Wudtone Constant Pivot Bridge offer only for THEFRETBOARD MEMBERS

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Hello, DR Bob bagged himself one of our Constant Pivot Bridge plates, that didn't quite pass quality control (at 50% discount).

Hoping soon we will hear ( DR Bob are you in whammy bar heaven yet?)  what he thinks of it.

We have a couple of other Vintage spaced, the odd MIM here that we class as seconds and won't be retailed. Only offered here at 50% discount and come with same return for refund if not absolutely delighted guarantee. 


Private Message me, if you would like one. 

kind regards 

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Comments

  • Pm'd.
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  • DrBobDrBob Frets: 2998
    I feel compelled to point out that much as I did receive said CP bridge from Andy after some great coomunication and a hell of a deal too that I did shortly after sell the body it was bound for onto @Aidanspaghetti . Having done that I then gave the bridge to @Travisthedog who has recently fitted it to his Fender AVHR57 Strat.

    Trav is already reporting a massively improved acoustic ring from the guitar and hopefully will chip in more later.

    Somewhat absurdly I have just bought another guitar that might need a 56mm spaced bridge plate so I may have another one off of Andy on Payday...
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  • Pretty intrigued... will be in touch when I have some spare moolah. Thanks for the offer, very kind of you :)
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  • andypwudtoneandypwudtone Frets: 287
    edited October 2013
    Hey no worries, in case anyone drops by, is also intrigued as to how the Wudtone CP ( or TVT as it will be known soon)  bridge deals with the flaws introduced by Leo Fender in the original design. SEE BELOW

    The starting point was to ( like the original) keep the bridge connected to the body. In our humble opinion this delivers better sustain / tone ( than a 2 post/floating type trem) . The Wudtone TVT ( Tuned Vintage Trem) starts by being connected to the body, whilst being able to pivot at a constant point on the bearing screws to ensure accurate tuning. pls see image below. 
    image
    The pivot point (red dot ) stays constant  and the green arrows show the range of contact point between the bridge plate and the body ( or shim we supply). You don't have to fit the shim but it helps to spread the load on the body, increases the contact area and gives a lower friction metal to metal contact where the bridge slides over it ( a smear of 3 in one wont go amiss here ) . This increases the sensitivity, improves feel especially for the light chord shimmer type of use. Some customers also remove a bit of finish, wood, essentially to recess the shim ( only requires .5mm depth) , so it sits level with the body. I don't bother,  but they swear it helps the tone even more. I can understand that if it is then sat on bare wood rather than some spongy plastic poly s??? or if they have the bridge decked and so then there will be maximum bridge  to body contact. On that point the bridge is machined from C75 H&T carbon steel ( 1470nmm2), ie we start with hardened material and so it doesn't either get bent up at the back or heat treated. Because of this It is perfectly flat underneath ( you will see if you look closely most other bridges that are bent / heat treated are not usually actually flat underneath , they are usually convex). There is another unique feature underneath which also increases the amount of bridge in contact with the body. The bridge doesn't have any countersinks underneath see  the wudtone below on the left along side an old Wilkinson. 
    image

    It would be easier, cheaper to use countersinks but, all vintage style bridges only have the same footprint to work with and it helps to have as much bridge body contact as possible to enhance sustain and vintage tone. The Wudtone TVT bridge is made so that 67% of the available footprint length is in contact with the body. In comparison a stock F / Callaham with countersinks manages around 45%. The other bridge you see in the picture (Wilkinson with elongated countersinks) only 21%. More bridge/body contact = more sustain and vintage tone.  The proof of the pudding is in the eating, so to speak, so look forward to hearing feedback as to how folks are getting on in due course. kind regards 
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  • Really can't wait till I've got the body sorted - then it'll be time to order the finishing kit, screws, springs, claw and tone block (er, the big sticky out bit in the picture above, whatever it's called) so I can finally piece it together.  

    I JUST NEED TEH MONEY FOR TEH GUITAR
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