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Comments
https://dsgb.net/2021/01/04/stratwiring/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvf6eBdBohA
Doug
nice work but the grounding on the back of the pots is hard work to look neat.
I recently wired my L/H Strat using a shield plate and tri-star earth lugs under the 5-way switch bolts. So .. not pot case soldering reqd!!
I completely agree with you on the back-of-pot soldering. I have never got this to work and look neat. I rough up the metal body with abrasive paper (taking care not to contaminate any electronics with the dust) and then degrease it with isopropyl alcohol; I even added extra flux. From previous struggles, I learned that the mass of metal simply conducts away the heat from a small soldering iron tip too readily to make it work. I use high lead content, low m.p. solder and 250 degC iron temperature but this almost certainly isn't sufficient. I don't want to use high iron temperatures because I am concerned about degrading the track.
I'm an amateur and this was a relatively quick assembly job to tide me over until I get an EMG Dave Gilmour loaded pickguard in early February. I got these hand made Adeson pickups in a small job lot from a mate who tests out pickups for Ade Turner and I wanted to use them rather than keep them indefinitely for a special project in the future.
I simply followed Seymour Duncan diagrams and pictures of the pre-wired pickguards that Fender themselves supply. It was actually my first attempt at wiring a standard Fender pickguard. For sure, if I was ever doing this for a paying customer, I would research neater ways of doing it like your example. I did wonder if there was some kind of neat little multi-lug plate out there as you have described. Now I know!
Thanks for your comment and pictures. Much appreciated. Please would you post a link where I can see/buy these little multi-lug grounding plates.
Doug
You need a really big iron to get the soldering on the backs of the pots really neat, so the whole blob of solder is fully liquid at the same time - at least 50W with a big tip, like the Weller solder station ones.
The separate grounding point is a good idea, but only if *all* the grounds go to it - if you connect the ground path via the shielding you're likely to get noise in the long run, even if not the short term - that's a common problem with old Telecasters and Jazz Basses where they use the control plate as the ground connection.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Doug
dsgb I got these on eBay but they have proven unobtainium to source, I did find an outlet in Germany but min buy was 1000 !!
if you find them, keep in touch and let me know as I only have a few left.
cheers
Mike
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The video has some still images and clips from the pickguard CNC cutting, etc.
Doug
In my opinion, if somebody had the patience to add a 4PDT on/on switch and reconfigure the PCB tracks to permit selectable parallel mode, you'd have a winner.
Interesting that you should mention a selectable parallel mode!
A custom option on the Guyton RS Transporter is a series/parallel toggle switch. Andy has made two with this option that I am aware of, only from his Instagram feed.
https://www.instagram.com/guyton_guitars/
https://www.guytonrstransporter.com/
http://www.guytonguitars.com/rs-transporter.html
Doug