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I'm going to try and mock up some designs, and I'll post there here... but I have the artistic skill of a... insert something that can't draw anaolgy here...
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/387817/#Comment_387817
This is an MDF box inside and oak box, with 3 drivers and 3 mics
I would sell for half what it cost me to build.
for something smaller, the best commercial one was the Hermit cab
I also have one to sell
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/jun03/articles/hermitcab.asp
Whatever you do put a power indicator (Maps do a 200W LED ladder) on the outside of the cab.
When you cannot hear the true level it is all too easy to blow a voice coil and if a valve amp, quickly followed by more expensive bits!
Dave.
Ok but for those not so careful or have friends with HT-60s! https://www.esr.co.uk/velleman/m4307c.htm
Maplin do a much simpler, cheaper version but I can't bloody find it!
Easy enough of course to use Rs and Cs and LEDs to make a two light jobbie but calibration is a problem for many.
Dave.
with more space, there is less chance of volume affecting the sound.
Bandcamp
Spotify, Apple et al
The box will be a resonant chamber like a sealed box loudspeaker and I am not sure foam is the best material to use as an absorbent of the standing waves. It is certainly in the wrong place.
Speaker "wadding need to be positioned at maximum air velocity (which by definition is zero at a wall!) . I would wrap the microphone(s) in a roll of BAF wadding and put a similar roll behind the speaker.
Not even sure angling the baffle will help much? It is non-parallel WALLS you need.
Oh! If only I still had dad's woodwork shop and infinite time and energy. Would that I still had Dad and his cabinet maker's skill!
Dave.