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DNWTB: John East pre-amp

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FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14321
edited April 2022 in Basses £
Cheapskate attempt to avoid paying full MSRP for a shiny, brand new Uni-Pre 4.

Any unloved Uni-Pre 3, Uni-Pre 4 or second generation U-Retro for sale?

Also contemplating P-Retro and a Vol/Blend module. 


I have EMG Active EQ and pickups available to trade, if of interest.
Be seeing you.
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Comments

  • martmart Frets: 5205
    edited November 2021
    Wasn't @Bridgehouse trying to sell one of these?
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24578
    edited November 2021
    mart said:
    Wasn't @Bridgehouse trying to sell one of these?
    No, I have one in my Shuker and it’s going nowhere. No one in their right mind would sell one if they had one either
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14321
    mart said:
    Wasn't Bridgehouse trying to sell one of these?
    If he were, I am confident that he would have already mentioned it elsewhere.



    The more I read about John East products, the more I appreciate what has gone into them. The prices are high but, to me, justifiable for what the systems do.

    EMG Active EQ systems and ABC Balance controls are indubitably of professional quality but do not properly compensate for the output difference between a P middle pickup and a long J bridge pickup.

    In the unlikely event of sourcing a Uni-Pre 3 at modest cost, I would be "forced" to fill the fourth control hole with a series/parallel mode switch for my modified Bartolini 8S.
    Be seeing you.
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14321
    The more I read about John East products, the more I appreciate what has gone into them.
    I have since discovered something that DOES NOT go into John East products. Namely; the chunky output conductor and shield cable of Bartolini pickups!

    Attempting to tighten the screw terminals on the PCB damaged the terminals themselves, raising them from the PCB. This falls foul of the "rough handling" clause in the warranty BUT there is no warning of maximum acceptable cable diameter in the fitting instructions. 

    So, despite taking all reasonable precautions, I have destroyed my investment.

    Consequently, I no longer feel any desire to waste any more money on this brand. I shall no longer recommend them to other Fretboarders. Where I have recommended this brand in the past, I shall delete my posts.
    Be seeing you.
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  • BorkBork Frets: 252
    edited April 2022
    The thing I like about an East Pre is that the treble boost is so sweet.  I actually have one spare but it's a mm pre with u retro mid sweep module and I'm hanging on to it for a future project. 

    [This space for rent]

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  • prowlaprowla Frets: 4896
    The more I read about John East products, the more I appreciate what has gone into them.
    I have since discovered something that DOES NOT go into John East products. Namely; the chunky output conductor and shield cable of Bartolini pickups!

    Attempting to tighten the screw terminals on the PCB damaged the terminals themselves, raising them from the PCB. This falls foul of the "rough handling" clause in the warranty BUT there is no warning of maximum acceptable cable diameter in the fitting instructions. 

    So, despite taking all reasonable precautions, I have destroyed my investment.

    Consequently, I no longer feel any desire to waste any more money on this brand. I shall no longer recommend them to other Fretboarders. Where I have recommended this brand in the past, I shall delete my posts.

    Hmmm - I think that may be a bit harsh, as it's pretty obvious that the fittings aren't heavy-duty.
    (I know you know this, but...) you could trim the braid down and put sleeving around it or even solder a thinner wire to it; I'm sure I've seen cables which run a thin bare wire along the length to use as the shield connection.
    Not gloating or anything; I've borked one or two things in my time too!
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  • KebabkidKebabkid Frets: 3301
    edited April 2022
    I tell you what..those Sire active V7 preamps in the Marcus Miller basses are no slouches. If you can find one, would they work and be a cheaper alternative?
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