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Contact the seller either way - but if they won’t supply the bolts you’ll need to know what thread they are and how thick the baffle is. The bolts should be roughly as long as the thickness of the baffle plus the rim of the speaker, so they go nearly to the front of the T-nuts but don’t stick out, or they may puncture the grille cloth.
More or less any wire will be fine for connecting the speaker as long as it will handle more than about 2 or 3A - a bit of old 2-core mains cable is perfect. There’s no special magical property needed.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The cab is pre-fitted with t-nuts (if you push your finger between the the baffle and the cloth on the inside you should feel the nut fitted, you generally can't see them from the inside) which means you will need 5mm bolts, usually 25mm in length should do it.
I never even heard of a "baffle" before, in all my years of playing, that's how much of a rookie I am with installing speakers etc...
Some locking washers is a good idea too
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-Zinc-Internal-Shakeproof-Locking-Washers-Crinkle-Shake-Proof/332654165003?hash=item4d73bbbc0b:rk:5:pf:0&var&checksum=33265416500305a8b3c9788b48578e51f490e71331f9&enc=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
Oh, don't tighten them down too hard or you'll bend the speaker frame
Should I be going for the M5 locking washers too? (silly question I know...)
With a 12mm baffle I use M5x20, but with plain and lock washers.
You don't want the end of the screw protruding out if the tee nut.
And yes, very poor to sell an empty cab with no fittings and wiring.
Rift Amplification
Brackley, Northamptonshire
www.riftamps.co.uk
I probably should have researched the screw part earlier though. I thought they would have come with the speaker.
Save your embarrassment for doing something like being afraid to ask, then using the wrong type of screw, buggering the T-nut, being unable to get the bolt back out again, chewing up the baffle when you put enough force on to spin the T-nut in the wood, then finally trying to drill it out and punching a hole in the grille cloth when the drill breaks through...
Yes, I've seen that done!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
is it crazy how saying sentences backwards creates backwards sentences saying how crazy it is?