Hi All,
At some point I need to learn and practice levelling and crowning frets. I have seen a few people post on here about tips so I know they would be interested in tips for starters. Basically, I would like the fret aspect of the setup of my guitars done to a high standard. I know some luthiers that are superb but a) It takes time to get the guitar to them and b) The good ones (quite rightly) are not cheap. I have tried a few others and . . . . .
Any of my more valuable guitars I don't think I would ever touch unless I became super confident. I have some lesser value guitars but I think I will buy 1 (or 2) very cheap bolt on necks just to practice. I understand levels etc courtesy of my plastering apprenticeship - shine a light along a 'flat wall' and see what bumps and dips appear or run your finger (amazingly sensitive) over the edge of a patched plaster wall where the old plaster meets the new. Ever plastered a squash court
;-) This qualifies me I think to venture into fret levelling, I am sure I can do the job if I understand the mechanics and the gotchas.
I have just watched part 1 and two of this youtube video which covers the mechanics very well I think:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDy7cF255dY I know he starts with a stanley knife blade as a rocker which seems a little crude but later you realise he was probably just assessing the situation and demonstrating any 3 fret straight edge will suffice.
Any comments about his approach appreciated. He seems to be very thorough and takes time and care but also uses the basic tools. Please remember to like/subscribe if you find useful. Duncan does mention on there that he usually uses diamond tipped crowning files - are they worth the money? I realise they are good accurate time savers if doing the job regularly but I guess you also need to buy the correct crowning file for each group of fret wire?
Any better/preferred approach in viedo format?
Thanks Folks
Comments
A levelling beam
A notched straight edge
Fret rocker
Crowning file
Fret end file
Masking tape
Fresh Stanley blades
Plenty of wet and dry paper from 120/240 upto micromesh 12,000 or so
Double sided tape
Marker pen
Ive probably missed something but other than that get a few el cheapo necks and give it a blast.
• Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/@Goldeneraguitars
Used to be terrified of the thought of fretwork a few years back - but it’s like anything with decent tools and practice you’ll get the hang of it. So much help online these days too!
www.rexterguitars.co.uk
I use a milled ally levelling beam and two flat diamond files, one shorty about 75mm for crowning and ends. Each edge I took the sharpness and grit off, so that doesn't cut in. A longer diamond file for doing fallaway.
I like crowning with the dinky flat file. Lets me see how it's progressing up to the crown, like the control, one file works for any fret size.
Got a Gurian 3-1 crowning file but didn't like the chattering and fixed sizes of the inserts, but I do use it to start off fret end rounding.
So pretty cheap to get going. Plus tape & sandpaper, I use Scotchbrite as well. I've never used a fret rocker, I'm mostly doing the whole board and if there's one problem fret on a strung-up guitar you can tell where that is.
With the beam and the sandpaper strips, a quick squirt and wipe with WD40 or similar de-clogs it and the paper lasts for donks, I've done 20-something on the same two bits of paper. Not that it's expensive but the de-clarting keeps it cutting evenly, and less faff changing strips & cleanup etc.
• Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/@Goldeneraguitars
However, I have switched to fret levelling with the neck under string tension. This has allowed more accuracy and also enables a lower action to be achieved.
I followed Sam Deeks method here
Having built three guitars and re-fretted a number using this method, I have found it best for me. (Not everyone will agree but there you go).
I also found I did not need to add fall away which I felt seemed hit and miss and also defeated the object of levelling the whole board.
I love the low-tech approach
I watched the sam deeks video. this idea has also been around the net.. alongside which is better?
the person that does my fretwork (although I would like to start doing it) does it with the strings and neck off (traditional) and has never been an issue.
regarding the strings on method I was wondering this: if the guitar is first set up and under tension, then the fretwork will reflect that particular set up. what would happen if you decide to change the string gauge, or adjust the action, or put more relief in the neck? then would the frets still cater? and would it cause an issue. however, if the neck is off and levelled the traditional way, then the frets are at one level which means it should cater for any set up. I say this because I can change the string gauges on my guitar and the guitar will play fine.
discuss
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I find adding slope to the bridge end of the fretboard a bit hit and miss and as I don't like guess work when it comes to frets, like the strings on approach.
Cheers
I have started using the 'neck under tension' method for newly built necks. This allows the neck to move into its set position under tension from the strings, then I fret level and dress.
I would add that I set the string height and nut height before fret levelling as well although this is after around a week to allow the neck to move.
My old Westone I levelled with a straight neck and that too worked okay, just not happy about adding slope.
I think when changing string gauge you won't have an issue. This is because you will need to adjust the nut and string height to allow for the new gauge. I don't believe the fret under tension method will cause an issue to the new setup but I have not done this so am not an authority.
Best have a go on an old neck using both methods. Whichever one works for you is the one to go for.
Cheers
My neck relief went convex over the summer, in the past I've chickened out of adjusting the truss rod
but I did it yesterday, I've got the neck relief back to where it was before, so leaving it to settle for a bit now.
Any thoughts on the Chris Alsop diamond crowning file?
Best way to polish the frets to a mirror finish - wet n dry paper / micromesh, or fret rubbers?
Nut files - Do I take the plunge and get the Stewmac ones, or is there a UK alternative?