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Yes, the shaft of the switch is missing. This might be intentional. The switch could act as a preset. Shortening the switch lever shaft avoids unintentional changes on stage.
Thanks guys. I bought it with intermittent fault so fingers crossed it could be this, a new switch is already on its way!
To select two different component values, they only need to be switched at *one* side of the component. That means you can then wire both poles of the switch in parallel instead of series, which more or less eliminates the possibility of a failure.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
(i'm new to this game if you hadn't noticed!)
If you're switching cap or resistor values you can even do it better by using combined values, with one permanently in the circuit - failure proof. eg if you want to use .22uF and .47uF caps, use two .22s and use the switch to add the second one in parallel. (.44uF is effectively the same as .47.)
So much that you see in guitar gear is not designed with apparently any regard for failure modes at all, and very often far more unreliable than it needs to be.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
PS-When I took the board out there was one of the mod wires un attached so I think Ive successfully diagnosed why it’d stopped working!
Thanks all.
https://i.imgur.com/Z8YPyLV.jpg
This ought to be less prone to impact breakages and, in the event of one capacitor failing, you have others to get you to the end of your set.