How I Put a Marshall MS-2 Into a Guitar (pic heavy)

monofin · April 2020

Stunning craftsmanship and a great idea.
Looking forward to seeing the completed guitar

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

monofin said:

Stunning craftsmanship and a great idea.
Looking forward to seeing the completed guitar

Thanks! I'm always humbled and grateful when at least one person finds my work interesting. Shows I'm not alone

SteveF · April 2020

Definitely an interesting idea!

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

SteveF said:

Definitely an interesting idea!

Thanks, I couldn't think of any reason why not. My only concern was feedback (confirmed in preliminary tests) but I'm confident I've found a solution.

MattNovak · April 2020

Lovely work. Quick question re: the jig, do you use a larger radius 'arch' than you need? Just thinking that if the arches were 12'' radius but the bit was an inch below, it'd be a 10'' cut....

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

MattNovak said:

Lovely work. Quick question re: the jig, do you use a larger radius 'arch' than you need? Just thinking that if the arches were 12'' radius but the bit was an inch below, it'd be a 10'' cut....

Good point. I hadn't actually thought of it. But I think keeping the router perpendicular to the jig means it just follows the shape to repeat the pattern. I didn't notice a difference when I sanded it with my block, and I still had a gap when I tested my wire against the board before fretting so I guess my luck was in?

MattNovak · April 2020

Its early, I may have completely under-thought my comment

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

Don't play it down, it's valid. And I've worked it out...
If I follow the jig keeping the centre of the router base on the curve, then yes it will change the radius slightly, as the bit will be following the curve as if it was attached to the pivot point. So I keep it perpendicular to achieve the same radius as the jig.

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

I think.
But the purpose is to remove waste quickly, and I sand the machine marks out afterwards anyway so I'll get the same radius as my sanding block.

PeteC · April 2020

The ultimate custom practice axe! . Love the concept and the build thread.

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

PeteC said:

The ultimate custom practice axe! . Love the concept and the build thread.

You know, that was part of the motive.
I've got the rear covers done so I'll add the update when I can get the photos on the laptop later

TTony · April 2020

HilditchGuitars said:

My only concern was feedback (confirmed in preliminary tests) but I'm confident I've found a solution.

I thought of attempting something similar recently - putting a simple JamJar amp circuit & speaker into a little Cigar Box guitar.

I ended up making a separate box for the amp though, for precisely that reason (risk of feedback). So interested to see what you solution is ...

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

TTony said:

HilditchGuitars said:

My only concern was feedback (confirmed in preliminary tests) but I'm confident I've found a solution.

I thought of attempting something similar recently - putting a simple JamJar amp circuit & speaker into a little Cigar Box guitar.

I ended up making a separate box for the amp though, for precisely that reason (risk of feedback). So interested to see what you solution is ...

It's only a hunch, so may not work. but I'm this far in so need to see it through either way.

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

Step 4 rear cavity covers
Day 691 in lockdown and still no 14mm forstner bit so decided it was a good idea to make the rear covers.
Lot's of hideous mother of toilet seat needed on this one but to be expected given the nature of it. And black still keeps in the theme so it's not all bad.
So using another trusty template i drew round on said mother of bogseat and proceeded to cut it roughly on the bandsaw. Bet you can guess the next step? Yep, flush trim it with the router! Using the old school trick of masking tape and superglue in place of double sided tape. Gives a good hold and is easily removed, as I didn't want to pull the cellophane off the plastic. quick sand of the edges to smooth them out then check the fit in the cavity - perfect.
Then i marked the location of the area to take the screws, and drilled pilot holes through the cover into the body, with a 2mm bit, then enlarged the holes in the cover with a 3mm and added a countersink.
Using the Marshall amp case I marked the location of the AC in and speaker out ports on the teardrop speaker cover. And checked it again. And again. And again. Then removed the middles with drill bits, a Dremel and needle files. The control cover sat proud, as I expected, due to the PCB of the amp. I couldn't take the route any deeper without risking it breaking so I had to route 1mm out of the back of the cover (and almost right through when i dropped off the end, D'oh!). Pretty pleased how it's all looking now.

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

Masking tape and super glue to hold the template to the cover, and both to the bench for routing

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

Got to label it so i don't cut it upside down

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

All test fitted and screw holes drilled/sunk

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

AC and speaker socket holes. The speaker jack does stick out from the surface a little, but I'm confident it'll be far enough down to not get in the way when playing.

HilditchGuitars · April 2020

Snug as a bug. got some nice gold speaker cloth to go in and make it look pretty

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How I Put a Marshall MS-2 Into a Guitar (pic heavy)

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