Through neck DC junior build

Danielsguitars

I don't worry about fuck ups it's part of learning and you'll be a better maker after, it's knowing how to put it right that makes a great maker imo

Oh and I never go by any angles I physically measure my bridge height with a straight edge, it's how I got taught making acoustics, too many variables, fretboard thickness is one and a compound radius will be different again, like you said different fret sizes alter it again so I now make my fretboard with frets then get my bridge height.

Alot of people get hung up on angles and don't bother measuring, it's hand made so they won't all be the same.

AustrianJohn

Very interesting thread. What size was the blank you got two through necks from?

WezV

It was roughly 3x4x50" give or take an inch. I would have to measure again to be sure.

I know it wasn't quite long enough for 4 normal one piece neck blanks.

I have a few more in similar dimensions

WezV

gone for a mojoaxe plate

its okay.   Hard to take a picture, but you see how it looks like its out of focus... its  not

this is an out of focus picture of an original

so yeah, the mojoeaxe has less contrast between light and dark, and less definition to the pattern.   It also feels a smidge thinner.  its still very nice, but may  inform the final colour choice a bit as i think it will suit a darker colour better  than a lighter one

WezV

so i have continued to work on this bit by bit between baby stuff.   had a busy week working on another project and managed to get all the woodwork done on this between stages on the other

Its now quite thin compared to a normal DC junior,  Similar to an SG junior.  Neck heaviness doesn't seem to be an issue  - the whole thing in this state weighs 4.8lbs...  so probably 5 1/2lb once done???

one issue is this is my first build trying gorilla glue instead of titebond.   It seems to work well but join lines are darker than I would have liked.  Still need to tidy up around the heel,and finesse of the neck carve.... then its finish sanding

WezV

oh yeah, I added a couple of small contours and will also be reshaping the plate slightly to take it further away from  "clone"

its beautifully resonant in this state.... needs a ncie low to medium power P-90.

Still undecided on finish... may go for a red stain and oil

TTony

WezV said:

one issue is this is my first build trying gorilla glue instead of titebond.   It seems to work well but join lines are darker than I would have liked.  Still need to tidy up around the heel,and finesse of the neck carve.... then its finish sanding

My 2p-worth - I think that darker glue lines are no bad thing on a neck-thru.  It just highlights that it *is* a neck-thru build.

And 5 1/2lbs ... wow!!!

WezV

Oh, it shouldn't be an issue once finished, this wood is very porous and I suspect that has increased the effect.... Just something I will keep in mind if continuing to use this glue

Danielsguitars

Why choose gorilla glue over tightbond

It's not something I've ever considered before, I really like the light weight 

WezV

Only because some people claim good results from it and I noticed it was easily available in Wilkos and B&Q.

  I make a point of trying different construction methods and materials when I get chance.  I learned something about gorilla glue here so it was worth it for me.


  I have used titebond for 15 years without issue, but you only got general purpose wood glue locally back then so it was a special order, or part of a wood order.  Gorilla glue is a good alternative anyone can find locally, but i will probably go back to titebond when this bottle is done.

although the superglue is awesome, good to find two thicknesses of decent superglue so easily availableL

WezV

Just so everyone is clear gorilla glue is just the brand. From there range I used gorilla wood glue here, claims to give an invisible joint, but did not on this wood.


they also make many other glues and tapes with the same brand, but I believe they started with a brown "stick anything to anything" glue.  That's not what I used here.

i have been very happy with the super and epoxy glues 

usedtobe

Loving it!

PhilKing

Looking good Wez. Is the thickness more like the Less Pull Jr that you made me? I was playing the fretless bass this week. I might be using it a lot more, as I just joined a blues band. We do a lot of old blues covers, with 3 ZZ Top too. I'm going to use the fretless for Who Do You Love, I Thank You, Sharp Dressed Man and La Grange.

WezV

If I remember right Its even thinner than the Less Pull. 

WezV

pickup has arrived and finish is on... waiting for a buff and relic... its oxblood over cherry red, so the plan is to relic through a bit... not necessarily in a realistic way

the pickup is a mojo one, but may be a bit too tall for this with the blade on top.. its a stunning looking thing and if it doesn't fit this I will design another guitar around it

TTony

Just recess the cover a little and sink the p'up a little lower in the body?

WezV

TTony said:

Just recess the cover a little and sink the p'up a little lower in the body?

I am considering it, not sure it will look right.  It's only gonna need a few MM. either way.  I will probably put it together and see what I am dealing with.

WezV

SO i have started the "relic" processand want to show you all the stages.  it does not looke pretty yet, it looks quite like the cheapest ebay beltsander relics - but that's kinda the point.  I want a heavy relic look to this so I need to go through those stages to get there

As said in previous post, my aim is not authenticity since i have already moved well past that with this build.  I remember an old archtop which caught my eye years ago in a guitar shop it was a cheap nasty thing with a black to red burst.  In hindsight it was probably some variation on a Framus Black Rose, but massively worn.  the look of the worn edges with red peeking though black stayed with me- so that's what I am going for here

So far, I have sanded in the initial wear, by hand, not with a beltsander






SO thats the major wear.  

Its going to get another sand and polish now, followed by dents and dings, then some  stain on the raw wood bits.  finally it will get a combination of oils stains and waxes to soften all the damage into something that feels well played.

I am happy so far, knowing it looks very disney but it early in the process 

WezV

Just put it together to see if the pickup would fit, and I want to do the dents and dings with hardware in place.

the pickup fits.... Just.  Action can go as low as 1.5mm with leaving  a few mm between the blade and string.  

Still no no pots or plates, but it weighs 5 1/2lb at the moment.   Pics later. 

WezV

i also buffed it up.  you may wonder why i didn't do this until after the wear. its because i always find wear is too obvious if done after buffing.  the process helps soften any sharp edges.  but its not great for the wood so it looks very pale at the moment but that will be sorted soon