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I have one of those and two of the GMF1400CEs - the palm router is really, really neat. Plenty of power as you say, and a lot easier to manoeuvrer than the big stuff.
Thanks for your additional comments today @WezV and @Sporky. All helpful stuff.
I'm beginning to see how it works now: I came on here needing a replacement router and now I'm convinced I need at least two different types and, of course, an essential pin router. MAS (machine aquisition syndrome) is setting in and ultimately will lead to lusting after the sort of workshop that @Sporky is building at present. Oh dear. I'm going to cover my ears now.......
If you're making more one-off stuff I'm not sure it offers as big an advantage - but one of the chaps who use one can probably clarify.
I like the fact I don't have to route hand held, I just had enough of it tbh
You can just tape a template underneath to ride on the pin anyway
The other thing I like is being able to do pickup cavities on a neck plane after the neck and fretboard is on and i can place my pickup cavities where I want them
I rebuilt a guitar I built years ago and did scratch my head before doing p90 routes, i repurposed a carrier board i already had, you can see where your cutting and i wrap tape around the pin to make the cut smaller and just peel the tape off bit by bit to get a perfect fit
Worked perfectly
I have got a Bosch gkf600 coming for small stuff, fretboard radius jig, truss rod channels with a jig and binding channel jig
(formerly customkits)
A fingerbord radius jig is the next thing to build.
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
It's a Trend accessory. £14.95 at Axminster.
I ended up going back to using the supplied 12mm socket adjusteronce I drilled the right sized hole in the aluminium table insert.
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
That doesn't make any sense to me, so I'm assuming it's not the same thing!
This replaces the simple marked rod that is usually supplied, which you manually move up and down a hole in the chassis, then tighten up a locknut.
You pass this through the same hole, then screw it onto the longer of the 3 x M5 adjustable stops on the turret. it's threaded internally.
The brass part is clamped/retained in the boss where the old plain rod fitted.
(formerly customkits)
It is a bit dirty & greasy now but when it is clean you can see the torq hole in the middle more easily.
Before I drilled the hole (17mm) you see in the orange aluminium insert I had a much smaller hole that I could get a torq screwdriver into to raise and lower the router in the table.
It wasn't very secure though and the torq bit started to thread the internal bit of the adjuster so I had to drill a larger hold to allow the 12mm adjuster to get in there.
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.
https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/
I like the idea of all the other radius available though
Can you show us how it works, I'm sure others would be interested too
(formerly customkits)
Nomad
Nobody loves me but my mother... and she could be jivin' too...
I use one of these mounted in a table, it has a proper on/off switch which is helpful (as opposed to handle triggered like a lot of the competition, which makes things awkward for a table!). I believe Kreg make inserts that are predrilled for Triton.
Also comes with the winder handle for above table adjustment. UK company too I believe.
I've a cheap makita laminate router copy for light overhead routing.