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FS: valves - 12AX7, ECC83, ECC82, RFT, Mullard, Mazda, Pinnacle, Trigon, Engl - more added

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ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
edited November 2020 in Amps £
NB - Mullard and Brimar ECC83s all gone now. All others still available unless marked sold.

RFTs added - scroll down.

All these are old used valves but are tested and working, and don't have any obvious problems with noise, microphonics etc. I will test them again in a guitar amp before sending them out to be sure, but given their age I cannot 'guarantee' them as such beyond that they will be working when sent.

I'll start with some ECC83/12AX7s - Mullards, Brimars and some Mazda-labelled Brimars. Mullards £30 each including postage, Brimar/Mazdas £20 each including postage - I'll discount it a bit for multiples of over two.

Mullards and Brimars all sold.


"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

"Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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Comments

  • HootsmonHootsmon Frets: 15924
    edited April 2020
    John

    What Kingsley pedal would most benefit from one of these fine Mullards.....a boost like the Page and Serf or a OD like the Harlot or Minstrel?

    Are these UK factory and how do they differ from yellow print valves?

    would they be nice in a '57 5F1?
    tae be or not tae be
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    Hootsmon said:

    What Kingsley pedal would most benefit from one of these fine Mullards.....a boost like the Page and Serf or a OD like the Harlot or Minstrel?

    Are these UK factory and how do they differ from yellow print valves?

    would they be nice in a '57 5F1?
    No idea, sorry! Never tried a Kingsley.

    The white-label Mullards are mostly UK-made, although there may be some which are Philips (Netherlands) - I can check. Yellow labels should be all UK.

    In a 5F1 I would usually use US-made ones - I think it suits the voicing of the amps more, and is just "right" :). I'll PM you with a list once I've had a look what I've got.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • HootsmonHootsmon Frets: 15924
    US made? yeah let us know then John
    tae be or not tae be
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  • smigeonsmigeon Frets: 282
    Hi, I'll take 1 Mullard and 1 Brimar, please. Will PM you now...
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    edited May 2020
    Thanks!

    Some ECC82s...

    Six Four NOS 1960s Mullards in original boxes and wrappings - £30 each. Two have damaged boxes with tabs missing. I also have the 'Top 10 Plus' three-pack box, which I'll throw in if anyone wants three valves.




    NOS Pinnacle in original box, and NOS Trigon in original (plain) box, which I forgot to put in the pic - RFTs from the early 80s. Brimar CV491 Military-spec. All £20 each 

    'Q-Vees ECC82 Super' and a couple of other/unidentified NOS - edit: I think these are Hungarian-made Tungsrams - in boxes. £15 each



    All prices including postage - I'll discount it a bit for multiples over two.

    Notice the original 1980s price for the Pinnacle too .

    Brimar and two boxed NOS Mullards sold.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • brucegillbrucegill Frets: 710
    ICBM said:
    Hootsmon said:

    What Kingsley pedal would most benefit from one of these fine Mullards.....a boost like the Page and Serf or a OD like the Harlot or Minstrel?

    Are these UK factory and how do they differ from yellow print valves?

    would they be nice in a '57 5F1?
    No idea, sorry! Never tried a Kingsley.

    The white-label Mullards are mostly UK-made, although there may be some which are Philips (Netherlands) - I can check. Yellow labels should be all UK.

    In a 5F1 I would usually use US-made ones - I think it suits the voicing of the amps more, and is just "right" :). I'll PM you with a list once I've had a look what I've got.
    If you find another US Mullard ECC83/12AX7 For a 5F1, can you let me know? I’d take one :) Thanks. 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    brucegill said:

    If you find another US Mullard ECC83/12AX7 For a 5F1, can you let me know? I’d take one :) Thanks. 
    I don't have any US-made Mullards, sorry - I meant US brands like RCA, GE, Sylvania etc.

    I'm not sure there are US-made Mullards - unless you mean Sylvanias relabelled by Philips. I have a couple of RFTs with original Mullard labels though! (Which I'm not selling, they're too interesting.)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • gringopiggringopig Frets: 2648
    edited July 2020
    .
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  • brucegillbrucegill Frets: 710
    ICBM said:
    brucegill said:

    If you find another US Mullard ECC83/12AX7 For a 5F1, can you let me know? I’d take one :) Thanks. 
    I don't have any US-made Mullards, sorry - I meant US brands like RCA, GE, Sylvania etc.

    I'm not sure there are US-made Mullards - unless you mean Sylvanias relabelled by Philips. I have a couple of RFTs with original Mullard labels though! (Which I'm not selling, they're too interesting.)
     No worries! I get what you meant now. Makes more sense lol. Well if you find any us brands just let me know :)
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  • gringopiggringopig Frets: 2648
    edited July 2020
    .
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  • brucegillbrucegill Frets: 710
    gringopig said:
    Mullard 'Made in England' are the best! 

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDvF89Bh27Y
    Love that! Thanks for posting. 
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  • mattacjonesmattacjones Frets: 503
    brucegill said:
    ICBM said:
    Hootsmon said:

    What Kingsley pedal would most benefit from one of these fine Mullards.....a boost like the Page and Serf or a OD like the Harlot or Minstrel?

    Are these UK factory and how do they differ from yellow print valves?

    would they be nice in a '57 5F1?
    No idea, sorry! Never tried a Kingsley.

    The white-label Mullards are mostly UK-made, although there may be some which are Philips (Netherlands) - I can check. Yellow labels should be all UK.

    In a 5F1 I would usually use US-made ones - I think it suits the voicing of the amps more, and is just "right" :). I'll PM you with a list once I've had a look what I've got.
    If you find another US Mullard ECC83/12AX7 For a 5F1, can you let me know? I’d take one :) Thanks.




    Yellow lettering was used for just the year following the date of the 50th anniversary. Valves returned to using the standard white lettering thereafter. However, in 1975 a drum of the yellow paint was found at the Blackburn factory and rather than waste it, production valves once more had yellow lettering until the drum was exhausted.
    "
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  • I would be interested in a JAN spec GEC 12AX7 or similar.

    If you don't turn one up I would take one of the Brimars
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    I would be interested in a JAN spec GEC 12AX7 or similar.

    If you don't turn one up I would take one of the Brimars
    I've had a couple of requests for US valves and I've found the box now, so I'll get back to you tomorrow :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • Gracias!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    edited May 2020
    All Mullards and Brimars gone now.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • OssyrocksOssyrocks Frets: 1673
    I was going to put up a similar sale @ICBM as I have quite a number of valves I’ll probably never use either. But in the interest of fair play, I will wait until you’re done and then maybe cater for the latecomers.

    Rob
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    Ossyrocks said:
    I was going to put up a similar sale @ICBM as I have quite a number of valves I’ll probably never use either. But in the interest of fair play, I will wait until you’re done and then maybe cater for the latecomers.
    No problem, thanks! There's been enough interest that I don't think you'll have any trouble. I may hold some back as before to cover possible losses, but if there are any left I also won't re-post those until you've done yours.

    I have a few other types I will be listing at some point too, but feel free to list those first if you have them.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • OssyrocksOssyrocks Frets: 1673
    ICBM said:
    Ossyrocks said:
    I was going to put up a similar sale @ICBM as I have quite a number of valves I’ll probably never use either. But in the interest of fair play, I will wait until you’re done and then maybe cater for the latecomers.
    No problem, thanks! There's been enough interest that I don't think you'll have any trouble. I may hold some back as before to cover possible losses, but if there are any left I also won't re-post those until you've done yours.

    I have a few other types I will be listing at some point too, but feel free to list those first if you have them.
    I've just had a look through my stash, and I'm thinking I should run these all through a tester before offering them for sale. This would sift the wheat from the chaff before I get to testing in a live amplifier. I have some rather pretty ones, Telefunken rib and flat plates, Amperex Bugle Boys etc. 

    @ICBM what do you use to test them first? I would like to invest in an Orange VT1000 but I don't think they make them anymore?

    Rob
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71952
    Ossyrocks said:

    @ICBM what do you use to test them first? I would like to invest in an Orange VT1000 but I don't think they make them anymore?
    I have an old Micronta valve tester - which I used when I tested these valve in batches some time ago - but for the purposes of sending these out, I've done a much simpler test, particularly as valve testers don't show up some of the things you need to know about for guitar amps - hiss, microphonics and just 'good tone' (which can sometimes be a bit off), even if the valve measures OK.

    The test kit is a Mesa V-Twin pedal and a guitar :). It's a proper valve-amp-voltage pedal which on the clean channel uses both valve halves in series, so I put the valve in that, with the gain and volume on the pedal up full, and run it through my Peavey Studio amp both on the clean channel (to listen for general tone and the right amount of gain) and on the amp's distortion channel (to listen for hiss and microphonics - I tap the valve too). If it passes all that and sounds right, it's good to go.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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