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There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
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There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
PVA is nasty, horrible (well, maybe just unsuitable) stuff and I don't use it for anything on an instrument.
I use it for molds, or anything I know is going to be impermanent.
Titebond original is the stuff to use.
Studio: https://www.voltperoctave.com
Music: https://www.euclideancircuits.com
Me: https://www.jamesrichmond.com
By 'correctly', you need to use a traditional woodwork joint where the fit of the pieces provides the strength and the glue simply locks them into place, making all the forces on the glue layer pure shear and not peel forces. The same is true of traditional glues well, which is why woodworking joints were developed.
I learnt this the hard way in my early days as a repairer. I believed the 'stronger than the wood' claim, and indeed it does appear to be true initially, but if you leave the joint under constant peel load - like a typical headstock repair - it won't be long before it comes apart again.
No, it very much isn't. Titebond is an aliphatic resin not PVA, and doesn't suffer from this.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Still, every day is a school day and I'm happy to be educated on such things
There is no 'H' in Aych, you know that don't you? ~ Wife
Turns out there is an H in Haych! ~ Sporky
Bit of trading feedback here.
I like to use Gorilla glue to glue fretboards onto the neck.
I like super glue for any type of fret work or inlay work.
If I'm doing any type of restoration, I try to match the same type of glue that was used originally. This is typically hide glue.
I use hot hide glue only for neck joints and fretboards, it's not something most will use and it takes time to get used to it, main reason is zero creep and i can take it apart much easier if i want to
Acetone and binding shavings is good for sticking plastic bindings, it's cheaper for me than using uhu hart or ruderer l530 when building a few
Super glue for frets is good
(formerly customkits)
the green one is a little rubbery imo
I haven't come across anyone on the guitar-building forum I frequent that uses polyurethane glue (e.g. 'Gorilla') as it has zero gap-filling strength, is a bugger to clean up or undo.
Superglue for frets and inlays, though epoxy resin (e.g. Z-Poxy) also good for inlays, especially gap filling with a glue-sawdust mix.
I have not yet installed a plastic binding, so can't comment there.
Adam