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"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
An odd feature I discovered was that the amps start to sound drastically more open with the treble around 2 o'clock or thereafter (they didn't sound great any lower than that). Pretty loud on full blast too!
surface mount components on some of there amps and so serviceability could be a problem further down the line !
Check out a guy on YouTube "Psionic" He is an amp tech and explains most of the issues on modern day amps in regards to
repair and design ! The best advice I would give regarding guitar amps is buy something that is hand wired with either
point to point or turret board construction and the more basic the better after all most of us use pedals to hone our sound
circuit board amps to a lead free solder and heat from tubes are responsible for a lot of problems.
There are some good companies who do it better but they are more expensive the choice is yours.
I do have some Fender combos Princeton/Blues Jnr/Pro Jnr they seem pretty good at the moment !
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
In fact, many older through-hole PCB amps have issues which can lead to serious difficulty in repairing them, which are nothing to do with the way the components are mounted, but with bad board design and layout (eg Marshall JCM2000s, Fender Blues Junior) or poor physical design and component choice (eg Trace Elliot valve amps, Marshall JTM30/JTM60/JCM600), all of which often end up with burned boards.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Edit- Or maybe it's just me
SMPS power supplies are fine if they are standard off the shelf units you can buy from RS or aliexpress and can easily be replaced with a screw driver and 5 minutes. But if it is some custom item that is built into the main board that would be a design error IMO.
just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
Just poor
@PAL
I respect Psionic's knowledge of valve circuits and have watched quite a few of his videos but I laughed when he mentioned the SM section on one amp being hard to repair, Because I could see the SM pitch was massive to anyone who works with modern stuff like laptop boards and phone boards. Trying to get a QFP 0.4mm pitch chip centred correctly while you tack one leg is tricky, replacing surface mount SM caps, inductors and resistors on an amplifier board isn't really. In many cases it's actually easier because it's all topside work, you don't even get the board out.
laptops and do this all the time. Yes I agree working topside does make things a bit easier. I should point out I no am tech !
I can manage a bit of PCB but I'm lost on surface mount I leave that to people who know how to do this properly !
Ive been keeping out of the discussions for the obvious reasons - I’m not here to represent Blackstar.
Can you rework a SM PCBA - of course you can. You don’t even need specific tools although they help. You can fault find an SM PCBA using exactly the same techniques as a through hole - you may need a magnifying glass if your eyesight isn’t great, though and the probes on your meter need to be small. I have guys working for me doing this every day - working to component level on SM boards.
One thing that does make SM construction less reliable for amplifiers is vibration. Modern multilayer ceramic caps are very prone to cracking if there's any movement on the board caused by vibration. Recently I repaired a class D amp that had one fail because it was too near a large inductor and the tiny amount of vibration over a period of time had caused it to crack and when they do they fail shorted rather than open. This shorted 2 current sense resistors which stopped the power supply starting.
I'm sure Blackstar have some clever guys who spec the correct resin flex or similar caps, cut vibration slots into the board around sensitive areas etc but I'm seen other amps that don't have these precautions and they will fail after a few years of hard gigging.
The point I'm making is the actual physical construction of the components is what can cause some to fail, not the fact they were operated too near their max voltage limit or had too much current dragged through them. This is something you generally don't see with thru hole components unless they are left dangling in the breeze and the legs fracture.
Thankfully with most amps the pitch of the SM components is quite large due to the higher voltages so it's not the huge issue it is on laptop / phones etc.
It will matter to you one day too. Either that or you won’t be gigging anymore and you can remain blissfully ignorant as to why it’s important.
You could also spend some time on the bass forums. Weight of amps and in particular cabs has been a massive selling point for years.
Guitarists have always been behind the curve compared to acceptance of new ideas in equipment.
https://speakerimpedance.co.uk/?act=two_parallel&page=calculator