Pedal Switch Pop

DulcetJones

Any ideas how to stop my DIY clean booster from popping really loud when I step on the footswitch?  I've scoured the web and tried all of the tie down resister circuits I can find, nothing works and it's speaker ripping loud.  I'm using a dpdt switch and also tried putting a buffer ahead of it.  A search here didn't turn up any direct answers.  I really like the way it sounds once it's engaged but wow, the pop is bad, and I need to be switchable mid song for lots of our songs.

MrMusic

I suggest you run the pedal through a small loop switcher (Brightonion pedals) and use the switch on that loop to turn the pedal on or off, you can get them quite cheap with silent switches. I use this method to get rid of pops and noisey pedals in my chain

Adam_MD

try optical switching pedal parts do a board for it
You won't have anymore pops and the dpdt has a much smoother action than a 3pdt.  I fit it to any pedals I make as I can't stand 3pdt.

http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/OptoPuss_-_Optical_True_Bypass/p847124_17567620.aspx

Fuzzdog will sell you a full kit to do it including switch or you can you buy the board and source the other bits yourself.  

DulcetJones

Thanks MrMusic and Adam_MD ,  I'll check these both out, didn't see either anywhere else.

skunkwerx

I have a similar issue with a marshall regenerator, it pops when turning on or off, not noticeable at home levels but when the amps turned up a bit it is! 

Tried clicking it a few times to remove static, but that doesn't help. Guess its just a noisy switch!  

ICBM

skunkwerx said:

I have a similar issue with a marshall regenerator, it pops when turning on or off, not noticeable at home levels but when the amps turned up a bit it is! 

Tried clicking it a few times to remove static, but that doesn't help. Guess its just a noisy switch!  

No, it's most likely a DC leak - either from the pedal itself or from something else... eg the amp, if the pedal is last in line or there are only bypassed true bypass pedals after it, or another pedal.

'Clicking to remove static' is one of the most pointless things to do. (Not saying you're suggesting it - it is a depressingly common piece of advice though.) At best it just temporarily reduces the problem, at worst it knackers the switch.

You need to fit pull-down resistors or better decoupling caps (or both) to the culprit piece of equipment, or if it's the amp then changing the V1 valve will often work.

DulcetJones

ICBM said:

skunkwerx said:

I have a similar issue with a marshall regenerator, it pops when turning on or off, not noticeable at home levels but when the amps turned up a bit it is! 

Tried clicking it a few times to remove static, but that doesn't help. Guess its just a noisy switch!  

No, it's most likely a DC leak - either from the pedal itself or from something else... eg the amp, if the pedal is last in line or there are only bypassed true bypass pedals after it, or another pedal.

'Clicking to remove static' is one of the most pointless things to do. (Not saying you're suggesting it - it is a depressingly common piece of advice though.) At best it just temporarily reduces the problem, at worst it knackers the switch.

You need to fit pull-down resistors or better decoupling caps (or both) to the culprit piece of equipment, or if it's the amp then changing the V1 valve will often work.

In my case the amp is a new Katana 50(solid state) and the pop happens in my band mates amp as well.  Can you describe or post a schematic of the decoupling caps fix?  I have already tried pull down resistors on the input and output to no avail, but my search for a solution hasn't turned up anything involving caps. 

ICBM

When you say resistors on the input and output, where exactly do you mean? There is some bad advice going around that they need to be on the input and output jacks - this does nothing, they need to be on the input and output connections of the circuit itself.

If that is where they are already, it's possible that you need to upgrade the coupling caps (sometimes electrolytic) to non-electrolytic or if it's possible to get the same values, completely non-polar types.

Failing that, optical switching as mentioned by Adam_MD is probably the best option, or if all else fails/isn't practical, just run the whole lot via a Boss LS-2 Line Selector .

ecc83

Re coupling caps. Check the ACTUAL polarity of the voltage on the capacitors. Many companies ASSUME the IC will have a small offset voltage positive of chassis? This is not always the case. The NE5532 for instance with be NEG of chassis.

Dave.

DulcetJones

ICBM said:

When you say resistors on the input and output, where exactly do you mean? There is some bad advice going around that they need to be on the input and output jacks - this does nothing, they need to be on the input and output connections of the circuit itself.

If that is where they are already, it's possible that you need to upgrade the coupling caps (sometimes electrolytic) to non-electrolytic or if it's possible to get the same values, completely non-polar types.

Failing that, optical switching as mentioned by Adam_MD is probably the best option, or if all else fails/isn't practical, just run the whole lot via a Boss LS-2 Line Selector .

I followed Craig Andertons advice from "Electronic Projects For Musicians" and went from the input and output of the circuit board.    He calls for a 1M from input to ground and  a 100K from output to ground but this circuit isn't responding to it.    I'm actually considering replacing this booster circuit with a distortion circuit that I've experimented with in the past.  It  can supply a good clean boost with the distortion pot backed off to zero and doesn't pop when switched in and out.