ES-335 build

davros

I'm gassing for an ES-335 but outside of the normal colours (cherry, blonde, sunburst and a few black), they're crazy expensive. And, anything recent from Gibson USA has chrome hardware so I'd want to replace it all.

So, looks like a new over the winter build is in order and it's 4 months since I finished the last one.

Probably going to be a similar construction to my ES-337 build but that turned out a little heavy and this will be bigger, so looking to make a couple of changes. Planning to have a separate carved maple back and make the central body sandwich from something light (Spanish Cedar maybe???). Not planning to bend the sides as it seems like about 10 times as much work for a single build, for the sake of slightly more efficient wood usage. So, will be hollowed out from a big blank again.

Last time the top and back was probably 7 to 8mm thick so will be carving this thinner. Also, will weight relieve the centre block from the bridge to the tail a bit like a gretsch jet.

Likely going for a solid colour on the body, with natural mahogany neck. Was thinking of getting TDog Customs to go a blue sparkle finish but he just announced he was stopping finishing work.

Sill to decide whether this will be a 335, 345 or 355, but that can come once I've built some of the body.

Previous build for reference, and old top test on top of a 335 template below to show the size difference.
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/203663/smaller-es-335-es-337-build

davros

Maybe like one of these 2 but no diamond f holes

Basher

Hollowbody fan here so I'd question the need for a centre block at all!

If you do want one, and I understand that might be the sound you're after, didn't Gibson use balsa in one model?*

I'm guessing that a less dense wood would lead to a slightly hollower sound but it might be worth some research. The Yamaha ES-alikes I've owned had mahogany centre blocks which I thought gave a slightly more solid body tone than the Gibsons that used (I think) maple.

I also think that you can scoop quite a bit out of the block before the bridge to tailor the tone. My slightly "plunky" (in a good way) ES345 reissue has a big chunk cut out for the varitone and I like the sound more than any 335 I've played.

*Edit. It was the ES135, definitely a cheaper model. I did play one once though and really liked it.

davros

I want to retain a bit of rigidity so I can play it in the band without too much feedback. Was thinking of something like the pic below. Don't know what balsa's tone properties are, I'd imagine a little dull, but as the sides and centre block will be the same blank, it needs to be a bit less dentable.

danishbacon

I vote 330, convinced now it is the best form factor Gibson has ever made. 

WezV

looks like a lot of fun.

If you need a super light and wide body bank for the core, I might be able to help. I still have some wood  that fits the bill, i think it is okoume.   I have some 38mm thick blanks that are 18" wide and 20" long.  Weighs nothing 

davros

Hi Wez, that sounds perfect! Just the right size too, it only needs to be 34mm thick for the core. I'll PM you.

MikeP

So solid carved semi hollow body? Sounds great. Parallelogram inlays I hope. 

davros

Yeah, basically. Parallelograms, dots, blocks or trinity Lopez diamonds?? 

davros

One thing for sure (or two things), the upper strap button will be on the horn, not the back of the neck and the jack socket will be on the side, not the front!

MikeP

Blocks or parallelogram 345 or 355 would be my vote, I really like freddie Kings 70s one but I dont know if that style of whammy bar is any good. 

stickyfiddle

I’ll be watching this with interest. I really want to build something like this myself when I get the opportunity with the right tools and time. 

I’d aim for something halfway between 330 and 335 for the block. It only take a fairly small soundpost under the bridge to make a 330 really quite manageable for feedback, so half a block would be awesome imo

markj

Basher said:

Hollowbody fan here so I'd question the need for a centre block at all!

If you do want one, and I understand that might be the sound you're after, didn't Gibson use balsa in one model?*

I'm guessing that a less dense wood would lead to a slightly hollower sound but it might be worth some research. The Yamaha ES-alikes I've owned had mahogany centre blocks which I thought gave a slightly more solid body tone than the Gibsons that used (I think) maple.

I also think that you can scoop quite a bit out of the block before the bridge to tailor the tone. My slightly "plunky" (in a good way) ES345 reissue has a big chunk cut out for the varitone and I like the sound more than any 335 I've played.

*Edit. It was the ES135, definitely a cheaper model. I did play one once though and really liked it.

The centre block in my Custom shop 335 is spruce and my USA 345 is maple.

davros

Looks like the centre will be suspected Okume courtesy of Wez. However that will only be 34mm thick. Where Gibson normally use kerfed spruce between the maple centre block and the pressed top, I'll just be not carving out that part of the top, so it will be maple for both the front and back. I may, as well as shortening or weight relieving the centre block carve away the top at those points to match. Will have to see as it progresses.

I need to order wood, so the decision of 335/355 needs to be made because of the fingerboard wood. I'm going for rosewood as I think I prefer the simpler 335 stylings.

F15hface

Split the difference (and inlays), do a 345. 

Roland

stickyfiddle said:

I’ll be watching this with interest. I really want to build something like this myself when I get the opportunity with the right tools and time. 

A hollow body is on my list too.

abw1989

davros said:

Yeah, basically. Parallelograms, dots, blocks or trinity Lopez diamonds?? 

Trini Lopez inlays and diamonds holes!

davros

More progress than expected today as the postman delivered a body blank. Not quite long enough to fit the horns when glued straight, so a little twist flying V side, and it all fits. The little cutouts are to give a flat surface for clamping.

Next up flattening and thicknessing to 34mm with a router sled.

davros

Body now nice and flat and 34mm thick. Next I've been working on the templates. Lots needed for the top carve. I've refined a few times on paper, and I'm happy with this set. May not be 100% Gibson accurate but these should give a nice bulbous top, rounded horns and a narrow recurve at the edges, while having a straight pickup plane down the centreline.

Next up, cutting out the cavity template from the bit of MDF in the background and jointing the back.

davros

After a couple of weeks of work trips, I've made a start on the top (or maybe back).

Jointed the 2 pieces of maple and used the router sled to make the back nice and flat then a ton of passes with the router with an extended base for stability. 9 1.2mm steps in total.

It always looks like poo at this stage but a little time with the sander will hopefully reveal a nice carve.

DartmoorHedgehog

OK here's a possibly silly question... How do you keep the router template still without leaving a mark on the body?  I can't see any clamps in the picture, and there don't seem to be any screw holes in the body.  Was it glued on or something?

EDIT - think I'm just being thick.  Double-sided tape, right?