It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
https://www.studiospares.com/Cables-Leads/Connectors-XLR/Neutrik-NC3MD-LX-Chassis-3-PIN-Silver-Male_511140.htm
Scroll through here
https://www.studiospares.com/Cables-Leads/Connectors.htm
Honestly I use nothing else for guitar, except a Matrix power amp for my cabs.
http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-chassis-connectors/d-series/
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
The silicon surrounds serve no purpose other than making the connectors stick out further - this is in my view bad rack building anyway, as I think the connectors should be rear-loaded, not front, so just the working surface pokes through the panel. Much prettier. Like this:
As for the picture you posted of the back - it's just heat shrink slid back up the cable and shrunk once connections have been made. Go for it, if you want - but I have built a lot of racks without, and have had no issues. If anything, it makes it harder to fix bad joints! The only time I would worry is if the back of the rack is really really tight and there is a chance of something shorting out..
Two tips - Neutrik make a 'mounting plate' which replaces the 2 nuts per connector. These are very much worth it (especially for this kind of quantity) - unless you are well practiced and own a M3 nut spinner!
Also.. Buy hex headed M3 bolts (bonus points for black colour, so they look flat against the black panel!) - the heads in the crosshead ones are so soft, you will end up chewing them up to get them tight. This doesn't happen with hex heads. Make sure the bolts are countersunk, and make sure the holes in the panel are countersunk (you may need to do this dependent on who you buy the blank panel from).
Yes, I am a massive rack nerd, I have built a lot, and apply lots of OCD to them!!
Where would I find a decent plate with countersunk holes?
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
So:
Rack Panel
Mounting Frames
Output XLRs
FASLink XLR
Jack Sockets (These are balanced, can be used for either - just use T&S contacts for unbalanced/mono, or better yet, short the R&S contacts together)
USB Socket (the picture is the wrong way round, but the USB insert is reversible)
Powercon Connector
Get one of these boots for the powercon, as otherwise the connections on the inside of the rack are touch-able.. And to quote
@Sporky - 'Mains is ouchy if you get it up you'..
Irritatingly CPC don't do the right sort of bolts, but something like this would do fine - or you may be able to source these locally.
Anyhow, I think that should be a good starter for you!
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922