Illuminated power switch not working (the bloody amp can hear me)

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spev11spev11 Frets: 326
So after all the shenanigans regarding my thinking of selling my DSL it decided today that its illuminated power switch wouldnt light up. As far as i can tell the amp is working fine, but the light is off( well there is a faint glimmer there but its almost not existent).
  Does it know I was thinking of selling it? Is it the start of AI seeking revenge? Is arnie coming back to liberate it/kill me ?
More importantly is it as simple as just ordering a new switch and wacking it in?

I'm going back to the acoustic I think, at least it works
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Comments

  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72245
    They do that sometimes, it's annoying but usually nothing more than the neon bulb either having failed or come adrift from its connections. You *can* take the switch apart and fix it, but it's difficult and probably not sensible to try if you can get a new switch.

    They're easy to change - they're connected with push-connectors so no soldering needed. (Obviously make a careful note of where each wires goes first.) The only tricky bit is getting the non-return plastic clips back through the hole in the panel.

    Marshall may not sell you a switch now though - they seem to have changed policy regarding safety-critical parts, and you may need an authorised Marshall tech to get one for you. You can get equivalents elsewhere, but they may look subtly different, if that matters.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • spev11spev11 Frets: 326
    ah god no I'm happy to replace the switch but i can't be arsed taking one apart. I'll contact marshall first and if no luck I'll see about finding a similar one )i'm not overly bothered if its a little differernt.
    ta ICBM
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  • BillDLBillDL Frets: 7163
    Just looking at photos of the amp, but I can't really see clearly enough whether the red "power" rocker switch is depressed at the top to turn it on (on/off configuration) or at the bottom (off/on configuration).  I think I have applied all the relevant filters on the RS Components website to show you a selection of red illuminated rocker switches.  If you can get the dimensions of your switch you might find them in the filters as "panel cut-out width", "panel cut-out height" or under the standard height and width "panel cut-out size" filter.  The choose the relevant "switch operation" option.  See what it leaves.


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  • spev11spev11 Frets: 326
    its depress bottom to turn on, i'll have a look at RS, that's where I got the switch for the little orange amp conversion I did.
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  • PALPAL Frets: 533
    This is a common fault on these amps you can get a replacement from Hotrox.
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  • spev11spev11 Frets: 326
    It flickered to life last night, now its back to faintly glimmering (a bit like me with covid at the moment). I get a switch ordered anyway.
    ta all for the advice
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  • spev11spev11 Frets: 326
    Now this is a bit odd, was just having a bit of a browse and ordering the switch, turned the amp on (into standby , let it warm up, then out of standby onto the 20w setting), light dimmed and stayed dimmed for about 4 or 5 minutes perhaps, then the light lit up bright (as before) and the volume (and maybe the "fullness") increased. I've not been able to replicate it (yet) but it was almost like a light bulb that wasn't getting enough power suddenly getting it.
      Could this be indicative of a more complicated problem? 
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  • Alex2678Alex2678 Frets: 1098
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  • spev11spev11 Frets: 326
    Also the switch very very warm (nearly hot) to the touch which i'd not noticed before.
    I hate amps, i'm gonna use my waza air for a bit.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72245
    edited May 2022
    Don’t use the amp until you’ve found out what’s causing that. There’s a poor contact in the switch which has enough resistance to generate a significant amount of power, as well as stop the light working properly. In the worst case it could melt the switch completely.

    It could be a bad contact between one of the push-connectors and the switch - check to see if any of them are loose. If they are you may be able to squeeze the connector slightly with a pair of pliers (with the connector off the terminal) and fix it. If not, the switch is definitely faulty and needs to be replaced.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • spev11spev11 Frets: 326
    cheers ICBM, ive also been in touch with Fairdeal so will see what they say

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