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Or alternatively, run it on a daisy-chain with any other pedal that takes a standard supply - that bypasses the extra components via the shared ground connection.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
by reducing the value of (or removing and jumpering) that resistor you feed the pot more signal to play with.
this gives you more scope, but can also allow the effect to run into self-oscillation and noisiness, which not everyone wants.
so the value of that stock resistor is a happy medium starting point, but not a biggie to change.
these are often accompanied with a pot substitution so that extra dose of signal is better bracketed by that control, instead of being 'bunched up' in a quarter turn of the dial, with the rest useless or noise.
caps mods can also be done if the changes create more frequency depth.
freestompboxes has a whole modding my pedal section. these things are often far simpler than specialist ebay modsters trying to sell you a particular mod will lead you to believe.
if you are thinking about getting a pedal modded maybe approach one of the pedal people here (made in uk section) and tell them what you want, with a link to the mod if you can find details.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein