Buying cars

John_P

i just sold mine today - I've had it 8 years so I'm a bit out of practise compared to buying guitars.  
Checking eBay, Facebook groups, gumtree, auto trader and getting a feel for prices.  
I feel like it's a bit of minefield - at the risk of asking obvious questions - I assume most ad's include a bit of haggle room (10%?).    I'm guessing eBay is just a shop window and no one buys direct 

Any tips from the experts for making it easy? 
If it makes any difference looking for a pickup - hilux/ isuzu etc under 10k.   

Foster

check the MOT history online of any car you look at - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history - it's free and covers from 2006 to present (in most cases).

For pickups i'd have a look at who owned it before, knowing the state of some of the pickups at work I know them to be utter deathtraps that have lead an incredibly rough life (I've had to drive one to the garage because 'the brakes don't work', that was a scary drive!)

Don't be scared of Ebay, I bought my van from there and i'm looking at another car on there tomorrow (with luck). But the same rules apply to any viewing of a car:

1 - Check EVERYTHING. Are there any signs of rust, do all the little switches work as they should, is there any signs of water inside the car, what does the engine bay look like (beware of very clean engine bays)
2 - Get on the floor and check under the vehicle, look for rust, worn parts, etc
3 - Touch the bonnet of the car before it's started, if it's warm then I'd walk away. If it's cold ask them to turn the engine on while you look at the exhaust - look for any smoke or shite coming from it on startup
4 - Testdrive it, don't buy anything unless you've driven it yourself
5 - Check the spare wheel and all the tools are there to get the bugger out (especially for a pickup, they're an arse to get out otherwise)
6 - Look for previous damage, do the panels line up (they should do), is there any signs of spraypaint touch ups (look for panels that have the texture of an orange peel)

Be prepared to walk away, if it looks too good to be true it probably is. 

Ask to look at all paperwork, if something looks odd then walk away.

Haggle like fuck - point out flaws and offer a low amount and be prepared to meet in the middle.

Almost forgot - when looking in the engine bay remove the oil filler cap, it should have signs of engine oil underneath but shouldn't have any signs of custard - that's a sign the engine is buggered. 

John_P

Thanks.    Lots of common sense there and things I used to do automatically.    
I suppose like buying guitar people can just say no to low offers.   

Foster

Exactly

I tend to treat every car seller as a lying bastard (I know they're not all bad), but if I'm going to drive there hunk of metal down the motorway I want to look for myself and make sure it's not going to kill me doing so.

If you're going to a dealer than they probably are lying bastards. If you want the vehicle and they don't go as low as you'd like, just scribble the price down on a bit of paper with your phonenumber and tell them to give you a ring if they're interested. Sometimes works well (especially at the end of the month when they want to have another car sold for commission purposes)

thomasross20

Check cabin noise over rough ground!
And the condition of the tyres (and that they're not 4 different makes!)... Mine has a nail in one which I'm sure was there initially but hard to spot if car is parked with nail touching the ground.

Electro_Ham

I actually just bought a pick up. A Mitsi L200 Diamond. I reckon they are actually expensive and I don't know if it's 'fashion' that's keeping the prices up. For your 10k I'd guess you won't get anything (worth buying) newer than, say, 2010.
We (it's really my wife's) paid 7K for a 57 plate. (advertised at £7999 IIRC) FSH.  The Diamond model has got all the toys, 165bhp, and this one also has a roof and windows over the load space. Private sale. It's the colour and model we wanted
A few things about our's, it's hard to reverse park, especially at night, with all the darkened privacy glass. We'll be adding a reverse camera soon. They are heavy on fuel if just driving around town. 34mpg on M-way though. They are slow as treacle - hence we opted for the 165bhp model.
We went for the L200 over all other pickups because we felt it ticked more boxes than any of the rest. Nissan have a lot of kit on board but the chassis splits. I read the L200 has a tighter turning circle than others.
Basically do your homework. Good luck. Check all of the 4WD is operating properly too.
 

randella

Probably less of an issue with a pickup, but possibly with more 'usual' commercials and certainly private cars:

Check the previous registered owner wasn't a hire company.  They use obfuscated names, and are worth a google - i.e. if you see 'ERAC ltd.' on the registration, it'll be Enterprise Rent-a-car.  All the companies use different ones.

There might be nothing inherently wrong with the car, but it'll pay you to know that it's been used on a hire fleet.

Electro_Ham

Forgot to say, as regards the pricing, pickups are around £30k new - roughly - today. You could get a Range Rover, Jaguar XJ or Mercedes E class which might be around £100k new today. Once those cars age 10 years, if the market is like it is today, they will all be around the same price. You get a greater 'bargain' with those 'prestige' cars. However, if something goes wrong with them.....

Electro_Ham

Also make sure the VAT has been paid on the Pickup.

Haych

Not all dealers are bar-stewards but they are obviously in it to get as much profit out the car as they can.

Be tough but not obnoxious and be prepared to walk away - the used car market is saturated and no matter how good a car might seem there will always be another.

Always best to be buying cars when you're not in a hurry too.  Having time to think things over helps you remain objective and avoid emotive impulse decisions or overlook small faults that are indicators of a less than great buy.

If you're serious about a car you can pay for the RAC or AA to check it over.  Obviously that adds to the cost but even if you don't it's a good idea to make those noises to the seller from the off in any case.  If the seller seems reticent to allow a professional inspection then alarm bells should ring and that alone would be enough to make me walk away.

If you're offered a warranty with the car make sure the terms are made clear to you, what's covered and up to what value.  Dealers hide behind a three month warranty but often they only cover the drivetrain and often, but depending on the age of the car, have a low repair value so if something does go wrong they might only cover the first few hundred quid. 

Even if the warranty seems pretty comprehensive it's worth checking the small print, often they cover full labour costs but only a percentage of the value of the parts required for any repair.

If you're buying from a dealer then you should get a fresh MoT ticket as condition of sale, if the car is old enough to need one.

Zoolooter

I would not buy if I didn't trust the person selling. I would have to know them personally. Had 3 cars which were meant to be in good order, history, etc, also low miles. Engine blew on one, ECU went on the other writing the car off, the last one just cost loads in repairs over time. Been driving what use to be my dad's car, Bought from new, properly serviced and looked after. It's 17 years old and runs perfectly, no problems in 2 years. After this one when the time comes I will lease. As long as you stay under about £240 a month for the lease it works out the same in depreciation etc if you were to buy. also wouldn't buy a desiel unless you really need one.

ESBlonde

Always make your (low) offer first, it anchors the perceived value in peoples minds and you negotiate from there. If they say £9k first you think that may be where the price will end up. If you say £7k first but then negotiate up to £8k you saved yourself a grand.

If you are going to a dealer check out some yootoob infotainers first to learn the skills and tricks they might use to manipulate you.

SteveRobinson

Electro_Ham said:

I actually just bought a pick up. A Mitsi L200 Diamond.

Did you buy it from Dave? His is an '07 
http://www.shuttleworths.co.uk/davetordoff/home.html

pintspiller

Foster said:

Touch the bonnet of the car before it's started, if it's warm then I'd walk away.

@Foster why's this?

(I am a numpty.)

hotpot

Electro_Ham said:

Also make sure the VAT has been paid on the Pickup.

Or if it's a Nissan Navara pick up check the chassis, Oh er missus!  https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/2791663/nissan-navara-safety-fears/

goldtop

pintspiller said:

Foster said:

Touch the bonnet of the car before it's started, if it's warm then I'd walk away.

@Foster why's this?

(I am a numpty.)

It's a trick many sellers use when they are trying to offload a car with 'issues' when starting from cold. Such as overly clattery engines, needing 3 or 4 attempts before it will start, lots of smoke after sitting, etc. The seller starts the car and gets it up to temperature - where it behaves properly - before you turn up.

But tell them you want to see it start from cold - don't just walk away - because there may be legit reasons why the bonnet is warm (they've just come back from shopping, etc).

Other tricks: having 'just' started to wash the car as you turn up. Leaving lots of water drops on the car. Result:harder to spot imperfections, dings and marks because of the water droplets.

John_P

Thanks chaps - had a look at a couple yesterday and visited a "dealer" or more correctly the place where trucks go to die - very funny hour spent with a fruitcake who sells mainly to farmers so every one had a dent or crack - never mind cleaning the outside, I'd have to use a pressure washer on the inside of some.      
So far I've walked away from all of them but having a look at another hilux this afternoon - I took a sneak look last night and it looks great so hopefully it drives good.    It used to belong to the fire service so the first few years should have excellent maintenance -  doesn't come with a ladder and hose though.