:
    I’m sure I’ve seen that done in the past but they joined one core to the shield rather than join the two cores together. Not sure is that’s because the shielding has more impedance. Any experts know why?
    It’s just better practice to not have the shield carrying a current, if possible. Some people believe it’s better to have the shield connected at only one end so it definitely can’t, but there is conflicting evidence as to whether it actually reduces noise or not. I always connect it at both ends.

    One advantage of using the second core for the ground is that you can then use it as a speaker cable if you need to. Not best practice, but it will work.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • MattharrierMattharrier Frets: 451
    I desoldered the stereo jack and reattached it, so it's functioning as a mono jack. So the two cores are twisted together and soldered to the tip of the stereo jack, and to the tip of the mono jack at the other end, and the shielding is soldered to the sleeve of the stereo jack and to the mono jack. Is this going to cause an issue compared to undoing everything, and joining the second core to the shielding? There's no additional noise that I can detect.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    I desoldered the stereo jack and reattached it, so it's functioning as a mono jack. So the two cores are twisted together and soldered to the tip of the stereo jack, and to the tip of the mono jack at the other end, and the shielding is soldered to the sleeve of the stereo jack and to the mono jack. Is this going to cause an issue compared to undoing everything, and joining the second core to the shielding? There's no additional noise that I can detect.
    If you're just using it as an instrument cable and you're not getting any noise, it's fine.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • robinbowesrobinbowes Frets: 3021
    This is a very useful reference for general grounding:

    https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_article.php?article=2107

    Regarding your specific case, using both cores of a two-core cable can double the overall capacitance of the cable, which can (depending on the use-case) reduce high frequencies.

    I'd use just one cable for the +ve connection, and tie the other one to the shield, and use that for the -ve connection.

    I make cables as a bit of a side line (see my post here), and I use the following cables:

    For guitar leads, I use Van Damme Pro Grade XKE instrument cable.

    For patch leads, I use Van Damme Pro Grade XKE unbalanced Pro-Patch cable

    HTH.

    R.
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  • MattharrierMattharrier Frets: 451
    Thanks for the info. Regarding the cable above, what is the difference between a guitar lead and a patch lead? They are both carrying the same signal, I assumed they were the same other than patch cables being shorter.
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  • robinbowesrobinbowes Frets: 3021
    Mattharrier said:

     Regarding the cable above, what is the difference between a guitar lead and a patch lead? They are both carrying the same signal, I assumed they were the same other than patch cables being shorter.
    The different cable for patch leads is purely for diameter to fit smaller plugs. Otherwise, no difference.

    R.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    robinbowes said:

    The different cable for patch leads is purely for diameter to fit smaller plugs. Otherwise, no difference.
    And so they can be bent through a smaller radius on a tightly-spaced pedalboard. Guitar leads are often made physically fatter than they need to be precisely so they don't kink as easily, which helps make them more robust.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • MattharrierMattharrier Frets: 451
    Mattharrier said:

     Regarding the cable above, what is the difference between a guitar lead and a patch lead? They are both carrying the same signal, I assumed they were the same other than patch cables being shorter.
    The different cable for patch leads is purely for diameter to fit smaller plugs. Otherwise, no difference.

    R.
    Smaller plugs? Mine are all the same. Or do you mean the bit the cable goes into is smaller, not the bit that goes into the pedal?
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  • MattharrierMattharrier Frets: 451
    ICBM said:
    robinbowes said:

    The different cable for patch leads is purely for diameter to fit smaller plugs. Otherwise, no difference.
    And so they can be bent through a smaller radius on a tightly-spaced pedalboard. Guitar leads are often made physically fatter than they need to be precisely so they don't kink as easily, which helps make them more robust.
    Ah, yes, that makes sense. Otherwise the same in terms of single core, shielding mesh and so on?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    Mattharrier said:

    Ah, yes, that makes sense. Otherwise the same in terms of single core, shielding mesh and so on?
    Usually, yes - or so close it doesn't really make any noticeable difference over the lengths involved.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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