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also ebony board v rosewood - not sure why but it does feel a touch different - bit like the feel of maple v rosewood on a Strat
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Headstock angle I'm not sure about but I would imagine they are as they are different eras.
*An Official Foo-Approved guitarist since Sept 2023.
Even two sets of say, 10s made by the same brand could be different enough from each other for you to notice.
If you took 100 sets of 10s and measured the high E with a decent vernier caliper you might find anything from close to .009 to not far from .011 at the extremes and plenty that were .0095 or .0105.
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Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
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Headstock thickness, tuner shaft length and the number of string wraps on the post will affect the break angle of the string over the nut. Headstock break angle can be tweaked slightly even if the angles built in the wood can’t be changed.
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Which strings felt too slinky when you went to .9’s? Or was it all of them?
If the G, B, E strings felt ok but the lower 3 felt too slack, then a hybrid set of .9 - 46’s may be a better shout. Mixing the best of both worlds. I love em!
Frets could play a role like others have said. I know I find it easier to bend when I can get right under a string to bend, and I’m used to this on xj frets which allow it.
On my fender tele, with medium jumbo’s, whilst the string tension doesnt feel wildly different, the general feel of bending does, as it has a lower action too, so less room between string and board to get my fingers under.
No problem, but I think it means I have to concentrate harder, probably play a bit better etc, which to lazy fingers with ingrained habits and muscle memory, is a lot more taxing. Either I tire quicker, or simply adjusting angles slightly for better technique probably uses more energy or isnt what I’m used to so feels like its harder.
Could be a bit of finger drag going on too.
That goes out the window a bit once you start playing. Bend a string and the additional force is spread out across the whole string length, not just the playing length. Lower break angles at nut and bridge increase this affect, higher ones decrease it. The length of string either side plays a role too.
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Nut is an interesting one as I've been threatening a while to get the nut sorted on it as it needs some work (its just old and well used) and I'm now wondering if that is a factor here..
Tech time methinks..
it may be preferential from some idea of balanced tension, but I think there is a clear tonal improvement from having it decked tight which overrides that for me
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Twas something I read briefly once and never actually found out more on, til just now