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For a 2203, I don't think there is a better one than the Powerbrake, although I haven't tried some of the new options.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I also used a Two Notes Torpedo Reload and that was even better - but not by that much and they are *expensive*
I've just ordered one as a 20db reduction should be enough plus it has a built in cab emulation.
I will be using mine with a Friedman Butterslax.
There is a work-around - if you set the amp to half the impedance of the Hotplate - but it's still not ideal. The Powerbrake is much better because its impedance curve rises sharply with frequency - actually slightly more than a real speaker - but this is fine for Marshalls.
The Hotplate is excellent with amps like BF/SF Fenders and Mesas, which prefer a low mismatch rather than a high one. It's not a bad bit of kit, just the wrong one for this amp.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marshall-PB100-Power-Brake-Guitar-Amp-Attenuator-in-Black/253216471770?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
£199 From gear 4 music with free delivery.
They had 2 16ohm versions in stock when I bought mine.
Surprisingly, I found you can get good sounds out of them even at very low settings provided you use them in a non-intuitive way - or at least the opposite of what you would think, and the attenuator makers tell you, of turning the amp up to get power-stage distortion.
I found it worked far better to first set the attenuator to roughly the level you were likely to want, then dial the amp in for that level with the MV down low as well. Like that, I could get a Powerbrake to sound fairly decent with a 2203 on the lowest click (-30dB), with the gain up fairly high and the MV on about 1.5. EQ rather different from normal - bass full, middle nearly off, treble low, presence high if I remember right - and a big cabinet still sounded better than a smaller less efficient one. It's a lot of faff to get a tolerable tone at TV volume though.
I don't like power scaling, I've never heard it sound as good as a decent master volume. I would maybe use it on an amp that doesn't have one, if there was no other option - but I still prefer the right attenuator.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Daft expensive but one of the best bits of kit Ive ever purchased. Well worth the corn, and the F X loop is incredible.
I wasn't thinking of using it for home use, I just wanted to be able to turn the amp up a little more in a live context as I find that I prefer the feel and response of the amp once you get over 3 on the master.
Sounds like a win win to me, in this case I could flog my jcm1 combo and use my jcm800 all the time !!!