String breakages and Graphtech string saver saddles

Drew_TNBD

I've had two low-E string breaks recently after having fresh strings. The saddle doesn't look worn or anything, but I'm wondering if the breakages could down down to the saddle??

Lestratcaster

Depends where the strings are breaking. Its common for them to break at the saddle. I had loads of issues with a Les Paul where I always broke strings at the saddle. Once I raised the height of the tailpiece it reduced the stress of the string angle against the bridge. Haven't had many (if any) breakages since.

Drew_TNBD

I literally never get string breakages though. Less than 5 in 10 years. Seriously.

Images:

gary_mac

As a matter of course, I tend to give these a little attention with a jewellers file or alternatively the finer grades of micromesh.

Emp_Fab

Since using Graphtecs, I've not had a single string break.  Those saddles look a bit like either the gauge is too big for the slot or you're doing some serious bending.  Either way, as gary_mac says, they could do with a bit of dressing.  Are you sure they're breaking at that point??  Seems odd for a graphite saddle.

guitarfishbay

I don't like the sound of the Graphtecs, and I don't have breakage problems anyway. It's subtle, but they're less snappy sounding and a bit smoother. I took mine off my strat pretty much straight away. Never considered buying another set 

Drew_TNBD

Emp_Fab said:

Since using Graphtecs, I've not had a single string break.  Those saddles look a bit like either the gauge is too big for the slot or you're doing some serious bending.  Either way, as gary_mac says, they could do with a bit of dressing.  Are you sure they're breaking at that point??  Seems odd for a graphite saddle.

Pretty sure, that's where the string snapped! Not had it since though. Might've just been a coincidence.

guitarfishbay said:

I don't like the sound of the Graphtecs, and I don't have breakage problems anyway. It's subtle, but they're less snappy sounding and a bit smoother. I took mine off my strat pretty much straight away. Never considered buying another set 

I think I agree. I would try putting my old ones back on, but I can't find them!!

I got the graphtecs because I thought it would help with tuning stability. No difference to be honest!

Funkfingers

The Graphtech TOM style saddles have a similar mellowing influence on tone to the old Gibson nylon saddles. This will enhance the sound on some guitars and detract on others.

The pre-cut notch in the saddle almost certainly started out with a slight fall off angle on the bevelled side. With the saddle reversed for intonation reasons, you need to dress the string slot angle to match.

In the photograph, it appears that the high E string just touches the back edge of the bridge on its way to the tailpiece. Ideally, the string should just clear that edge. If the low E string also touched the edge of the bridge, the kinking and additional stress may have contributed to premature breakage.

Drew_TNBD

Funkfingers said:

The Graphtech TOM style saddles have a similar mellowing influence on tone to the old Gibson nylon saddles. This will enhance the sound on some guitars and detract on others.

The pre-cut notch in the saddle almost certainly started out with a slight fall off angle on the bevelled side. With the saddle reversed for intonation reasons, you need to dress the string slot angle to match.

In the photograph, it appears that the high E string just touches the back edge of the bridge on its way to the tailpiece. Ideally, the string should just clear that edge. If the low E string also touched the edge of the bridge, the kinking and additional stress may have contributed to premature breakage.

Whaddaya know... you're right! My high-E does touch the back of the bridge. Never noticed that before! How do I address that??

ICBM

You don't - contrary to popular belief it doesn't matter.

On the low E, you've got the saddle in backwards, which I assume you know already. Looking at the positions of the A and D saddles I would be surprised if it's really necessary to reverse the E - just set it fully back with it the right way round.

guitars4you

first thing is to establish the exact point of break to eliminate some factors and determine others - Try cleaning the saddle slot were the screw goes - double sided emery cloth will be fine - just to clean, so a few to and fro movements, so it does not widen or deepen the gap - No knowing it works or not until the next string does or doesn't break - Break angle between bridge and tailpiece can come into play as well as does how hard you attack the strings - there are other factors that might come into play but look at this first

^^^^^^ from comment above with @Funkfingers - then just raise the tailpiece enough to minimise the break angle - only a tweak should be required

Drew_TNBD

ICBM said:

You don't - contrary to popular belief it doesn't matter.

On the low E, you've got the saddle in backwards, which I assume you know already. Looking at the positions of the A and D saddles I would be surprised if it's really necessary to reverse the E - just set it fully back with it the right way round.

No it's totally necessary. Can't get the low E (which is actually a low C) string intonated with it the "correct" way around.

ICBM

Drew_TNBD said:

No it's totally necessary. Can't get the low E (which is actually a low C) string intonated with it the "correct" way around.

Well if you will try to tune it like a bass…



In that case you'll probably need to shape the back edge of the saddle groove so it's less of a sharp angle.

guitarfishbay

I've flipped the E and G on my Les Paul (well, the B and the E) and I didn't even consider the break angle could be an issue.  I don't remember the last time I broke anything except a high E (well C#) that was too old and really needed replacing anyway

guitarfishbay

ICBM said:

You don't - contrary to popular belief it doesn't matter.

Not even for string bending?

Doesn't that increase the tension behind the saddle or am I not understanding it correctly?

ICBM

guitarfishbay said:

ICBM said:

You don't - contrary to popular belief it doesn't matter.

Not even for string bending?

Doesn't that increase the tension behind the saddle or am I not understanding it correctly?

A little contact like that on the top E makes no difference at all, and is very common because the saddle is a long way forward. It doesn't increase the tension - that's a function of the scale length, string gauge and tuning.

It became advised not to allow all the strings to press down hard on the back edge of the bridge when Gibson started making guitars with overly steep neck angles and poor quality bridges in the 1970s - if all the strings were touching it indicated a very steep break angle which could put a lot of pressure on the bridge and cause it to collapse. (I had a Les Paul Deluxe which did!)

But if you look at any tune-o-matic/string-through-body guitar, usually most or all the strings will be touching.

On a stoptail you can always lift the tailpiece to stop it, if you want - although for me personally, that spoils the tone on a Les Paul - I always prefer the stopbar tight down onto the body.

streethawk

if you want to deck the tailpiece and - despite having a slim abr frame - the strings are still touching the back of the bridge, your only other solution is to top wrap. Right? That's if it bothers you.

I'm with icbm on the breakage: dress the slot and see if it helps.